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Old 06-24-2007, 10:18 AM   #136
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Originally Posted by TomB View Post
hmmm. as i was breaking in my engine i found i had the same problem, and even after break in it did the same thing. i put myt issues down to the fact i was using a number 6 LRP plug, wereas with my os v spec i used a OS number 3.

try your plug, and go to a hotter one (at your own risk of course!, make sure the plug is suitable to the ambient conditions).

i found when i was waiting on the line of the start of a race the car bogged down by a hell of alot. Again though the engine was new, but i will be attempting to tune it this week, and get back to you and report if i have similar issues.

i will be sealing up the car boot (or buying a OS .21 boot and also sealing up, just to be sure) and i will use a number 3 OS plug. as opposed to your issues, once my engine got going it seemed fine, but did sound rather eratic going off jumps, but i put this down to a new engine and a bad tune but who knows. my engine is also still very tight, so i was putting down the tune issues to the fact the engine was new. is your engine still ocking up on the box?
I have tried a p-3 and p-7 plugs (turbo) the p-3 popped when it leaned out when the tank was almost empty.

I will be going thru and sealing up the boot and carb today to see it that helps any.

The engine is still tight, but I have a high torque duel motor starter box, so it turns over just fine.
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Old 06-24-2007, 12:38 PM   #137
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Does anyone know the factory setting on the hsn and lsn of the 7 port carb?
or what is a good setting to start with. And what the idle air gap should be.
Thanks
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Old 06-24-2007, 10:44 PM   #138
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Didi this all depends on your fuel and pipe .. Rough standard settings IMO would be

3 turns out HSN Idle gap 1mm , LSN half way across the throat when at WOT

Have you checked your tank and pressure lines for leaks .. and have you checked your HSN for any debris ..

Whats the total content of your fuel ?

We use the LRP #6 with no issues at all in turbo and GO Tech # 5 in STD .

When i started to tune my Go Tech ( mind you i have the new 2 needle carb ) I leaned it out for performance on HSN then tuned the LSN to give me a 3 second kill when i pinch the tube and i always tuned from half tank , never from full tank

Im betting you may have an air leak and a tune thats out of whack. You may also have a high oil content to deal with ,...
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:06 AM   #139
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I have been trying to tune my GO-7+2 mod with no luck. It has a 3 needle carb. My problem is that when cold it is hard to start, so I have to lean it out to get it to Stay running.
After it warms up, I have to richen it back up to gain power. Once warm And I re-fuel it, it runs way rich with no power and as the tank runs half empty it starts running full power. Then as the tank gets empty I start to loose power again.
I can not keep it in tune. I seem to fight it the whole tank of fuel. Itís been like this from new. I have about ĺ gal of 25% thru it now and still fighting this problem.

The lsn I have way out almost too where the seal is showing or it idles way to lean. The hsn is almost flush; I never touched the midd range needle. This is getting very discouraging to try and race when the motor will not tune.
dido your problem is definitely your carb. Sounds like you have a problematic carb. Chuck the carb, either buy a new one from Mark or put on an OS carb. Your problem will be history.
Good luck mate.
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Old 06-25-2007, 04:18 PM   #140
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After taking the carb off I noticed the air gap was less then .400mm I then took it all apart for cleaning. I did not find any dirt or obstructions. The boot is tight; I did add silicone when I put the carb back on. I put 1.5mm air gap turned out the hsn 4 Ĺ turns the
lsn 3 turns. When it stops raining I will see what that does. I was reading an interesting post on tuning a motor and it seems I have been doing it all wrong. Here is the post I was reading on tuning motors. Does this make sence with the go motor?


For what it is worth here is my .02.............

There are hundreds of posts like this one all over the net. One of the most important things in the posts that follow is most always left out. This would be the Air gap/idle setting on the carb slide. You can’t tune an engine if this is not set right. In order to tune an engine properly this gap should be set to somewhere between 1.0mm to 1.5mm no more or less than that to start. There is a specific ratio to fuel & air mixture that these engines are designed to run at. Once the engine is tuned properly you can fine tune the idle some. Most of the time when this gap is set too small you will be running too lean on the bottom. This is because to get a nice idle with it that small you will have to lean it out or your idle will be to low. Also most of the time when this gap is set too big you will be fat on the bottom. This is because to get a nice idle you will have to richen it up or your idle will be too high. I keep a 1.5mm drill bit in my pit box to set this gap. Once this gap is set correctly fire the engine up and get it running good enough to put it on the track. Then run some hot laps to get some temp in it and bring it in and richen the top end to the point where it is not clearing out on the straights, this way you know it is fat for sure. Once you have done this start leaning the top end out to where it is just clearing out on the straights. After this bring it in to get the low end set close. When you do this pay attention to how the car comes in after being wide open on the straight. If the car went out on the track when you first put it down with a decent idle but is coming back in with a high idle for a while (8+ sec) and then settles back down then chances are you are too fat on the bottom. If this is so then lean the bottom out an hour until when it comes back in it stays high. Once you have done this you can set the idle/air gap to get the idle you are after, it won’t be much. (Once I have found this I will usually fatten the low end about an hour or so just to make sure) If when you are out running you hot laps you start to bog coming out of the corners and don’t see a good smoke trail chances are you are too lean on the bottom. Fatten the bottom until it is not lean bogging coming out of the corners, has a nice smoke trail and you have the power you are after on the low end. If this is the case and the idle is now too low bring the idle up using the air gap/idle screw, again it won’t be much. Once you get the low end set go back and re-tune the top end for performance with a good smoke trail.

try not to use the temp gun too much. If after tuning for performance and you have a good smoke trail coming out of all the corners and your engine is running 280, let it!

Setting your nitro engine up that way is almost fool proof once you get it down. The other thing that is cool is this! Let’s say I have found the perfect tune on race day and then go out next week to race and the tune is a little off. What this tells me is my surroundings have changed i.e. temp, humidity and such. Let’s say after running my engine for a little bit I notice that the idle is a little high. What this tells me is the engine is now running a little lean due to changes in atmospheric conditions i.e. air temp & humidity. Most people at this point would simply turn the idle screw a bit to bring the idle down some. Buy doing this yes the idle will come down but chances are you are still running lean! The better thing to do would be to fatten up the low end some to bring the idle down. This will maintain the correct air gap on the carb slide and air/fuel mixture and you won't be running lean for the day. If you noticed that your engine is idling a little low at the start of a new day then the opposite would be true i.e. you would be a little fat on the bottom. If this is the case then lean out the bottom a little until the idle comes back to where you want and fine tune from there. Also now that you know that you were either a little lean or fat on the bottom chances are you are a little lean or fat on the top end for that day. So take a look at the top end after setting the bottom. If I have a day like this I will set the top again to where I know its rich i.e. not cleaning out on the straights and re-tune from there.

I hope all this makes sence to those that are reading, I felt is was hard to put all this into words.

Last edited by dido41; 06-26-2007 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 06-25-2007, 11:09 PM   #141
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Some Engines will run fine with a smaller apparent gap , please realise that sometimes the Gap is covered by the taper of the intake cone .. this is particualarly true with .12 size engines so just bear that in mind when setting idle gap

cheers MM

PS Good luck with it Dido keep us posted on how you go
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Old 06-25-2007, 11:57 PM   #142
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Weve had several issues in the beginning with Go carbs. I email Russ and he found a similar issue. This was his reply

"I have kept my eye out for the carb problem you mentioned, I recently had a customer who could not get his engine to work right at all and it seemed to lean bog or show signs of an air leak after everything was sealed properly. The customer sent the engine back to me and i pressure tested the car (new style carb) it seems that the seam where the alumn. butts into the plastic carb body was leaking seriously. I sealed it up with something we have over here called jb weld, any carb sealer should do. pressure tested the carb again and there was no air leaking anywhere with the carb. I put the engine in my buggy and took it to a parking lot to get a tune on it. The engine was way off tune but when i got it in tune it was running great, idling very consistent and running very strong. I don't know if this is your problem as well but it is definately worth looking into.

To pressure test the carb i took it off the engine and got some new fuel tubing i then attached the fuel tubing and placed my fingers over the main carb openings and dunked the carb under water. I then blew into the fuel tubing and looked for air bubbles. I think this would be worth a try for you guys to test with the new carb hopefully it will solve all the problems that you have had with it. Let me know how it goes for you. talk to you later.

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Old 06-26-2007, 05:34 AM   #143
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i will try the pressure test tonight and see if it leaks. i can't make it to the track for testing right now.
as for the air gap, i did take out the insert when setting it.
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Old 06-26-2007, 09:30 AM   #144
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Dido, that method of tuning (setting air gap first), makes no sense to me. Counting turns is also a no no. When setting the HSN(first step in engine tuning), the air gap/idle speed, is totally irelevant. Simply keep the idle speed up enough to keep engine running. Richen HSN to the point that it will not clear out in high speed pass. Lean & make another high speed pass. Repeat untill engine clears & makes good rpm. With most engines, you can go in one more hour beyond this point. Bring it in and richen the low-end ( jacking up idle speed as needed to keep engine running at more or less normal idle rpm). Do pinch test after clearing out. Do stop and load-up test....High speed run followed by a brief idle, full throttle punch. Looking for slight stumble after 10 seconds of idle. No stumble after quick stop and go. More stumble after longer idle periods.
All needle and gap settings are too greatly affected by temp/atmospheric density/plug heat range/fuel type/humidity, to be relevant from one place to another. Furthermore, running needles all the way in (to count turns out) can damage the seat. Needle is made of hard steel, seat is made from soft aluminum or brass.
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Old 06-26-2007, 01:12 PM   #145
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who has any of the motors in stock, seems that no one has them in stock
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Old 06-26-2007, 01:29 PM   #146
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who has any of the motors in stock, seems that no one has them in stock
Yeah, all 3 of the places I know of in the US seem to be out.
http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/...idproduct=3048
http://tkocompetitiondev.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=283
http://www.rccompound.com/Engines-.2...duct_info.html

There is also US the distributor But again i have no idea if he has nay either.
http://www.racefactorindustries.com/catalog/i34.html
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Old 06-26-2007, 01:31 PM   #147
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engines are on there way out to carolinas and tko, i believe rccoumpond has engines in stock
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Old 06-26-2007, 02:10 PM   #148
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engines are on there way out to carolinas and tko, i believe rccoumpond has engines in stock
Thanks Russ
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Old 06-26-2007, 11:31 PM   #149
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yeah they sellout as quick as we can get them ...Awesome engine

keep trying your local distributor they should have stock pretty soon

Cheers MM
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Old 06-29-2007, 09:34 AM   #150
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ok, i have read all the post here on this thread, read alot of postings on sgrid.com now i need some advice on whether to buy the 5 or 7 port. the tracks in my area are big, seem to be "Motor" tracks. i have a losi 8ight buggy. running the 4 clutch setup. home track has a huge straightaway, very few turns, but other tracks have more tight turns. also have just a jp3 pipe, will have to start out with the pipe then maybe go with another one if i have to. one track that i will run in the winter is a very tight, high traction track. people run panther switch 2.0 clays on the track.

any advice would be great
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