If the crank moves in and out with the flywheel on the front bearing is bad.(small bearing)

Rex

I doubt it the fuel. If you lost the front bearing from what it sound like. Did you have a shim behind the collet to space the collet away from the bearing. Did the shim only thouch the inner race of the bearing. My argus engines have over 5 gallons and still all on the stock bearings and internals..

thanks for the reply.it does not move in and out but right to left side side.i remove both bearings front feels right but rear not.in the rear bearing i can move the inner race in and out too much.no i did not place any shim ibehind the collet the collet touches only the inner race of the front bearing and when i grab the flywheel i can not move it in and out but only side to side.i can not change bearings every time i go to the track so something i do wrong but what?

You could have just got a bad bearing. But also did you run it really rich for the first gallon or at least doing break in. Also you might try Bryons caster oil additive amain hobbies sell it i use it for break in only. After that I use marvels mystery oil when the sit for the winter. When you put in the new bearings it would be a good Idea to oil them before you close the engine up. If you don't have the hudy bearing tool buy it trust me best tool on the market for installation of bearings and taking them out... I also when I have to break in the engine is open them up and drop some oil on the rear bearings too. Hope this help.

i was very gentle with break in i put a few drops of oil before even starting for the first time preheat it for the first gallon always.and for the first half gallon i use 16% nitro fuel.always monitoring the temp.and after every use i burn all the remain fuel until engine dies and the i use wd40 as after run oil.only for two tanks at the track i was lean on lsn

I would stop using wd40 for after run oil. It not an oil substance and does have a flash point of 300 degrees. It will clean out what ever oil is in those bearings. I know Traxxas say spay wd40 into the carb to clean it out but after ward they also state put after run oil in the carb. That could be your problem there.

ok thanks.but i like wd40 because when i open the engine it was very clean inside.how about use wd40 after my last run to clear the engine and then some oil??is this better?

I would think that would be better but not best. You should see a yellow film on you engine internals that is the oil from the fuel protecting the engine. Wd 40 will clean it off everytime.

Some fully synthetic fuel will make the internal look clean but i prefer fuel with castor/synthetic, it will left some oil after each run, good to prevent dry start n rust building up

I am going by the track this weekend to finish breaking in a motor. Got a few tank fulls on it last weekend, but she is still tight. I am hoping the motor drops it's nuts tomorrow. So far, the motor hasn't missed a beat even though it is tight.

Yes the RW Modded R8 works really well in GT8. I ran this engine in 2014 in Texas SWCS and local smaller tracks. At first everyone said "What engine" and it kept up with everything out there. Yea I have to go 5port everywhere I race now. Darn!

The A5 is 5 port with no bypass, I can put it in the R8 you have also.

Rex

Coming soon!!

3-port racing engine? Very excited

How's the power band on the new 3 port? Is it going to be a better buggy or truggy motor. If it has good bottom end, it would be great in a GT too. The picco and nova approved GT 5 port motors have bypass ports. They are 5+2. I am going to run my R8 in my GT at the track in LA. Still waiting for roar to update info on the roar Web page about rules on 5 port motor. Specifically about 5+2.