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"the engine break in bible"

Old 03-11-2014, 09:07 AM
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A little trick I use is to get one of those thick beer couzys and cut it to fit around the engine. Holds the heat in really well.
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:11 AM
  #392  
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1/10th tire foam works in a pinch as well, just don't use anything foam under your engine heater....might burn it.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:02 AM
  #393  
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So I shouldnt drive the car on the ground just run on starterbox ? because I cant let heater on while driving slowly on the ground. Ill be doing my 6th tank next time, How many more tanks until I can jump it and race tune?
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by luke71933
So I shouldnt drive the car on the ground just run on starterbox ? because I cant let heater on while driving slowly on the ground. Ill be doing my 6th tank next time, How many more tanks until I can jump it and race tune?
This is why you use a beer couzy or soft tire like MotoGod said. You need to get the engine up to 200* and keep it there during break-in. If you can't obtain temperature then do not try to break it in right now.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by luke71933
So I shouldnt drive the car on the ground just run on starterbox ? because I cant let heater on while driving slowly on the ground. Ill be doing my 6th tank next time, How many more tanks until I can jump it and race tune?
Why can't you leave your heater on while driving it around? I use a competition heat engine heater, and leave it on while breaking in engines all the time. Just tuck the plug under your wing mount.....

Now, I break my engines in at a parking lot near my house. If I was trying to do it by going slowly around a track, I might not leave it on. In cases like those, I kept some socks from when my son's were babies. Putting one or two socks over the cooling head works wonderfully.....
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Old 03-11-2014, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by luke71933
So I shouldnt drive the car on the ground just run on starterbox ? because I cant let heater on while driving slowly on the ground. Ill be doing my 6th tank next time, How many more tanks until I can jump it and race tune?
Assuming you didn't build your own heater and you're using something like a competition heat setup, just leave it on there like Stubbs said and tuck the cable. You can also take off the heater and wrap it right away with aluminum foil, a sock, a tire foam, whatever you can get that will fit on there and help it retain heat and then drive around.

I do the same as Stubby, but I use the street in front of my house instead of a parking lot for break in. I start on my starterbox for 3-4 tanks, then I do slow figure 8 driving for 2-4 tanks, then I start going up and down the street at varying throttle input until I get enough fuel through it to start creeping up on a tune. I prefer to heat cycle though, so 1 tank might last me for 2-3 heat cycles.

100 different break in methods, but everyone I have ever heard about requires the engine to be HOT. Not cold...Not warm. HOT! lol Hot would be best described as 200F or higher. Some use 210...some use 260. Just get it hot and make sure it has a good supply of oil and you'll be fine.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:43 PM
  #397  
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Originally Posted by houston
I would prefer to say "hand finishing" these engines

I completely leave the decision up to whomever is purchasing the engine whether or not they want the "hand finishing" done to the engine
Could you elaborate a little more on hand finishing? I am very curious and always have been when tuners talk about tuning engines.. What exactly is being done and how?
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by RiPPeN302
Could you elaborate a little more on hand finishing? I am very curious and always have been when tuners talk about tuning engines.. What exactly is being done and how?
If I had to guess (I'm not an engine modder) he's referring to basically blueprinting the sleeve/engine. Cleaning up any factory machine marks that may interupt the air/fuel flow...maybe polishing ports/button head to achieve better flow....potentially porting or modifying the factory ports....things like that.

That's what I read into when I hear "hand finishing" as opposed to modding or porting. Just a guess though!
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:57 AM
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Ill lean it out and put a video of my engine working next time, Ill put a sock or some aluminium foil tape around the head
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by luke71933
Ill lean it out and put a video of my engine working next time, Ill put a sock or some aluminium foil tape around the head
Just be careful. If there is any time in an engines life you don't want it to be too lean...it's during break in. That's why it's preferred to run it richer, but keep the head wrapped to retain heat. So definitely lean it out, just don't go crazy with it.
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Old 03-15-2014, 07:57 AM
  #401  
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I completed another 4 tanks today for a total of 9 tanks. On the 9th tank the temp was 210f but It was lean enough that it let me do all the jumps at my track perfectly. the other 3 tanks the temp was around 160-190f and I put some foil around it for that time and always preheated ti to 180-200f. I think the break in is done now. The engine isnt getting stuck at TDC.
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Old 03-15-2014, 08:28 AM
  #402  
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Originally Posted by luke71933
I completed another 4 tanks today for a total of 9 tanks. On the 9th tank the temp was 210f but It was lean enough that it let me do all the jumps at my track perfectly. the other 3 tanks the temp was around 160-190f and I put some foil around it for that time and always preheated ti to 180-200f. I think the break in is done now. The engine isnt getting stuck at TDC.
you probably allready know this or its been told to you but always make sure the piston is at bdc when you shut it off before it cools. if its up in the pinch the sleeve will cool around the piston. thats a problem you dont want.
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Old 03-15-2014, 09:54 AM
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Yea I made sure it is at bdc all the time
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:53 AM
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hey guys, I have a few questions about breaking in my motor. This will be my first nitro "race" motor and I want to make sure I do it right. I understand the basic procedure of getting it up to temp and the break-in process but my two main questions are this:

1) do I need to complete the break in all in one shot? Like can I do a few tanks on the starter box one day, then a few more tanks the next day, and so on? Or is it best to devote an entire day to do it all straight through start to finish?

2) After run oil...... I see people saying to get the motor at BDC to let it cool, do I want to drop in a few drops of the after run oil while its cooling? Or is that mainly for storage for a longer time (like a week between races for example)?
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mxnickj
hey guys, I have a few questions about breaking in my motor. This will be my first nitro "race" motor and I want to make sure I do it right. I understand the basic procedure of getting it up to temp and the break-in process but my two main questions are this:

1) do I need to complete the break in all in one shot? Like can I do a few tanks on the starter box one day, then a few more tanks the next day, and so on? Or is it best to devote an entire day to do it all straight through start to finish?

2) After run oil...... I see people saying to get the motor at BDC to let it cool, do I want to drop in a few drops of the after run oil while its cooling? Or is that mainly for storage for a longer time (like a week between races for example)?
you can spread out the break-in process, just keep notes so you know where your at when you get back to it again. Part of the breakin process is heat cycles so make sure you have the piston out of the pinch zone while it cools. If you are in a rush to break in, after that run, put the engine in front of a fan on its lowest setting to help cool the engine a little faster to ambient temp. before preheating and getting back to you cycles.

I don't use after run oil (I have filled cranks on my engines) at the end of the day just dump the fuel left in your tank and leave it at that. DON'T RUN THE ENGINE OUT OF FUEL! if you use Byrons you will have a nice coat of oil left over your internals to protect them. At season end I inspect my engines and when rebuild them I put some lube booster from Byrons or Novarossi assembly oil as I put them back together and then seal them in ziplock bags and store them in my house.
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