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"the engine break in bible"

Old 04-12-2013, 08:08 AM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by Toiffel
Monty, I did a quick search but couldn't find info, could you elaborate please on the 20 sec idle test ? I've been under the impression, that you don't want the engine to do a 2 stage idle coming off a hard pull ? Or is it normal ?
Thanks
its pretty hard to completely get rid of the "staged idle" effect some engines have but the 20 sec. thing , warm your engine , fire it up , fully warm up not 1 min. warm up , clean engine out (note: your engines rpm should be limited upon full pull of the throttle by the hsn at this point , if not make it so) , let it come to its stable idle , once it does count to 20 , stab the throttle , you want only slight hesitation ,if it blubbers and dies its more than likely wayyyyyy too rich on the lsn , if it sounds like a stutter and a cavitating sound its too lean , remember to adjust in small increments if you are unsure of exactly what it is that you are doing
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:29 AM
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Just got my new OS spec 3 all installed and ready to go. with the heat cycle method do you have to consider changing the rod shortly after or should i save the spare one til later in the race season. also, when you say cool down, let it sit and naturally cool? or can it be actively cooled to speed up the process?
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by valk
Just got my new OS spec 3 all installed and ready to go. with the heat cycle method do you have to consider changing the rod shortly after or should i save the spare one til later in the race season. also, when you say cool down, let it sit and naturally cool? or can it be actively cooled to speed up the process?
On all my novarossi engines a rod change is ideal
Around the 2 - 2 1/2 gal mark after the engine is completely run in
And I like to use a desk fan to help cool the engine down when
Heat cycling anything to speed up the process
Cheers
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:08 PM
  #364  
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during heat cycle when it says let it cool does it mean completely cool or just below operating temp? and the 15-30 minutes is referring to time at operating temp?
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by rjkotzur
during heat cycle when it says let it cool does it mean completely cool or just below operating temp? and the 15-30 minutes is referring to time at operating temp?
Let it cool completely. Not sure I understand your 15-30 minute question. You want to "heat cycle" the engine which means get it to temp, fully saturated temp, which will take around 3 minutes, and then let it cool completely with the piston at the bottom of the stroke(bdc)... Good Luck and enjoy.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:31 PM
  #366  
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Ready for some break-in :-)

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Old 08-07-2013, 02:40 PM
  #367  
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Houston, im about to break in my new os xzb speed2 and have read this whole thread but an alittle confused and wanted to ask is u can pm or post here the current break-in method in some detail any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:15 PM
  #368  
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Probaly missed something in this thread. Im new to nitro. Am i understanding that the factory settings are way to rich for break in? If so i would love to know where to start from fully closed high and low speed needle setting on an os 21xzb. I understand that 3hour out from race tune is a good place to start. Any help for tomorows break in would be great. Thnx

mike v.
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Old 09-01-2013, 07:57 AM
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Default Nice thread Houston

Anyone ever try and break in their engines and it was so rich from the factory it wouldn't even start? had that issue on one motor and was skeptical about leaning it during break in from what i heard elsewhere but you gotta do what you gotta do..

Thanks again for the thread.
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Lt819
Anyone ever try and break in their engines and it was so rich from the factory it wouldn't even start? had that issue on one motor and was skeptical about leaning it during break in from what i heard elsewhere but you gotta do what you gotta do..

Thanks again for the thread.
Yup. Several times and also too lean. Normally its the LSN that causing the problems. If the idlegab is approx. 1 mm open, the engine shall start. If it blows a lot of fuel out of the pipe, when you tries to start it, its too rich. Lean the LSN 1\2 of a turn clockwise, and see whats happens. Eg RB Killer engines needs 3 to 4 turn in, to start!
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:02 PM
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Whats the best way to break one in on a break in bench,I know Monty could answer this.
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by johnr2262
Whats the best way to break one in on a break in bench,I know Monty could answer this.
The manual which comes with the hudy breakin bench has worked well for me. Also there are too many factors which affect needle settings to use something from the Internet. Elevation, outside temp, glow plug, and fuel will all change needle settings.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
The manual which comes with the hudy breakin bench has worked well for me. Also there are too many factors which affect needle settings to use something from the Internet. Elevation, outside temp, glow plug, and fuel will all change needle settings.
ok that works for me. thanks
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:00 AM
  #374  
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I am rebuilding the Dynamite Mach 15 in my Losi XXX-NT. A few questions...

The engine is still in and drivable, but getting tired.

I figure the current (running) carb settings are in the ballpark. A little on the rich side. See any reason why I should reset the adjustments to do the break in?

The piston/sleeve (LOSR6569) I got did not come with the con rod (LOSR6519). It seems people recommend to break in (heat cycle) the engine, then replace the rod.

Any chance you guys wait until after break in to replace the bearings? The ones in the engine now don't leak, but I am going to replace them.

I also found a new crankshaft. The one I have now does not seem damaged, but see any reason I shouldn't replace it?

The plan I have in my head is to break in the piston/sleeve, then replace the crank, con rod and bearings.

Does that make any sense?


This will be my first rebuild and break-in. Thanks for any advice.


P.S. Know of any Mods to the Mach 15 to give it more power?
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JSchubz
I am rebuilding the Dynamite Mach 15 in my Losi XXX-NT. A few questions...

The engine is still in and drivable, but getting tired.

I figure the current (running) carb settings are in the ballpark. A little on the rich side. See any reason why I should reset the adjustments to do the break in?

The piston/sleeve (LOSR6569) I got did not come with the con rod (LOSR6519). It seems people recommend to break in (heat cycle) the engine, then replace the rod.

Any chance you guys wait until after break in to replace the bearings? The ones in the engine now don't leak, but I am going to replace them.

I also found a new crankshaft. The one I have now does not seem damaged, but see any reason I shouldn't replace it?

The plan I have in my head is to break in the piston/sleeve, then replace the crank, con rod and bearings.

Does that make any sense?


This will be my first rebuild and break-in. Thanks for any advice.


P.S. Know of any Mods to the Mach 15 to give it more power?
If it was mine engine,(as you explained) I would put all the new parts in that you planned to replace. Reason being, bearings require a bit of break in also.2.Am not familiar with your engine, but, it probably does not have a ridiculous amount of pinch like a full on race engine does, which is why they sometimes require a rod change. Breaking everything in together should make the engine happier...
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