Thank you Mike

By the way how many shims for 25% in the MR21 R01A

On the .12, what shim is installed in the engine, what shim comes extra and what is the head clearance with the installed shim?

MR03003-10 Head gasket 0.1mm
MR03003-15 Head gasket 0.15mm
MR03003-20 Head gasket 0.2mm
MR03003-30 Head gasket 0.3mm

I'll say it for the rest of us and no disrepect to Rick V. being a Mugen driver and all, But Mike's motor,car and driving was far superior to Rick V's . And that's not something I heard from rumor, I seen that for my self, I was there!! And mind you they had the exact same motor so break-in methods due come into play. I have been around Mikey for 2 years straight and have never seen him change engines every run more like two or more major races. I SPEAK FACT NOT B.S


RICK WEST

Mike

Am I correct in sayng that in 10 tanks you only shut down the engine once, after the first tank.

Well, I do see the top drivers break-in an engine every major race they run... ok, it might just be a new piston/liner set, but a break-in proces of about 5 tanks of fuel is not for a replaced conrod......
And yes, they asked for your break-in process, but you commented on the fact to "stay away from the WOT methode", that is what I responded to.....
Oh, Mike I reckon with the break-in process you use the engine is set a full turn richer on the HSN?....


Even though Rick finished 2nd, and Mike didn't finish at all?....
That is a fact.... haha, but I know what you mean....

(Ben ik niet), I am not... to many people here can not handle any comment or remarks... they can't give good arguments, to convince me with something else....

Haha, yep... don't know why but it just happens!....

Mike,

first thank you for the good support. Another important thing for a good engine performance is the clutch. Which spring and clutch shoe do you use on the .12 Ninja engines.
And is it possible to get your Setup of the World Championship in Brisbane?!

Thank you!

That would mean that Mike spends more time breaking in engines that actualy racing them with an average of 2.5-3 hours breaking in each one!

I've recently bought a Boss / Ninja offroad motor. I ran it on the starter box for a couple of tanks and then on the track for the remaining six - eight tanks. In the past I've used the WOT method on the engine stand, running the HSN exceptionally rich to the point that shy of stalling. For five to ten seconds every minute, I would lean the HSN to increase RPM and temps, before richening the HSN again back to being just shy of stalling. Temps when running in remain around 110F. I'd do this for five to six tanks before considering the motor to be run in. I let the motor cool between tanks too. I found the nip to remain consistant, but the downstroke really throw itself down, unlike any motor I've had using any other run in method.

Can anyone comment on the suitability of this technique on Ninja motors? I've had a lot of success with this method; never had any failures or premature wear, and would really like to keep using the technique.

Thanks


Tim

Why don't you open the tanklid for 1 or 2 seconds, this will also result in an increase of the RPM......

I'd rather have control of the RPM via the mixture.

Let me guess! M7H You must be Rick V's pit man or

http://www.m7h.nl/m7h/martin.htm

i buy all my stuff from here best online store..

http://www.pro-s-futaba.co.jp/new.htm

Hey Timmy

here is an article i wrote for another forum out lining theroy behind nitro engines run in , i guess you can make up your own mind what works...

Hi All

Scotty has brought this thread to my attention to help shed some light.

what ill write is my opinion based on my experience and is no way a dig at other peoples methods.

Ok firstly all non ringed nitro engines work on exactly the same principal. Modded or stock, end of story.. They rely on a cylindrycal piston to make a compression seal with a tapered sleeve. When new all engines have a certan degree of tolerated fit. IE how tight it is. When you modify an engine you do not alter these tolerances. There is no need to or gain from it.

Some manufacturers make a looser fit for easy run in. Remember 4 years ago when some engines like the Hypers etc were almost impossible to tun over ? Well what manufacturers have done is decrease the tolerance fit to make it easyer to run in.

What a run in is to break the tolerance down over time to fit the piston to the sleeve. If you do this cold on a bench or hot on the road the effect is the same except the tolerance will be different. The draw back is the engine is designed to work at a certain temp. Nitro will not burn till it hits 95 deg c on average and wont produce good power till it hits over 140 deg c . So heat is essentilal to an engine working properly. having said that the heat generated inside the combustion chamber is much higher than that read outside the engine. Once you bring a cold break in engine up to temp and the sleeve expands to its designed tolerance youre left with a smaller piston to make a fit.. what you get is blow by, this causes erratic temps, loss of power etc..

Anyway . immagine you have 2 identical motors , one run in on the bench , one run in on the road. The one run in on the bench will take less time to run in as its worn the piston against an un expanded sleeve. This is simple logic. Heat makes the entire engine expand, including crank case and to a higher degree the sleeve. If the sleeve is not expanded the piston will wear into it at that tolerance.

So if you want an engine to last , start it , put it on the ground and play with it. if youre a sponsored driver with 3 to 4 free engines a year to race with then run it in on the bench, the engine will come onto power and racing tolerance much sooner. heat cycling the engine will take up to 5 litres to bed in depending on tolerance.., but then it will last ages..

I have tried both these methods. I bought 2 of the exact same engine. I ran one hard and hot from day 1 and the other rich and cool on the bench.

The one on the bench lost all compression after 4 litres and was a paper weight. the other lasted over 35 litres with absolutley no repairs or servicing. That to me is a conclusive experiment.

Cheers MM