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Old 03-05-2007 | 07:28 AM
  #526  
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I've got mine !!! ...

Gentlemen, start your engines !!! Woah...aoh...woahh ! (engine sound !)

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Old 03-05-2007 | 04:11 PM
  #527  
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Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Are you serious..$230 ?? Please post a link as soon as you can. This is one deal I won't think twice about.
I'm sure most dealers the carry the Ninja brand will be in that range for the engine only. Team Kamikaze is one, but they only have the kit in stock now. The only link I can provide is to Nitrohouse ,but it is for preorder only. Good luck

Just an FYI, I ordered my kit on Friday afternoon from Team Kamikaze and it was in my mailbox today when I got home. Thanks Sam

I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but the extra glowplugs I bought even come in little plastic translucent gray Ninja cases that seal nicely. Also see that there is a CD-rom enclosed that has the owners manual on it in the case. Nice touches on Ninja's part....
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Old 03-05-2007 | 04:39 PM
  #528  
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Originally Posted by royfan33
I'm sure most dealers the carry the Ninja brand will be in that range for the engine only. Team Kamikaze is one, but they only have the kit in stock now. The only link I can provide is to Nitrohouse ,but it is for preorder only. Good luck

Just an FYI, I ordered my kit on Friday afternoon from Team Kamikaze and it was in my mailbox today when I got home. Thanks Sam

I haven't had a chance to check it out yet, but the extra glowplugs I bought even come in little plastic translucent gray Ninja cases that seal nicely. Also see that there is a CD-rom enclosed that has the owners manual on it in the case. Nice touches on Ninja's part....
Thanks for the link Royfan.. I'll be contacting them for sure about availability
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Old 03-05-2007 | 05:37 PM
  #529  
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Originally Posted by Kanea6
hi i just bought a ninja .12 on sunday, and i cant get it to fire the glow plug is fine the glow warmer is fine everything is fine. ive been trying for 2 days now to get it to fire it just wont fire. please help me iam at my wits end
Two days?!? Have you pulled the plug after trying to fire for a while? If so is the plug wet or dry? If it is wet, double verify that the element on the plug is glowing, and then maybe lean a little if it still won't fire . I've had engines that were way rich from the factory and they wouldn't fire until toned down a little. Don't go to far though just a little at a time until it fires.

If on the other hand the plug is dry, check your fuel supply to make sure it is getting past the fuel filter ect and getting to the carb. If it is make sure the fuel is getting past the highspeed needle. You can pull the filter, put your finger over the carb inlet and bump the starter it will choke it and you should see wetness in the carb throat from fuel. If still dry your HS needle is clogged. Been there done that too....if so you can totally pull the needle assembly then unscrew the needle and flush it out, or if you are afraid of creating a leak at the banjo fitting just back out the needle and flush it that way. I just hold the engine upside down to flush it that way.

What ever the case it should fire. I would think getting it to fire even a little lean for break in would be better than turning it over cold for days at a time. I'd also preheat the engine w/a heat gun or hairdryer to relieve some stress beings its giving you fits. Also make sure your needles are at factory recommended settings. Sometimes they make mistakes too...

This is just my personal experience w/nitro. Others should be able to chime in too to get you running. My first nitro was in '93 and it was a Paris Rex 3port, no internet to help me, but Ron Paris guided me on the phone to get it going. I always try to return the favor to anyone having problems, but it is hard to diagnose via the web....Good Luck
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Old 03-06-2007 | 11:10 AM
  #530  
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Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Thanks for the reply Roy..

It seems to me that all .12 ninjas come with the pipe. So how come Winner's Circle are selling the engine a lot cheaper than other retailers..?? Is it possible that they are selling it without the pipe..?? Does Ninja offer such an option..??

Yes the ninja comes in two packages that I know of. 1 has the motor and pipe package and 2 only has the engine.
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Old 03-06-2007 | 11:49 AM
  #531  
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Well I pulled the engine apart last night to peek at the goods, and I'm impressed. If this little mill runs as good as it looks I'll be a happy camper

The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.

Few pics for those interested......
Attached Thumbnails Ninja Engine by GRP-ninja001.jpg   Ninja Engine by GRP-ninja002.jpg   Ninja Engine by GRP-ninja003.jpg   Ninja Engine by GRP-ninja006.jpg   Ninja Engine by GRP-ninja004.jpg  

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Old 03-06-2007 | 12:08 PM
  #532  
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Very nice.
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Old 03-06-2007 | 02:58 PM
  #533  
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Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
1st Tank at idle. Shut it off and let it cool down. Make sure the piston is at the bottom.
2nd tank idle
3rd tank 1/4 throttle
4th tank 1/4 throttle
5th tank 1/2 throttle
6th tank 1/2 throttle
7th tank 1/2 throttle
8th tank full throttle (make sure engine is running rich)
9th tank 1/2 throttle
10th tank 1/4 throttle

Put the engine in the car and run two or three tanks at a rich setting on the track and then it will be o.k to lean it out.
Help Please
Mike or anyone else

When following the above is the only time you stop then engine after the first tank or between all of them.

Thanks
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Old 03-06-2007 | 03:00 PM
  #534  
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Originally Posted by PROVK
Help Please
Mike or anyone else

When following the above is the only time you stop then engine after the first tank or between all of them.

Thanks
Stop the engine only after the first tank.
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Old 03-06-2007 | 03:04 PM
  #535  
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Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
Stop the engine only after the first tank.
Thanks for you quick reply Mike.

Just another quick one, you say one tank, is that the hudy tank or the equivelant of Mugen MRX-4Rs tank.

Thanks again
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Old 03-06-2007 | 03:16 PM
  #536  
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Originally Posted by PROVK
Thanks for you quick reply Mike.

Just another quick one, you say one tank, is that the hudy tank or the equivelant of Mugen MRX-4Rs tank.

Thanks again
The hudy tank.
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Old 03-06-2007 | 06:05 PM
  #537  
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Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
Stop the engine only after the first tank.
Should you touch the factory needle settings while breaking it in?

Is there any need to lean/richen the engine to adjust the temp or just run it in with box settings?
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Old 03-07-2007 | 03:24 AM
  #538  
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Originally Posted by royfan33
Two days?!? Have you pulled the plug after trying to fire for a while? If so is the plug wet or dry? If it is wet, double verify that the element on the plug is glowing, and then maybe lean a little if it still won't fire . I've had engines that were way rich from the factory and they wouldn't fire until toned down a little. Don't go to far though just a little at a time until it fires.

If on the other hand the plug is dry, check your fuel supply to make sure it is getting past the fuel filter ect and getting to the carb. If it is make sure the fuel is getting past the highspeed needle. You can pull the filter, put your finger over the carb inlet and bump the starter it will choke it and you should see wetness in the carb throat from fuel. If still dry your HS needle is clogged. Been there done that too....if so you can totally pull the needle assembly then unscrew the needle and flush it out, or if you are afraid of creating a leak at the banjo fitting just back out the needle and flush it that way. I just hold the engine upside down to flush it that way.

What ever the case it should fire. I would think getting it to fire even a little lean for break in would be better than turning it over cold for days at a time. I'd also preheat the engine w/a heat gun or hairdryer to relieve some stress beings its giving you fits. Also make sure your needles are at factory recommended settings. Sometimes they make mistakes too...

This is just my personal experience w/nitro. Others should be able to chime in too to get you running. My first nitro was in '93 and it was a Paris Rex 3port, no internet to help me, but Ron Paris guided me on the phone to get it going. I always try to return the favor to anyone having problems, but it is hard to diagnose via the web....Good Luck
thanks mate finally got it started thanks for you help
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Old 03-07-2007 | 04:24 AM
  #539  
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Originally Posted by royfan33
Well I pulled the engine apart last night to peek at the goods, and I'm impressed. If this little mill runs as good as it looks I'll be a happy camper

The crank seems especially nice for the price. Turbo cut w/tungsten weight, instead of putty for the ramp it is machined in. Also the machine work in the crank case seems excellent. Bearings feel very high quality. Unlike alot of engines I see nowadays the the head to button surface is machined instead of having the anodizing or whatever they use to color the head between the head/button. The sleeve doesn't have any crazy porting done, but I doubt it's needed. Overall I give an A+ for initial design and craftsmanship. Have to see how she runs now.

Few pics for those interested......
Well, don't know what you have seen in this engine what impresses you, but for me it looks just basic and simple....
No work at all done to the liner.......
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Old 03-07-2007 | 07:20 AM
  #540  
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Originally Posted by M7H
Well, don't know what you have seen in this engine what impresses you, but for me it looks just basic and simple....
No work at all done to the liner.......
Man all the post you have posted lately, you have nothing good to say, I don't wanna start drama but people here are just showing what they bought and they are proud of it.
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