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Old 06-29-2007, 04:38 PM   #151
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Originally Posted by vr6 View Post
ok, i have read all the post here on this thread, read alot of postings on sgrid.com now i need some advice on whether to buy the 5 or 7 port. the tracks in my area are big, seem to be "Motor" tracks. i have a losi 8ight buggy. running the 4 clutch setup. home track has a huge straightaway, very few turns, but other tracks have more tight turns. also have just a jp3 pipe, will have to start out with the pipe then maybe go with another one if i have to. one track that i will run in the winter is a very tight, high traction track. people run panther switch 2.0 clays on the track.

any advice would be great
If your running a big wide open track, i would suggest the 7 port....
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Old 06-29-2007, 06:27 PM   #152
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does the 7 port non turbo motor come with any glow plugs? and if not, what plugs to buy
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Old 06-29-2007, 09:47 PM   #153
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the standerd GO's come with 2 GO med plugs, i use those for breakin and for race i run the OS A3. OS P3 for turbo GO's
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Old 06-30-2007, 01:06 AM   #154
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personally, i'd use Go's plugs... as per us distributor site:

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Go Tech Engines use o.s. compatible glow plugs. These are the short thread glow plugs and you will damage your engine running any other non o.s. compatible plug. We reccomend our Go tech #5 glow plug and feel it is superior to the o.s. plugs.
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Old 07-01-2007, 09:18 PM   #155
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Id Agree with paradox the 7 port is real nice up top as well as down low.. You can further tune the 7 port with head button and shimming id recommend Turbo button with .65 shimming and say 25 to 30% nitro , no more than 11 % oil .. Im not a fan of OS plugs so i use the LRP # 6 but its up to you in the end .
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Old 07-02-2007, 05:05 PM   #156
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Originally Posted by mugenb46 View Post
the standerd GO's come with 2 GO med plugs, i use those for breakin and for race i run the OS A3. OS P3 for turbo GO's
The OS A3, is that a medium plug?? Is a OS #8 alright for the engine? Also my engine has the same problem with the carb spinning after I only took the screw out once and cleaned down the engine now the carb wont stay in place. Im sending it to RACEFACTOR INDUSTRIES to be rebuilt. Will a 7-port be able to push a MGT?

How do I get extra shims for the 5-port?

There is acouple of 5-Ports for sale in classifieds if everyone is out of stock.
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Last edited by trebor; 07-02-2007 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:00 PM   #157
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MM, i havn't tried the LRP, what are you liking about those, i'm always willing to test with something new, the os plugs are just easy to get here in the states, and i've had decent luck with them, more so the turbo's. Have you tested any with the MSR 1005 pipes, i'm using a Bullit msr 1005 on the 7 and am looking for time to get another 5 broke in and trying the msr on it as well.

Trebor, Russell will take care of you on the carb, take care in how tight you pinch the carb bolt, a little less than what you may have done in the past will do, i have seen them overdone and this can cause the problem you are seeing, i'm not sure how old the 7 is that you have, does it have the circles in the composite showing through the sheild, i have seen this on all the GO's i have done, and have had no issues with the carbs in that manner.
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Old 07-02-2007, 11:02 PM   #158
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Default My 2cents

1. Get the 7-port standard motor.
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=4477

2. Do the motor break-in and use the included $12 worth of plugs.

3. Buy the Turbo head button when it is back in stock for $17.
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=4206
Anyone else have the 7-port standard motor or turbo button in stock, feel free to chime in.

This is the process I am following, only with the 5port for my CRT, plus a sexy M2C clutch! I am about 6tanks through breakin. Here are my thoughts so far...

1. The motor is beautiful. Super-slick movement, no slop, total bling look. I'm not into bling, but if it comes with a great motor, it's fine with me.
2. Per Russel's instruction, I tested the carb for air leaks. It did happen to leak exactly where he explained, between the metal fuel inlet body and the plastic carb body. I was going to use silicone sealer like the rest of the motor, but Russel said to use JB weld. I mixed some up, applied around leak, let it cure. Next day, no leaks at all submerged in cold water.
3. Install new clutch, seal carb screw, install on truck, start break-in.
4. Heated with good heat gun over 200deg. Saturated heat across motor, fill with gas, turned over with less trouble than I expected from viewing other posts. Others describe an impossible pinch, but it seemed to spin and pop to life ok after the heat. It was crazy rich, as expected, but reacted predictably to carb adjustments. This is very important to me. I understand how to tune, but I don't have years of experience to help when things get way out of shape. I did have to unstick the motor a couple times when locked at TDC. Once I even had to pull the motor off the car as fast as I could to rotate by hand before it cooled off. Always returning to BDC after each run.
5. I'm gradually leaning out in order to get 3/4 throttle and WOT on the next couple tanks and check temps. I'm going easy on it, I want it to last. Temps have been 215-240 so far. First tank was lower even with heat-wrap, so I had to lean it slightly.
6. Pack up the truck, leave the tailgate down.
7. Get to my destination 25minutes away, and nearly puke when I saw the truck and hobby mat gone.
8. Race back to the house, watching for car and/or debris and mat.
9. The neighbor came out to go to the store and picked it up from the street, right where it rolled out the back!
Total stupid tax, $10 hobby mat.
10. I'll seal the backplate after break-in. Everything is going great so far, can't wait to hit the track!
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Old 07-04-2007, 01:53 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugenb46 View Post
MM, i havn't tried the LRP, what are you liking about those, i'm always willing to test with something new, the os plugs are just easy to get here in the states, and i've had decent luck with them, more so the turbo's. Have you tested any with the MSR 1005 pipes, i'm using a Bullit msr 1005 on the 7 and am looking for time to get another 5 broke in and trying the msr on it as well.

Trebor, Russell will take care of you on the carb, take care in how tight you pinch the carb bolt, a little less than what you may have done in the past will do, i have seen them overdone and this can cause the problem you are seeing, i'm not sure how old the 7 is that you have, does it have the circles in the composite showing through the sheild, i have seen this on all the GO's i have done, and have had no issues with the carbs in that manner.

Hey Brian !

Nice to chat with a fellow modder ! I like the feel of the OS plugs , they work great but their durability is what deters me from buying and recommending them , we've had way too many failures with them in the race team . Now im a little once bitten so to speak. I changed to LRP because they are easy to get and well priced and after i tested them i liked their performance and durability .. Ive had engines producing so much grunt that they pulled the center of the plug out and it still worked .. lol So i feel conident with this brand .

Im the same with the carb , the older carbs did have this problem , the new ones as Brian described are pretty good except for the leak .. Ive spoken to GO Tech about this and they are onto it . Ive also asked to re taper the LSN . it will make for easyer tuning ..

Whats your thoughts on the taper on the LSN Brian ?

ive attached a piccy of my latest 7 port mod ..
Attached Thumbnails
Go Tech Engines-mm-go-tech-7-port-modified.jpg  
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Old 07-05-2007, 11:55 PM   #160
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looks like your just trying to make stuff look neat, cool, and pretty now. i dont see how in any way those cuts under the boost port help performance.
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Old 07-06-2007, 02:57 PM   #161
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so its not just me...

what is it with modders polishing the internals? its only eye candy, and it actually doesn't boast performance.
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Old 07-08-2007, 01:39 PM   #162
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Default Go Tech sealed carb pics

I sealed around the leaking joint and the pinch bolt.

http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/aa244/aztraviss/
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Old 07-08-2007, 05:18 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZTman View Post
I sealed around the leaking joint and the pinch bolt.

http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/aa244/aztraviss/

did this help when you sealed the joint and pinch bolt?
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Old 07-08-2007, 08:47 PM   #164
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ran my go tech 5 port today. i sealed up the carb boot with a flexible rubber version CA glue (its the black liquid version that flash tak make, its for rubber tyres etc)

anyway the car had good power, but i did find it a little tricky to tune. it was hard to find a good low end idling tune, it would load up and react rich and required blips of the throttle to keep it clear. I did have major power though, the engine was very strong down low, top end was similar to most other buggies.

oww by the way i didn't experience the car leaning out like others reported, and the tune didn't go funny going of a jump either.
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Old 07-08-2007, 09:10 PM   #165
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what is every one using for a glow plug to break in there go motor? i have the 7port turbo plug motor. i bought a p3 plug(ultra hot) the other day, but after talkn to some experienced motor tuners in my area, they seemed concerned about a hot plug to use.
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