STS engines
03-16-2005 | 02:34 PM
#1501
Tech Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,811
From: lima-peru
Originally posted by ralliartlanevov
i have a sts .12 d5 engine... i got this used.... i was wonderin if any one kno wat the factory settin for the engine... im really confused rite now and need alot of help... i appericated if anyone can help me.... i check stsrc.com.tw but it doesnt show anything about carb settin
thanks
i have a sts .12 d5 engine... i got this used.... i was wonderin if any one kno wat the factory settin for the engine... im really confused rite now and need alot of help... i appericated if anyone can help me.... i check stsrc.com.tw but it doesnt show anything about carb settin
thanks
Low end needle 4 1/2 turns out
High speed neddle 3 /12 turns out
From there you must do your fine tuning according to your weather, pipe, clutch etc.etc.
AFM
03-16-2005 | 03:48 PM
#1502
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 221
From: Japan
I finished breakin on my sts .12 d5r last night. It is quite rich still and has yet to be fine tuned but is already screaming!
Many people were asking me about it. The acceleration needs tuning but when it clears out is almost as fast as the race tuned nova engines..... and this is spitting rich! Great engine and thanks for all your support.
Many people were asking me about it. The acceleration needs tuning but when it clears out is almost as fast as the race tuned nova engines..... and this is spitting rich! Great engine and thanks for all your support.
03-17-2005 | 06:17 PM
#1506
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,492
From: Auburn KS.
Hi everybody, I have a few questions. I just received my brand new D3R, and am getting ready for the break in process. Be aware that I am very new to nitro, and some of these questions may sound a little dumb.
1. I was unaware that there was not a plug included with the engine, and would like to know what you recommend, for break in process, and for running with 20% and 30% fuels?
2. Do you recommend disasembling the engine, and cleaning the internals before begining the break in process?
3. Should you be able to turn the engine over by hand? I can turn it to the top of the stroke, and then it feels like it is locked.
4. Should a lower nitro percentage be used during break in, or should you use 20% or 30%, as you would be racing with?
5. Should any oil, be placed in engine before turning over for the first time, or do you just put fuel in the tank and crank it?
I think thats about it for now, Thanks!
1. I was unaware that there was not a plug included with the engine, and would like to know what you recommend, for break in process, and for running with 20% and 30% fuels?
2. Do you recommend disasembling the engine, and cleaning the internals before begining the break in process?
3. Should you be able to turn the engine over by hand? I can turn it to the top of the stroke, and then it feels like it is locked.
4. Should a lower nitro percentage be used during break in, or should you use 20% or 30%, as you would be racing with?
5. Should any oil, be placed in engine before turning over for the first time, or do you just put fuel in the tank and crank it?
I think thats about it for now, Thanks!
03-17-2005 | 06:23 PM
#1507
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,588
From: Fujiwara ToFu Shop
Originally posted by rcosmax
I finished breakin on my sts .12 d5r last night. It is quite rich still and has yet to be fine tuned but is already screaming! Many people were asking me about it. The acceleration needs tuning but when it clears out is almost as fast as the race tuned nova engines..... and this is spitting rich! Great engine and thanks for all your support.
I finished breakin on my sts .12 d5r last night. It is quite rich still and has yet to be fine tuned but is already screaming!
Many people were asking me about it. The acceleration needs tuning but when it clears out is almost as fast as the race tuned nova engines..... and this is spitting rich! Great engine and thanks for all your support.
03-17-2005 | 06:28 PM
#1508
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,588
From: Fujiwara ToFu Shop
Re: D5R moded internals
Originally posted by noobatron
Hey guys,
recently i brought brand new D5R internals including Piston, Liner, the new silicon crank, front bearing and all 3 (version 2) needles. The crank has had it's timing moded by ProjectZen.
So this will make it faster than standard D5R.
However, due to the closure of my local circuit and work commitments, i'm not going to be able to reap the performance benefits from these. I'm putting all my RC gear up for sale on ebay but wll be offering this here if anyone is interested.
Items BNIP, i payed a fair bit for them so my loss is your gain
$100US
Hey guys,
recently i brought brand new D5R internals including Piston, Liner, the new silicon crank, front bearing and all 3 (version 2) needles. The crank has had it's timing moded by ProjectZen.
So this will make it faster than standard D5R.
However, due to the closure of my local circuit and work commitments, i'm not going to be able to reap the performance benefits from these. I'm putting all my RC gear up for sale on ebay but wll be offering this here if anyone is interested.
Items BNIP, i payed a fair bit for them so my loss is your gain
$100US
Thanks
03-17-2005 | 07:14 PM
#1509
Originally posted by porter
Hi everybody, I have a few questions. I just received my brand new D3R, and am getting ready for the break in process. Be aware that I am very new to nitro, and some of these questions may sound a little dumb.
1. I was unaware that there was not a plug included with the engine, and would like to know what you recommend, for break in process, and for running with 20% and 30% fuels?
2. Do you recommend disasembling the engine, and cleaning the internals before begining the break in process?
3. Should you be able to turn the engine over by hand? I can turn it to the top of the stroke, and then it feels like it is locked.
4. Should a lower nitro percentage be used during break in, or should you use 20% or 30%, as you would be racing with?
5. Should any oil, be placed in engine before turning over for the first time, or do you just put fuel in the tank and crank it?
I think thats about it for now, Thanks!
Hi everybody, I have a few questions. I just received my brand new D3R, and am getting ready for the break in process. Be aware that I am very new to nitro, and some of these questions may sound a little dumb.
1. I was unaware that there was not a plug included with the engine, and would like to know what you recommend, for break in process, and for running with 20% and 30% fuels?
2. Do you recommend disasembling the engine, and cleaning the internals before begining the break in process?
3. Should you be able to turn the engine over by hand? I can turn it to the top of the stroke, and then it feels like it is locked.
4. Should a lower nitro percentage be used during break in, or should you use 20% or 30%, as you would be racing with?
5. Should any oil, be placed in engine before turning over for the first time, or do you just put fuel in the tank and crank it?
I think thats about it for now, Thanks!
03-17-2005 | 07:18 PM
#1510
Re: Re: D5R moded internals
Originally posted by BundyMan
Where to get these silicon crankshaft by ProjectZen???
Thanks
Where to get these silicon crankshaft by ProjectZen???
Thanks
or do it your self or through AFM he is another distributor
03-17-2005 | 08:23 PM
#1512
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 221
From: Japan
My d5r has no bearing leakage.
I used the breakin method outlined on the second page of the thread.
I took the engine apart and coated everything with afterrun and made sure the bearings got a good shot of oil. Heated the engine up with a heat gun to make 1st start easier. Installed a hot plug. turned the crank so that piston was just after tdc and it fired up right away 1st try. For the first tank on the starter box even very rich the engine heats up quickly because of the hard piston and tight pinch. Really keep an eye on it the first couple of tanks. and shut it down when it hits the temp outlined in the breakin instruction. move piston to bdc and let cool completely and repeate as per instructions. I am now just shy of 2 liters and the piston sleeve pinch has relaxed enough for the engine to spool up at the rich settings. I am slowly starting to tune it for performance. When I get close to optimal tune ill change the rod and pin and then race tune.
1 question. Dino what shimms do you recomend for 30% fuel in the d5r? Im in japan so probably similar air conditions as you have.
I used the breakin method outlined on the second page of the thread.
I took the engine apart and coated everything with afterrun and made sure the bearings got a good shot of oil. Heated the engine up with a heat gun to make 1st start easier. Installed a hot plug. turned the crank so that piston was just after tdc and it fired up right away 1st try. For the first tank on the starter box even very rich the engine heats up quickly because of the hard piston and tight pinch. Really keep an eye on it the first couple of tanks. and shut it down when it hits the temp outlined in the breakin instruction. move piston to bdc and let cool completely and repeate as per instructions. I am now just shy of 2 liters and the piston sleeve pinch has relaxed enough for the engine to spool up at the rich settings. I am slowly starting to tune it for performance. When I get close to optimal tune ill change the rod and pin and then race tune.
1 question. Dino what shimms do you recomend for 30% fuel in the d5r? Im in japan so probably similar air conditions as you have.
03-17-2005 | 09:52 PM
#1514
im so bored now..working but not working on something...just watching Astro and in front of this Streamyx capable pc.
so here is the break-in procedure by our STS king himself...yalor Dino lor.
The new sleeve and piston set is very tight. It will let the rod have to take a very big stress during breaking in. And make the bushing worn fast even break if you make the rpm too high. So don't make the rpm too high when the sleeve and piston still tight. The most important thing is let everybody know that when the break-in process through. Then they just know when they can lean it to their heart's content.
We have ever changed the conrods production-line to make the bushing more thicker. So all the newest Dragon have upgraded conrods. I prefer to let every customer know what can be happened rather than hide them. Maybe my way make you worry. But to my consumer viewpoint(I'm still a customer to other manufactories ),I rather know every truth if they can tell me in advance.
Read the Instruction Manual,
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
1. Install a new glow-plug (Hotter rated plugs will be better for the rich settings used during break-in)
2. Use normal fuel, 5%~15% nitro is best.
3. First tank of fuel: Start your engine, idle for 2 minutes then stop and let it cool down. Whenever you stop the motor please ensure, by rotating the flywheel by hand (careful it can be hot), that the piston is NOT at Top Dead Center (TDC), let cool. Repeat the "start-idle cycle" 6 to 8 times. If idle rpm is too high, adjust the slow needle. Make sure the temperature is under 80C (176F), it is good if some raw fuel is spitting from the exhaust.
PS:This way we call it cold run in. The piston expand when hot and shrink whan cold down. This way let piston adapt the change of temperature and also let the piston get tempered and the correct clearances. If you have done the "start-idle cycle",you will find the engine is more easy to break-in.
Idling a engine can let it clean itself without hurt(least) if there is any internal impurities. So I usual let my engine idle for a while if I have ever opened it. All parts need run in for a while including conrod;bearings;crank...etc. So if I change any part I will let it idle for a while,too. Any engine needs warm up a while after started. One is for hot expand another reason is for lubrication. So don't full throttle when the engine still cold...
4. Next several tanks of fuel: run the car on the track at low speed (50% to 80% throttle). Avoid using a constant throttle position; keep blipping the throttle to vary the rpm, slow-fast-slow-fast etc. Check the temperature regularly and keep it between 80 oC (176 F) and 100 oC (212 F), if you can not measure temps make sure smoke is always being generated out the tuned pipe.
PS.This way we call it hot run in. Avoid using a constant throttle position let piston can be rubbed on all sides. During this step,the temperature control and rpm control are very important. If you make the rpm too high,you will find some vertical lines on the sleeve internal. It is not caused by some dirts enter your engine,and it may make the engine lose some compression. Temperature control for sure your engine have enough lubrication.
5. After about 1~2 liter fuel through it, take out the glow plug and turn the flywheel by hand, let the piston pass the top dead center in the sleeve. When you don't have any significant friction or just a little snug, you can start leaning the main needle incrementally in small steps, and keep it around 100~120 oC (212~248 F).
PS.Yes,you need about 1~2 liter fuel through for sure that you can start to lean it. STS's piston is harder than Novas. If you have more patience to break in our engine,you will find our engine more lasting. Mine D3 borrowed to my racer for racing last weekend,he still win the A-champion. In fact I got that engine about half year ago.(practice plus 4 times races) I guessed about 4 gallons through it already. But still have unbelievable compression.
I have a special way to check the break-in. Put a white tissue outside of the tail pipe. Let the smoke spray on it and open the throttle a bit. If you can't find any impurity but only oil,that means your engine is clean and no more fine metal particles out.
After break-in process,I will take apart it thorough. First I will check the con. rod bushings and pins. If there is a play,I will replace with new parts. Then I will check the bearing and crankpin. If there is any play,I prefer to spend some money to replace with new parts. I don't want to bet with full engine life and guess it still ok. In my opinion,I spend valuable time to run it a engine or you can say I bring it up like a pet. He/she have to work hard for me,I don't want he/she feel any uncomfortable. Have you ever run with a over-size shoes? Yes,it dose uncomfortable and maybe you will fall down.
About the engine operating temperature I want to do some additional remarks.
20-30C max about 120C (68-86F max 248F)
10-20C max about 100C (50-68F max 212F)
0-10C max about 80C (32-50F max 176F)
About under 0C??? Sorry I have no chance to do the test.
With Lola body,the engine should run colder because heat leave fast.
A working fine engine can drink all of the fuel in the tank and keep stable temperature;stable idle;never singing. When you feel the engine not fast enough but working fine,first thing you should think about is ....
1)If the tyres stick?or the track is clean without many sand?
2)If you should change the gear ratio?
3)If the clutch is ok?
4)If the transmission or bearing smooth?
5)The last way is to lean a bit your engine.
so here is the break-in procedure by our STS king himself...yalor Dino lor.
The new sleeve and piston set is very tight. It will let the rod have to take a very big stress during breaking in. And make the bushing worn fast even break if you make the rpm too high. So don't make the rpm too high when the sleeve and piston still tight. The most important thing is let everybody know that when the break-in process through. Then they just know when they can lean it to their heart's content.
We have ever changed the conrods production-line to make the bushing more thicker. So all the newest Dragon have upgraded conrods. I prefer to let every customer know what can be happened rather than hide them. Maybe my way make you worry. But to my consumer viewpoint(I'm still a customer to other manufactories ),I rather know every truth if they can tell me in advance.
Read the Instruction Manual,
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
1. Install a new glow-plug (Hotter rated plugs will be better for the rich settings used during break-in)
2. Use normal fuel, 5%~15% nitro is best.
3. First tank of fuel: Start your engine, idle for 2 minutes then stop and let it cool down. Whenever you stop the motor please ensure, by rotating the flywheel by hand (careful it can be hot), that the piston is NOT at Top Dead Center (TDC), let cool. Repeat the "start-idle cycle" 6 to 8 times. If idle rpm is too high, adjust the slow needle. Make sure the temperature is under 80C (176F), it is good if some raw fuel is spitting from the exhaust.
PS:This way we call it cold run in. The piston expand when hot and shrink whan cold down. This way let piston adapt the change of temperature and also let the piston get tempered and the correct clearances. If you have done the "start-idle cycle",you will find the engine is more easy to break-in.
Idling a engine can let it clean itself without hurt(least) if there is any internal impurities. So I usual let my engine idle for a while if I have ever opened it. All parts need run in for a while including conrod;bearings;crank...etc. So if I change any part I will let it idle for a while,too. Any engine needs warm up a while after started. One is for hot expand another reason is for lubrication. So don't full throttle when the engine still cold...
4. Next several tanks of fuel: run the car on the track at low speed (50% to 80% throttle). Avoid using a constant throttle position; keep blipping the throttle to vary the rpm, slow-fast-slow-fast etc. Check the temperature regularly and keep it between 80 oC (176 F) and 100 oC (212 F), if you can not measure temps make sure smoke is always being generated out the tuned pipe.
PS.This way we call it hot run in. Avoid using a constant throttle position let piston can be rubbed on all sides. During this step,the temperature control and rpm control are very important. If you make the rpm too high,you will find some vertical lines on the sleeve internal. It is not caused by some dirts enter your engine,and it may make the engine lose some compression. Temperature control for sure your engine have enough lubrication.
5. After about 1~2 liter fuel through it, take out the glow plug and turn the flywheel by hand, let the piston pass the top dead center in the sleeve. When you don't have any significant friction or just a little snug, you can start leaning the main needle incrementally in small steps, and keep it around 100~120 oC (212~248 F).
PS.Yes,you need about 1~2 liter fuel through for sure that you can start to lean it. STS's piston is harder than Novas. If you have more patience to break in our engine,you will find our engine more lasting. Mine D3 borrowed to my racer for racing last weekend,he still win the A-champion. In fact I got that engine about half year ago.(practice plus 4 times races) I guessed about 4 gallons through it already. But still have unbelievable compression.
I have a special way to check the break-in. Put a white tissue outside of the tail pipe. Let the smoke spray on it and open the throttle a bit. If you can't find any impurity but only oil,that means your engine is clean and no more fine metal particles out.
After break-in process,I will take apart it thorough. First I will check the con. rod bushings and pins. If there is a play,I will replace with new parts. Then I will check the bearing and crankpin. If there is any play,I prefer to spend some money to replace with new parts. I don't want to bet with full engine life and guess it still ok. In my opinion,I spend valuable time to run it a engine or you can say I bring it up like a pet. He/she have to work hard for me,I don't want he/she feel any uncomfortable. Have you ever run with a over-size shoes? Yes,it dose uncomfortable and maybe you will fall down.
About the engine operating temperature I want to do some additional remarks.
20-30C max about 120C (68-86F max 248F)
10-20C max about 100C (50-68F max 212F)
0-10C max about 80C (32-50F max 176F)
About under 0C??? Sorry I have no chance to do the test.
With Lola body,the engine should run colder because heat leave fast.
A working fine engine can drink all of the fuel in the tank and keep stable temperature;stable idle;never singing. When you feel the engine not fast enough but working fine,first thing you should think about is ....
1)If the tyres stick?or the track is clean without many sand?
2)If you should change the gear ratio?
3)If the clutch is ok?
4)If the transmission or bearing smooth?
5)The last way is to lean a bit your engine.
03-17-2005 | 09:57 PM
#1515
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 221
From: Japan
I run an tuned IDM .12 nova based engine as my racing engine. It is jumpy and really sensitive. Lots of power but there are few days when I run straight through with a smile. A p/s/r set for idm costs more than a new sts d5r and pipe set! Not to mention the microcast pistons have a short life. The sts will replace it no problems. It is in my rrr right now and I have no intention of changing back to the idm. The sts idles smooth and is just as fast, in fact, fast enough on breakin that all the other drivers at the track running novas were asking about it. I cant comment on how it is race tuned yet because it is still rich! Even rich it is there with the novas once it clears out.