R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road > Onroad Nitro Engine Zone

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-21-2008, 11:32 AM   #331
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,861
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Richen the top end just a bit until the hesitation goes away. Then, if it seems a little rich through the infield, lean the bottom until it clears out. You may have to lower the idle after doing all that.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2008, 10:37 PM   #332
Tech Adept
 
CH Hobbies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 212
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xspower View Post
You need to check if there are any leaks around the carb or engine. Once you are sure that you have a good sealed engine. Then you may want to check the needles by removing them and checking for any dirt or something on the needle or in the hsn tube. Just make a reference to where the needles were originally and you should be fine. Make sure that the oring seals are good on the needles.
Thank you for the info, but both the engine has the identical problems, we have checked either the leak or the needle oring but problem remain.
The engine runs pretty well before half tank of fuel but after that the bogging issue coming back than we checked the temperature is only 120 degree celcius which is the normal running temp. By the way we are running the engine on the 960 , we have already no clue ?? is it the engine problem or the clutch setting? But we use nova base engine on the 960 with no bogging issue with the same clutch setting +- on gap clearance.

Thank you and appreciated for all your help.. wondering if any people have the same issue with the IDM EVO3, Email to Daniel already but not yet reply
CH Hobbies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2008, 01:40 AM   #333
M7H
Tech Elite
 
M7H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,196
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CH Hobbies View Post
is it the engine problem or the clutch setting?
Try to tighten the clutch a little bit, so it engages just a little bit later....
This might do the job...
__________________
Serpent
M7H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2008, 04:44 AM   #334
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 498
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CH Hobbies View Post
Thank you for the info, but both the engine has the identical problems, we have checked either the leak or the needle oring but problem remain.
The engine runs pretty well before half tank of fuel but after that the bogging issue coming back than we checked the temperature is only 120 degree celcius which is the normal running temp. By the way we are running the engine on the 960 , we have already no clue ?? is it the engine problem or the clutch setting? But we use nova base engine on the 960 with no bogging issue with the same clutch setting +- on gap clearance.

Thank you and appreciated for all your help.. wondering if any people have the same issue with the IDM EVO3, Email to Daniel already but not yet reply

Like M7 says I would make the clutch hit harder. Sounds to me that with the temp the engine is working ok. It is not that lean on the bottom or it would want to overheat. I would go and work with the clutch some more. You really cannot run the clutch the same as a Nova. I would run like .5 for the clutch gap and maybe even .6. But work with the flyweights and also the spring. Let the clutch hit hard and see if it comes off the corner better. Also are you using a 2033 pipeset are you allowed over there. The wrong pipe will also cause this as well. Or are you running the new pipeset.
xspower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2008, 10:26 AM   #335
M7H
Tech Elite
 
M7H's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,196
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xspower View Post
I would run like .5 for the clutch gap and maybe even .6.
With the Serpent clutch you should even go to a gap of .7 or .8

As the angle of the flywheel is different then a Mugen flywheel, the gap setting is different....
__________________
Serpent
M7H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2008, 04:43 PM   #336
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 516
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CH Hobbies View Post
Hi All,

I recently bought 2 21 IDM EVO3 engine and have problem to tuned it right,
The problem is when we apply full throttle on the straight and off throttle into the corner but when apply throttle back the engine tent to bogging which seem like not enough fuel get in the engine, which mean we need to off throttle
again and reapply on throttle and the engine pick up again. we have try to remove the head shim to increase pressure but the problem is still the same, we have tried all the clutch setting but the problem remain.

Appreciated if anyone can help.

Thanx
I'm not sure if this will help, but...

I ran my EVO3 IDM for the first time this past weekend. I had a similar issue (and also tried different clutch settings). In the final qualifier the motor was tuned to around 210+f (when going out), and it got a little soft off the corners almost right away. We spent the remainder of the qualifier experimenting with it. I finally had the pitman put the temp gun down and just richen it until it was too rich, and went forward from there. Ended up back at 190f (88c).

The solution to my problem seemed to be that the motor likes to run under 200f. It had BIG hp there, yet running over 5 minutes with fuel to spare. I'm super happy with mine.
jpeck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2008, 06:04 PM   #337
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 498
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpeck View Post
I'm not sure if this will help, but...

I ran my EVO3 IDM for the first time this past weekend. I had a similar issue (and also tried different clutch settings). In the final qualifier the motor was tuned to around 210+f (when going out), and it got a little soft off the corners almost right away. We spent the remainder of the qualifier experimenting with it. I finally had the pitman put the temp gun down and just richen it until it was too rich, and went forward from there. Ended up back at 190f (88c).

The solution to my problem seemed to be that the motor likes to run under 200f. It had BIG hp there, yet running over 5 minutes with fuel to spare. I'm super happy with mine.
Hey I wonder why the engine is good?!
xspower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 05:19 PM   #338
Tech Master
 
helivaguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,220
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default IDM PICCO P7 EVO 3 .21 onroad

does anyone know the factory needle settings for this mill?
having idle issues,when off the throttle and barrel closes the idle sticks or revs then eventually drops,this is with radio on and off so theres nothing sticking or bindind.
maybe the lsn is rich?
helivaguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 06:16 PM   #339
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 498
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

The base if you would like to say would be to set the top needle at slightly about flush with the body and then the low should be about 2-3mm protruding out from the edge of the linkage bracket on the slide. this will be real rich on the bottom. I just do not want to say anything less so that you can get the engine running good where you are located.
xspower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2008, 06:44 PM   #340
Tech Master
 
helivaguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,220
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default

ok thanks,
i got it running and the hsn is about flush and the low side is barely protuding out the barrell,seems good now but still need to run more fuel to see if it will act up.
by the way this engine is a real screamer! holy cow!!

which pipe is recommened for this idm p7 evo 3?
im looking for mid-topend for a very large open track.
will a sirio 2013 do?

Last edited by helivaguy; 10-04-2008 at 01:05 PM.
helivaguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2008, 06:00 AM   #341
Tech Adept
 
CH Hobbies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 212
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi all,

Thank you for all the answer and helps for the bogging issue of the IDM Evo3 .21, We have finally solved the bogging issue for this engine, After we have tried so many solution like tuning, clutch setting, head shim + and -, plug and fuel etc etc.....

The answer and the only solution the get rid of the bogging is related to the clutch system depending on what car are you on it, for us serpent 960 we have to cut the 3 pcs of centrifugal shoe without insert the shoe into the flywheel pin but just to lay in there between the pins which to make the centax to engage or disengage faster when rpm is reduce.. by this will eliminate the bogging issue. Serpent owner also can use the optional parts (Ser 903199). Good luck and happy racing.

By the way....
Our clutch setting for 960 is .6mm gap, .1mm clearance, 1.8mm spring preload with hard long spring.
CH Hobbies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2008, 07:40 AM   #342
Tech Addict
 
NitroWD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 622
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

seems like i have a similar 'bog' issue as CH Hobbies with my IDM .12 evo3.

my IDM cant hold a steady idle for >5secs; it'll die off...
on the starterbox, if i off throttle and on throttle before it dies off, it'll bog.
however if i off throttle and immediately on throttle, it'll be fine!

track testing found similar issues, parts of the track where i got to off throttle for 2s or more; it'll bog when i on throttle back.

my LSN too rich?
__________________
* Earth's fate depends on what we do TODAY... *
+ Earth got all the time in the world; but we DON'T... +
NitroWD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2008, 08:18 AM   #343
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,276
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroWD View Post
seems like i have a similar 'bog' issue as CH Hobbies with my IDM .12 evo3.

my IDM cant hold a steady idle for >5secs; it'll die off...
on the starterbox, if i off throttle and on throttle before it dies off, it'll bog.
however if i off throttle and immediately on throttle, it'll be fine!

track testing found similar issues, parts of the track where i got to off throttle for 2s or more; it'll bog when i on throttle back.

my LSN too rich?
If it bogs with smoke it is rich, except if you are way too rich then it will just spill some oil and die before it can burn everything in the case. I don't think I've ever seen a lean LSN die after a short time, so I think you are safe to go in at least half a turn because small steps are not going to be enough.
__________________
Support those that support us

https://ActivRC.com http://TeamPowersUSA.net https://www.1upracing.com/ http://TeamAssociated.com
Brian Bosley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2008, 08:02 AM   #344
Tech Master
 
helivaguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,220
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)
Default IDM lsn

still having issues with the idle hanging with my IDM p7/p9 Evo3 .21.
the hsn is flush and the lsn is about 1 turn out from flush,on the starterbox i can set the lsn and idle screw and the idle will be nice and low and idle beautiful with good acceleration(i do the pinch test and how long it will idle method)but when actually running it and come off the throttle it will hang most of the time and i have to brake the throttle trigger to get it to drop its almost like there is a binding but there isnt because i try it bothways manual and via transmitter w/radio on and off.
the acceleration is crisp and strong with good smoke and oil mist out the stinger,i am using both the idm t7 and os p7 glowplugs with byrons gen2 20%.
i have also tried different clutch setups and diferent tuned pipes and the front bearing has no leak from what i see and when i stall the engine with my finger over the carb she dies instantly so i would think no vacuum leaks.
i have even compltely dissasembled the engine along with the carb and everything still looks brand spanking new.
ps this engine used to belong to 1/8 on road racer arron buren when i got it it had just under 1 gallon including break-in.
it just acts like the lsn is rich and the idle screw is open to far.
any help is appreciated.
helivaguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2008, 09:48 AM   #345
Tech Regular
 
Kurly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Chicago, Il
Posts: 251
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

These motors like alot of fuel on the bottom end. Sounds like your still too lean on the bottom. I know my motor, on the bottom screw, I have about 2mm of the screw out on the case. My top needle is a pinch inside the case. If your pinch testing count to about 6. Should get you closer. Let me know....
__________________
L2Kracing, LeisureHours Hobbies & Raceway
Gizmo Racing USA, ARC USA, Motiv RC.
Kurly is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
CEN Products SCOOTER29 Rookie Zone 9 09-22-2005 01:57 AM
cen products chifan26 Nitro On-Road 7 09-19-2005 02:50 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:16 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net