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"the engine break in bible"

Old 09-11-2013, 06:43 PM
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Mach .15's are like a $100 engine, after reinvesting all these parts into it you will most likely hve more then a $100 back into it. Maybe look into a diffent small block engine and start new altogether?
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:21 AM
  #377  
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Rider313, I know the Mach 15 was not the best engine ever made. Other people think I'm nuts, but I have found all the rebuild parts on Ebay, and Ill have $50-60 into a complete rebuild. Including p/s, con rod and bearings. All new, short of the block itself.

As much as I would like a brand new engine, I cant decide which one, and cant justify dropping $150-200++ right now. I would like to put a Dynamite or Losi engine in my XXX-NT, just to keep it brand loyal. (It annoys me when people put Chevy engines in Ford trucks...)

Any opinions on the Losi 3.4, other than the fact it would be crazy in a XXX-NT? Given the limited gearing options of the XXX-NT, I need power/torque across a wide power-band. (right?)

A brand new, high end Italian engine in a 15 year old truck would just be silly. (Though I love the Novarossi MT12 in my RC10GT)

Im not a racer, just an old school back-yard-basher...


Thanks for replies.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:56 PM
  #378  
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Originally Posted by aussies1129
On all my novarossi engines a rod change is ideal
Around the 2 - 2 1/2 gal mark after the engine is completely run in
And I like to use a desk fan to help cool the engine down when
Heat cycling anything to speed up the process

Cheers
how bout the freezer!! jk
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Old 11-24-2013, 06:29 AM
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Breaking in motor now. Temps got up to around 240-260 for a short time. Using heat cycle on box for first 15 min with 3-5 min cycles. What are the ill affects if temp went up for a short time during break in? Engine was preheated with gun to 190 or so for each start. I know some guys at the track run there motors at a max of 260. Been told about 240 is ideal.
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:23 AM
  #380  
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Originally Posted by invrtd
Breaking in motor now. Temps got up to around 240-260 for a short time. Using heat cycle on box for first 15 min with 3-5 min cycles. What are the ill affects if temp went up for a short time during break in? Engine was preheated with gun to 190 or so for each start. I know some guys at the track run there motors at a max of 260. Been told about 240 is ideal.
you'll be ok if it was only for a short time (inside 5 min) , keep temps in the 210-225 range for first 1500cc or so
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:03 PM
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Hi guys

I see there is alot of helpful folks here so I thought id post my question here. I have an argus .23 and wanted to find out generally the best way to break this motor in. Its in a truggy if that helps any. Thanks a bunch
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Old 03-05-2014, 09:38 AM
  #382  
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Hi,
Anybody knows with which fuel you should break in your engine please
thankyou
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by luke71933
Hi,
Anybody knows with which fuel you should break in your engine please
thankyou
Use the fuel that you will be using regularly.
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:11 PM
  #384  
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Originally Posted by luke71933
Hi,
Anybody knows with which fuel you should break in your engine please
thankyou
fwiw a fuel such as byrons gen2 race blends of fuel is highly recommended by myself as it is a higher percentage of castor mix than most and is exceptional for engine break ins , ive done a few thousand break ins and tried many different oil pkgs and race blend is the best I have found

once engine is broke in I recommend using race 3000 indefinitely or switching to pro driver blend or worlds blend
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by houston
factory tuned means that they have precisely ground intake timings into the crank and block , very useful tuning
Are yourself, Neal from Clockwork Engines and others still tuning these "tuned" engines?
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:42 PM
  #386  
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Originally Posted by RiPPeN302
Are yourself, Neal from Clockwork Engines and others still tuning these "tuned" engines?
I would prefer to say "hand finishing" these engines

I completely leave the decision up to whomever is purchasing the engine whether or not they want the "hand finishing" done to the engine
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Old 03-11-2014, 04:36 AM
  #387  
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Hi,
How do you know that an engine is fully broken in and I can race tune it and jump it at the local track. I have ran 2 tanks idle but giving 1/4 throttle to up temperature a bit and then 3,4,5 tanks on the ground 1/4 thorttle and all the way up to full then cut out to idle for 2 sec and give it some 1/4 throttle always having low rpm. Temp while idle with heater on all the time was 190f and temp while driving was 132f and it is running very rich with tons of smoke and sometimes when going from 1/4 throttle to full throttle it makes that sound as if it is going to flameout but then it gets the gas and works fine .
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by luke71933
Hi,
How do you know that an engine is fully broken in and I can race tune it and jump it at the local track. I have ran 2 tanks idle but giving 1/4 throttle to up temperature a bit and then 3,4,5 tanks on the ground 1/4 thorttle and all the way up to full then cut out to idle for 2 sec and give it some 1/4 throttle always having low rpm. Temp while idle with heater on all the time was 190f and temp while driving was 132f and it is running very rich with tons of smoke and sometimes when going from 1/4 throttle to full throttle it makes that sound as if it is going to flameout but then it gets the gas and works fine .
Then you need to retune it , your needles are wayyyyy out of balance if it idles at 190 but runs on the ground at 130 which is wayyyyyy too cold be breaking an rc car engine in .

Advice , richen lsn just a lil and lean on top until you get it to run in the 200 range
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:15 AM
  #389  
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I left My heating element heating the engine when on idle thats why It kept temp at 190f because as soon as I took of my heater the temp drops down . The temp is really cold at 12 degrees celcius so I think 132f is normal? If I lean it out more It ll become similar to race tune or slightly richer I think.
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:20 AM
  #390  
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132F is not near warm enough to break in an engine. It's just cold enough to stress your rod to hell and back...and wear out the mechanical pinch in your engine though! You need that engine upwards of 210ish to get the different metals inside to all expand properly. That is the entire goal of break in....expand the metals, fire it up....keep it hot so the materials can all wear into each other with minimal wear and tear on that rod.

So I leave my engine heater on my engines during break in as well. If my engine is anywhere under 230.....I lean it out until it runs up higher. I only worry about my tune once I put it on the ground and start driving. If it's too rich on the box during break in...GREAT! More oil = less wear as long as it's HOT.

So get some heat in that sucker. If it's too cold...wrap it in aluminum foil or an old sock or something to keep the heat inside it.
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