Ninja Engine by GRP
#527
Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Are you serious..$230
?? Please post a link as soon as you can. This is one deal I won't think twice about.
?? Please post a link as soon as you can. This is one deal I won't think twice about.Just an FYI, I ordered my kit on Friday afternoon from Team Kamikaze and it was in my mailbox today when I got home. Thanks Sam
I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but the extra glowplugs I bought even come in little plastic translucent gray Ninja cases that seal nicely. Also see that there is a CD-rom enclosed that has the owners manual on it in the case. Nice touches on Ninja's part....
#528
Originally Posted by royfan33
I'm sure most dealers the carry the Ninja brand will be in that range for the engine only. Team Kamikaze is one, but they only have the kit in stock now. The only link I can provide is to Nitrohouse ,but it is for preorder only. Good luck
Just an FYI, I ordered my kit on Friday afternoon from Team Kamikaze and it was in my mailbox today when I got home. Thanks Sam
I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but the extra glowplugs I bought even come in little plastic translucent gray Ninja cases that seal nicely. Also see that there is a CD-rom enclosed that has the owners manual on it in the case. Nice touches on Ninja's part....
Just an FYI, I ordered my kit on Friday afternoon from Team Kamikaze and it was in my mailbox today when I got home. Thanks Sam
I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but the extra glowplugs I bought even come in little plastic translucent gray Ninja cases that seal nicely. Also see that there is a CD-rom enclosed that has the owners manual on it in the case. Nice touches on Ninja's part....
I'll be contacting them for sure about availability
#529
Originally Posted by Kanea6
hi i just bought a ninja .12 on sunday, and i cant get it to fire the glow plug is fine the glow warmer is fine everything is fine. ive been trying for 2 days now to get it to fire it just wont fire. please help me iam at my wits end 

If on the other hand the plug is dry, check your fuel supply to make sure it is getting past the fuel filter ect and getting to the carb. If it is make sure the fuel is getting past the highspeed needle. You can pull the filter, put your finger over the carb inlet and bump the starter it will choke it and you should see wetness in the carb throat from fuel. If still dry your HS needle is clogged. Been there done that too....if so you can totally pull the needle assembly then unscrew the needle and flush it out, or if you are afraid of creating a leak at the banjo fitting just back out the needle and flush it that way. I just hold the engine upside down to flush it that way.
What ever the case it should fire. I would think getting it to fire even a little lean for break in would be better than turning it over cold for days at a time. I'd also preheat the engine w/a heat gun or hairdryer to relieve some stress beings its giving you fits. Also make sure your needles are at factory recommended settings. Sometimes they make mistakes too...
This is just my personal experience w/nitro. Others should be able to chime in too to get you running. My first nitro was in '93 and it was a Paris Rex 3port, no internet to help me, but Ron Paris guided me on the phone to get it going. I always try to return the favor to anyone having problems, but it is hard to diagnose via the web....Good Luck
#530
Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Thanks for the reply Roy..
It seems to me that all .12 ninjas come with the pipe. So how come Winner's Circle are selling the engine a lot cheaper than other retailers..?? Is it possible that they are selling it without the pipe..?? Does Ninja offer such an option..??
It seems to me that all .12 ninjas come with the pipe. So how come Winner's Circle are selling the engine a lot cheaper than other retailers..?? Is it possible that they are selling it without the pipe..?? Does Ninja offer such an option..??

Yes the ninja comes in two packages that I know of. 1 has the motor and pipe package and 2 only has the engine.
#531
Well I pulled the engine apart last night to peek at the goods, and I'm impressed. If this little mill runs as good as it looks I'll be a happy camper
The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.
Few pics for those interested......
The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.
Few pics for those interested......
#533
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
1st Tank at idle. Shut it off and let it cool down. Make sure the piston is at the bottom.
2nd tank idle
3rd tank 1/4 throttle
4th tank 1/4 throttle
5th tank 1/2 throttle
6th tank 1/2 throttle
7th tank 1/2 throttle
8th tank full throttle (make sure engine is running rich)
9th tank 1/2 throttle
10th tank 1/4 throttle
Put the engine in the car and run two or three tanks at a rich setting on the track and then it will be o.k to lean it out.
2nd tank idle
3rd tank 1/4 throttle
4th tank 1/4 throttle
5th tank 1/2 throttle
6th tank 1/2 throttle
7th tank 1/2 throttle
8th tank full throttle (make sure engine is running rich)
9th tank 1/2 throttle
10th tank 1/4 throttle
Put the engine in the car and run two or three tanks at a rich setting on the track and then it will be o.k to lean it out.
Mike or anyone else
When following the above is the only time you stop then engine after the first tank or between all of them.
Thanks
#534
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 336
From: Ewa Beach, Hi
Originally Posted by PROVK
Help Please
Mike or anyone else
When following the above is the only time you stop then engine after the first tank or between all of them.
Thanks
Mike or anyone else
When following the above is the only time you stop then engine after the first tank or between all of them.
Thanks
#535
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
Stop the engine only after the first tank.
Just another quick one, you say one tank, is that the hudy tank or the equivelant of Mugen MRX-4Rs tank.
Thanks again
#537
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
Stop the engine only after the first tank.
Is there any need to lean/richen the engine to adjust the temp or just run it in with box settings?
#538
Originally Posted by royfan33
Two days?!? Have you pulled the plug after trying to fire for a while? If so is the plug wet or dry? If it is wet, double verify that the element on the plug is glowing, and then maybe lean a little if it still won't fire . I've had engines that were way rich from the factory and they wouldn't fire until toned down a little. Don't go to far though just a little at a time until it fires.
If on the other hand the plug is dry, check your fuel supply to make sure it is getting past the fuel filter ect and getting to the carb. If it is make sure the fuel is getting past the highspeed needle. You can pull the filter, put your finger over the carb inlet and bump the starter it will choke it and you should see wetness in the carb throat from fuel. If still dry your HS needle is clogged. Been there done that too....if so you can totally pull the needle assembly then unscrew the needle and flush it out, or if you are afraid of creating a leak at the banjo fitting just back out the needle and flush it that way. I just hold the engine upside down to flush it that way.
What ever the case it should fire. I would think getting it to fire even a little lean for break in would be better than turning it over cold for days at a time. I'd also preheat the engine w/a heat gun or hairdryer to relieve some stress beings its giving you fits. Also make sure your needles are at factory recommended settings. Sometimes they make mistakes too...
This is just my personal experience w/nitro. Others should be able to chime in too to get you running. My first nitro was in '93 and it was a Paris Rex 3port, no internet to help me, but Ron Paris guided me on the phone to get it going. I always try to return the favor to anyone having problems, but it is hard to diagnose via the web....Good Luck
If on the other hand the plug is dry, check your fuel supply to make sure it is getting past the fuel filter ect and getting to the carb. If it is make sure the fuel is getting past the highspeed needle. You can pull the filter, put your finger over the carb inlet and bump the starter it will choke it and you should see wetness in the carb throat from fuel. If still dry your HS needle is clogged. Been there done that too....if so you can totally pull the needle assembly then unscrew the needle and flush it out, or if you are afraid of creating a leak at the banjo fitting just back out the needle and flush it that way. I just hold the engine upside down to flush it that way.
What ever the case it should fire. I would think getting it to fire even a little lean for break in would be better than turning it over cold for days at a time. I'd also preheat the engine w/a heat gun or hairdryer to relieve some stress beings its giving you fits. Also make sure your needles are at factory recommended settings. Sometimes they make mistakes too...
This is just my personal experience w/nitro. Others should be able to chime in too to get you running. My first nitro was in '93 and it was a Paris Rex 3port, no internet to help me, but Ron Paris guided me on the phone to get it going. I always try to return the favor to anyone having problems, but it is hard to diagnose via the web....Good Luck
#539
Originally Posted by royfan33
Well I pulled the engine apart last night to peek at the goods, and I'm impressed. If this little mill runs as good as it looks I'll be a happy camper
The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.
Few pics for those interested......
The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.
Few pics for those interested......
No work at all done to the liner.......
#540
Originally Posted by M7H
Well, don't know what you have seen in this engine what impresses you, but for me it looks just basic and simple....
No work at all done to the liner.......
No work at all done to the liner.......



