Where in the USA can this motor be bought?

I believe the manual states that to spin the banjo fitting you must replace the crush washers. I have never had moved mine so I haven't needed to replace the washers.

ALSO THE PRICE CHANGED TO $163
You have to get it overseas.

I have used them in the past. Top Option and http://www.wartelle-shop.com/
Ship to the usa.



To celebrate winning the French, British and European Championships, Racing Experience along with Novarossi are offering a new engine based on the world famous P5 XLT. This P8XLT is a long stroke 8 port engine based on the well known S21 crankcase. Main features include turbo combustion chamber with O Ring, a super strong R7 conrod, a 14.5mm shaft with upsized counterweight to increase low-end torque and the 8 port sleeve with 3 exhaust ports gives quicker acceleration. To top it off there is a 60mm lightened cooling head. This motor will come in at less than EUR200 and will be available in limited quantities across the Racing Experience territories including France, UK, Portugal and the French speaking part of Belgium


I would look at some of the UK shops too.

GOT THIS

Colissimo International
shipping is 22.10 EUR = 27.5382 USD
Which is 4 days air.

+
163.04 EUR = 203.138 USD


=
230.66 USD

I may order one myself ..

Just loosen, turn to where you want it and tighten.

I emailed him and I will see if in the ball park for this.

Thanks for the info.

[QUOTE=Maximo;11118134]I Would like to introduce the CRE Proto 7 .......

custom built 7 port based out of a P5 case, full ceramic bearings..............Engine is fantastic with the strongest, most useable bottom end I have seen from a .21.....Exceptional runtimes and a fantastic top end...this engine is truly badass...... We will have 10 available this week

What sort of cooling head comes with the engine.
Do you offer a steel ball engine as well....

You have PM sir.

it's are really good price!!

Sorry but I didnt get your PM

I sent it in a email but check your pm too. ok

[QUOTE=blade954;11122247]
it will have the P5 head...and I could do a steel bearing version, however I do not trust the stock steel bearings on such a high RPM engine.......If you planned to change out the bearings then its all good.......

I found a btt crank case for real cheap. Can some one tell me if this will work with the internals from a plus 4C team engine and maybe give me a little education on the subject.
I know that the exhaust and intake ports on the sleeve will need to line up with the exhaust on the fuel slots on the crank case.

Neal, PM'd you

Yes it will work just fine , differences r minor

P5
 

My wrist clip came out on my p5xlt the other day and I'm sure you can figure out the rest :flaming: Anyways, Im going to try to repair it and I wanted to know is the crank and PSR compatable from the older version p5 from 2006? I know someone who has an older version FS and he says it just needs a crank. I was thinking of using the psr from his engine if its compatable with mines or just using my crank in his engine if it a work. Thanks in advance.

Hi.

Just checked Martin Bayers setup from the 3. Czech National:

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=227&setup=xb9

He was running a Novarossi Plus4 C engine instead of his Nvision engines?? Has he changed engine brand?

Question regarding 4 shoe clutch setup
 

oops. wrong forum.

Should work perfectly

Ygpm Monty.

Hi,
I got a used plus 4c team which I have been trying to make my buggy engine.

I have sidewinder 20% fuel. What do the gurus say?
Do I need to change fuel brands and percentage (my lhs carries sidewinder 20% but I can get other brands if necessary) what shim stack up should I use for the head if I run the 20%.

I ran the plus 4c last week but the engine struggled and would die with a pop sound (like a small shot) when it came to temp and then starting was difficult. Temp was about 210 which is not hot and there was lots of smoke so I dont think it was running lean. I later learnt on these forums that I could have done few mistakes.
- run the os p3 plug which I read is not recommended although could work as long as I do not switch back. rite??
- buying a used engine whose history I dont know
- maybe the 20% fuel and not changing the shim stack height.

my local track gurus think that the engine had dirt go through it causing scratches on the piston sleeve which is consistent with the engine wanting to die when it comes to temp. I tore the engine up and could not see any scratches really but a guess a trip to rayA racing sleeve restoration services should eliminate this doubt.

What do you guys think my problem is?

Thanks!!
 

Like to thank Paul Ciccarello with NOVAROSSI!! He brought Tyler onto the team for rest of the season and all next season!! We plan to do NOVAROSSI well!! Good luck to all of our teammates!!:nod:

Ok let me stop you right there.
I've been where you are now.
I bought a lightly used Plus 21-4c.
I brought it to the track. Kept flaming out. Had all sorts of problems, the local gurus "helped" me with my tuning.
Except they don't know how to tune a Novarossi engine.
Went on the forums here. People were reluctant to answwer, guess they've heard it before too many times. All they kept saying was "average woman tune" over and over.

And they were right.
So I went to the track and made an extreme effort to lean out the bottom more than I was comfortable with, and minimize the idle gap.
What a massive change that made.

What I think happens when the bottom end is way too rich is it skips a cycle, so you think it's idling good but it sounds real bad and then will die after a while and also on the track if you go off throttle and hammer it again.
Basicly it's almost like the engine is skipping a beat, and that loads it up on fuel, I think. I'm no expert, but that's how I imagined it happening.

Once you have leaned the bottom out more than you are comfortable with, you are going to have to open up the top end needle a bit otherwise you will get bottom-end bogging/choking which will trick you into thinking it is too lean on the bottom, while in fact the top end needle is causing this low end bog.

So my advice to you is:
lean the bottom end
minimize idle gap
richen top end
run 25% w/9% oil not 11% oil

Ignore the "gurus" and do some learning!

+1/2 :)

Not sure about 9% oil in 25% nitro fuel. In 30% it should be ok.

Don't run 20% nitro in a Novarossi engine -unless its brand new. You can't (or at least I can't ;) ) get the tuning right. You can set the HSN and LSN spot on, but when you are in the slower parts of the track and not going WOT, the engine will load up.

Go with 25% nitro, 0,7 mm head shims and Novarossi C5TGC or C6TGC glowplug.

Has anyone tried the new Nova SS 9886 pipe on a plus 4BTT? I just bought one and was wondering what kind of power and runtime people are getting versus 9901 and 2096 which I have already. Thanks for any help.

On my Clocked BTT it absolutely screams...... on the straights it was hitting 42 000 RPM....... Bottom end is also off the charts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEgneqv26F0

this feels absolutely amazing on the track, has effortless power to clear the jumps, can have the clutch stalled very low, usually gets over 10 minutes/talk..and has a top end to send the Speeds packing with their tails between their legs ..........these 4 port Nova's are awesome with the right touch..........

This engine really surprised me in the last few outings.....I had no idea one of these could perform so strongly....


v the 2096 and 9901 there is no contest..the 2096 and 9901 detune the engine in the worst way, the 9886 brings it to life....... the difference is astounding......

Thx Neal I am still waiting to mount up that P5 I just got from you. I have been wanting to try the ss 9886 pipe on my stock 4btt. I am going to give it a go this weekend at our labor day race, weather permitting. Do you think my runtimes will suffer switching from a 2096 to the 9886 I am getting a little over 11 minutes at full race pace. Thx

runtimes should not change much if you get everything dialed in properly............ I have not tested it on a stock BTT, but on my modified it works amazing.......

nice edit

I read it before the edit btw

yes, I did rethink what I posted and decided to word it a bit differently.... no harm, no foul intended...:)


however doesn't change my thoughts on this tweaked little 4 port gem, 4 stroke like grunt off the bottom, and 7 port like top end, ......badass ! :nod::nod::nod:..

What a shame the 9886 isn't EFRA allowed :cry: I really loves my 086

yeah....you dont even want to know what I think about EFRA ! LOL..

thankfully over on this side of the pond we can usually run whatever we want...9886 rocks !!!!

Yep
 

I like my 9853ss pipes the best, but I have not tried all the pipes or anything, I just know that pipe works for me.

One thing on engines. I recently had a couple flamouts and decided to get to the bottom of it. it wasn't the engines, well one time it was too lean on the bottom haha, that was me. I had small air bubbles in the fuel line. Usually I couldn't care less if bubbles were in the line, usually not an issue, but I checked the fuel lines, no holes or tears, the tank seemed fine, no unusual leaks or anything, so I sat there and thought, hmm, what about the fuel nipple on the tank. The one on the back side closest to the engine. Hmm. I've had a few loose ones pop up over the years and bingo. It wasnt really loose, just wasnt tight, so I went to put some gasket sealer on it, nope the tube dried up solid as a, well as a solid piece of rubber. Next up the jb weld, it was still good, although the cap was welded on it, and leaked out the top of the cap. what is it with JB weld and gasket maker. I can never keep it around.

Anyway I put a very small ammount of JB weld on the threads and reinstalled the nipple and hopefully it will be sealed. Just a tip i've learned over the years. the fuel nipple takes a beating :lol: and is in a spot that is hard to see and usually is the last thing checked. it never hurts to put something on it to seal it properly. It's an easy fix. I used to always do that even on a new tank, but I guess I got lazy.

Amen :nod:

EDIT: Have to ask: Where can I read in the ROAR and /or IFMAR pipe lists, that 9853 an 9886 are allowed for ROAR approved races?

9.2.4.2 A ROAR or IFMAR approved muffler or tuned pipe must be used in all ROAR sanctioned events.

Other than some JP pipes and some Asian pipes there is not much difference between EFRAs and IFMARs pipe lists.


EFRA approved pipe list

IFMAR approved pipe list

ROAR approved pipe list (from 2009)

Try the crono 2032 on the +4`s. you'll be amased ;-)

I have 4 nip 2032 , they are badass !

Where are these pipes for sale looked on the web and nothing?

086 pipe on +4
 

I've been using an 053 pipe on my Plus 4 engine and it runs good but I would like to tame the bottom a bit and get more top end, is it worth trying the 086 pipe?. I run the motor on a buggy and my local track has a 200ft straightaway.

Thanks in advance, jb

what thinking goes into choosing a pipe based on its construction for what you want out of the engine pipe combo and where can I find detail about the construction of pipes.. If find selecting a pipe based on someone elses experience being rather subjective although I consider words from Maximo and Houston to be words of wisdom from the engine gods.lol!

i bought all i found :D

i keep them for special occasions ;)

Ohhhhhh. Looks like I am on the hunt for one then.