Originally Posted by MassiveMods

Hey Timmy

here is an article i wrote for another forum out lining theroy behind nitro engines run in , i guess you can make up your own mind what works...

Hi All

Scotty has brought this thread to my attention to help shed some light.

what ill write is my opinion based on my experience and is no way a dig at other peoples methods.

Ok firstly all non ringed nitro engines work on exactly the same principal. Modded or stock, end of story.. They rely on a cylindrycal piston to make a compression seal with a tapered sleeve. When new all engines have a certan degree of tolerated fit. IE how tight it is. When you modify an engine you do not alter these tolerances. There is no need to or gain from it.

Some manufacturers make a looser fit for easy run in. Remember 4 years ago when some engines like the Hypers etc were almost impossible to tun over ? Well what manufacturers have done is decrease the tolerance fit to make it easyer to run in.

What a run in is to break the tolerance down over time to fit the piston to the sleeve. If you do this cold on a bench or hot on the road the effect is the same except the tolerance will be different. The draw back is the engine is designed to work at a certain temp. Nitro will not burn till it hits 95 deg c on average and wont produce good power till it hits over 140 deg c . So heat is essentilal to an engine working properly. having said that the heat generated inside the combustion chamber is much higher than that read outside the engine. Once you bring a cold break in engine up to temp and the sleeve expands to its designed tolerance youre left with a smaller piston to make a fit.. what you get is blow by, this causes erratic temps, loss of power etc..

Anyway . immagine you have 2 identical motors , one run in on the bench , one run in on the road. The one run in on the bench will take less time to run in as its worn the piston against an un expanded sleeve. This is simple logic. Heat makes the entire engine expand, including crank case and to a higher degree the sleeve. If the sleeve is not expanded the piston will wear into it at that tolerance.

So if you want an engine to last , start it , put it on the ground and play with it. if youre a sponsored driver with 3 to 4 free engines a year to race with then run it in on the bench, the engine will come onto power and racing tolerance much sooner. heat cycling the engine will take up to 5 litres to bed in depending on tolerance.., but then it will last ages..

I have tried both these methods. I bought 2 of the exact same engine. I ran one hard and hot from day 1 and the other rich and cool on the bench.

The one on the bench lost all compression after 4 litres and was a paper weight. the other lasted over 35 litres with absolutley no repairs or servicing. That to me is a conclusive experiment.

Cheers MM

Originally Posted by FASRICK

Let me guess! M7H You must be Rick V's pit man or

Originally Posted by FF25510

got mine

the cooling head seems lighten then others

questions - if i ran 20% , should i add extra 0.1 shim ? it came with 0.3.

Originally Posted by M7H

haha, no not at all......

Originally Posted by FF25510

got mine

the cooling head seems lighten then others

questions - if i ran 20% , should i add extra 0.1 shim ? it came with 0.3.

Originally Posted by FF25510

got mine

the cooling head seems lighten then others

questions - if i ran 20% , should i add extra 0.1 shim ? it came with 0.3.

Originally Posted by FF25510

got mine

the cooling head seems lighten then others

questions - if i ran 20% , should i add extra 0.1 shim ? it came with 0.3.

Originally Posted by nitro_moe

Guys..??

Can you please tell me where are you buying them from.?? I only found it at Border but what hoping to find it somewhere in the U.S., Hong Kong, or Japan.

Please post a link..

Originally Posted by royfan33

I bought mine from Sam@ Team Kamikaze. He always gives me good service and a fair price.

Team Kamikaze

Originally Posted by nitro_moe

Thanks for the reply Roy..

It seems to me that all .12 ninjas come with the pipe. So how come Winner's Circle are selling the engine a lot cheaper than other retailers..?? Is it possible that they are selling it without the pipe..?? Does Ninja offer such an option..??

Originally Posted by royfan33

I know the engine will be available without the pipe, but it seems the kit is the only one dealers have in stock at the moment. I've seen the engine only for $230 or so. I wanted the pipe, so the kit made sense for me.