I cant believe you are still arguing over glowplugs LOL :nod::nod::nod:.... Some people here obviously got something a little extra to prove or something...:confused:

My take on it is this.... I Have seen heads leak for crossing over plugs, but that was on the old GRP Ninja`s.......... I personally run Nova or Werks plugs and so do 90% of my locals............. I Have however recently seen several people run OS plugs in the Nova`s......... I told them it would damage the head,....one did not believe me and gave me a button to measure... upon measuring I could measure absolutely zero changes in the Nova button from running a OS plug............So either he did not damage the head, or the damage is so minute that we cannot visibly see it or measure it........So pretty hard for me to accept anything as fact if it lacks any validated proof.....

Now if somebody can actually show some physical proof I may change my stance on this...but so far all I see is Monty beating his chest how its fact, but like usual offers absolutely zero proof other than `because I said so `....Monty dude, I don't care what you say, until you offer some tangible evidence one way or the other your just whistling Dixie as usual ...

Myself I don't care much, I have nothing to prove or gain and obviously the guys using the OS plugs are running great and that is all that matters to me in the end....If someone does manage to damage a head button they can also contact me and we can give them a good deal on a replacement button....We are very well stocked here at CRE and are always willing to help, even when someone does something we don't recommend....

I Am eagerly awaiting to see what Rex finds....as he is well tooled and capable of measuring any changes that may be made to the head button by running OS plugs..... I will take what Rex says over what anyone says simply because Rex is an actual tool and die maker with proper measuring equipment and techniques....If he can`t find a measurable change then it does`t exist..and if there is a change, he will find it.... I was unable to detect any change myself...


And to be clear, we sell and recommend Nova plugs in our Novarossi engines........:):)

Thank you for your valuable input Monty.

Now I'm going to go put a Ford engine in my Chevy truck, and then I'll take it to the Chevy dealer when it has an engine problem and tell them to fix it.

Funny thing is that there are really two different topics of discussions going on over the plug dealio , one is that os plugs work in nova engines ,of course they do , that was never argued , the other is that they deform the nova head buttons which i guarantee they do , i dont need measurements (its actually a very hard measurement to make) as it it is on the ledge where the seal happens

Run an os plug in your nova head button (your decision) , run your engine for a while , puull plug out , run your fingernail in the combustion bowl , you will feel that the end of the tapered seal area now has been pushed in , now run a novarossi plug in the button , you will see that end of the taper on the plug doesnot meet up with the head buttons combustion bowl at the end of the taper

Happy motorin'

Enjoy your novarossi made engine however you feel suit , viva la nova!

Just trying to make others aware of potential damage when they use OS plugs. Again, OS plugs will work fine if that is all you use.

Fun "FACT" for the day: One of our local Novarossi Factory drivers was told by novarossi to use two different buttons. One for C5tgc and the other for C6tgc.
and they have the exact taper so i told him that it didnt make any sense. but who am i to say the factory is wrong.

You guys can run what you want I have decided that I am going to just put in a helicoil and run a 4 stroke plug :D

I've decided that the guys that want to run OS plugs will and those of us that want to run Nova, or similar, plugs will. To each his own. As long as my Nova runs like a champ with the Nova Plugs, I will continue to purchase Nova plugs with each order so I have stock. I don't know how much an OS plugs cost but a Nova is probably only a couple $ more. TO EACH HIS OWN.

I can tell you this, the Nova's that run at our track always run strong and finish heats and mains. BTW all these motors have only had Nova plugs in them.

So the grand solution to the "plug dilemma" is, you can run OS plugs if you start and stay with them(and you may even have a better idle and wider tuning window), but you can't switch back to non-OS plugs once you've had one in. Everything's clear then.

EXACTLY :nod:

the proof is in the pudding...

i guess...

mmmmmmm pudding :nod:


pistachio please:D


novarossi rocks!!!

Damm it

I got it wrong

Hi uwikz you go for next nats??? GL :)

@uwikz ahahha you love that nova price too. But keep the old carb instead the new one. 10$ cheaper and headache free ahahaha.

I got rust in my crankshat. Can I use rust remove fluid to clean it? I'm not sure it safe or not? There's no coating in 4btt with bad fuel and bad maintenence mine get rusted in 3 days after race

You can take the crank out and clean pickup a can of corrosion x Granger sells awesome stuff. Its a excellant lubricant and it binds to metal it also clean the internals. I started using cause my Werks engine would rust so bad it started to flake this stuff cleaned my internal, stopped all rusting while lubricating its save on a ramped crank also.

REDS has a spy in the Novarossi thread!
 

Read this article from Neobuggy:

REDS "41001" header

Reds Racing new Manifold
Engine specialists Reds Racing have announced the release of a new 'double bend' manifold, designed by their R&D department, in cooperation with REDS' Team Drivers. The new polished mainfold doesn't only look great, but more importantly has a function - improving fuel economy, additionally it provides a very smooth and manageable powerband which in particular suits mid to low grip tracks, the result evident in laptimes. The manifold can be used with all and any of Reds' pipes - EFRA 2099, EFRA 2069 and the EFRA 2034. Available now, part # CL210091.

Looks similar to Novarossi 41001 :nod:

This was actually what I wrote about the 41001 header two years ago... ;)

Yep we are the same here in OZ EFRA pipes only at sanctioned events and since i run most of them i wont wast my time with a pipe not on the list....

I chop and change between 2096/9901 but mostly run the Mugen short Nova header on the XB9 (just keeps every thing in the middle) but some times put the 41001 depending on track conditions....

Cider vinegar.....drop your crank in it for 30 minutes and ALL the surface rust will be gone.....

You beat me to it.

Ahh the good old 'Waller Power Adapter'...damn I remember this combo so very well circa 2003. RB WS7 w/9886 and 41001 with the Waller in between the pipe and header. Holy balls those we some of the loudest and fastest engines I ever drove! They also drank fuel at an astonishing rate. 8 mins was about impossible unless it was running 300 and then is was so ballistic one could barely keep it on the track. The 9886 is still a fuel hog today compared to the 2096 and 9901. But there is nothing like the sound of a 7 port with 9886 way up on the pipe. BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAP!

My crank also has rust, I was wondering if white vinegar would work as well. Or is cider vinegar the only way the rust will go? Also what's the cure for a loud pipe or is an engine that is breaking in louder than usual?

Thanks

Is the 2096 a better choice for the plus4 over the 9901? What will it do for me over the 9901. Thanks.

less bottom, more top........

Cider vinegar only...

a loud engine means ur pipe is just a loud pipe.

...or u have a leak of some sort, check ur exhaust gaskets.

May I ask why cider vinegar only? They seem to be available to be in the same percentage in acidity.

I'm no scientist...I've tried both and only the cider worked....crazy:D

Alright thanks then!

Depending on track Conditions, the 2096 may feel like it has more bottom end because of less wheel spin. I am clearing the same jumps with room to spare with the 2096 over the 9901. Plus you get better run time.

Can you use cider vinegar to clean the crankcase, sleeve, piston, and head button as well?

Yep and bearings that have rust as well....just make sure to rinse everything afterwards and lube with your preferred assembly oil/bearing oil.

Thanks.

BTW, wheres that Proto 9 footage?:sneaky:

How to reduce the weight AND lower the CG
 

Hi all.

Here is my Team engine - now a lot lighter and lowered CG.

The original Novarossi head weighs 103 gram. The head from my HPI Pro F3.5 HPI part #101589 weighs 72 gram and is lowered a lot (7 mm lower than the Novarossi head). The 4 screw holes have the same position, so why not put the HPI head on my Nova? All it tooked was a little bit of grinding on the Nova house. VOILA the worlds first NOPI engine! :D

Life is simple!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8309/8...46b61c25_z.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8039/8...eef1cae7_z.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8454/8...c007c012_z.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8320/8...cee42a23_z.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8180/8...bd1ea086_z.jpg

Nice! Lets hope it don't run hot.

Hi. Yearh, thought about that, but its fall now here in Denmark, and the temp is already around 10º C. Going to race that engine next weekend and also in March where its even colder. With that head I shouldn't have to worry about wrapping the head to keep up the temp :tire:

Hey guys, I have a Plus-4btt that has been absolutely bullet proof and been running fine for about 4 straight weekends until yesterday. I am running A Werks #6 plug in it with the stock Mugen clutch with the same OFNA 086 pipe I have been running this combo for 2 months. I have about 4 gallons on it. I was 4 minutes into the second 5 minute qualifier. I really have not touched the needles besides an hour here and there on the HSN each weekend and no flameouts over the last 2 months. The track had a long stretch and we twist the motors pretty good but all of a sudden the thing will die as soon as I let off the gas at the end of the straight 4 minutes into the heat. Motor was running perfect, nice and crisp, and only about 255 when i temped it.

I richened the top up a little bit, set it down to get 1 last lap in, made the whole 40 sec. lap and once again at the end of the stretch same thing when I let off the gas it just dies.

Repleced the plug and richened the LSN and increased idle gap, did the same thing in the 3 heat except earlier and in the 1st lap. Only dies at the end of the straight from being wide open for a good 3 to 4 seconds and then letting off to make sweeper curve? Idles fine, sounds great but keeps dying? I did not check it at the track, but maybe guessing front bearing? Need to tear into it tonight or tomorrow any ideas? We tuned on it the whole 3rd qualifier and the same thing no matter what we did. Also tried a #5 (hot) plufg and still did it?

Any ideas besides bearing or what would cause it to die after wide open throttle would help?

Could be a number of things, and you touched on a few. Have you tried opening up your idle gap a tad?

about a month ago, a friend of mine had the same issue with his nova. It seemed to run good and idle good but flamed at the end of the straight. He just changed the front bearing so he knew that was fine. Changed the glow plug from a nova 6 to o.s p4. Fixed it, ran awesome. Some say that it will harm the head button but he hasnt had problems and the engine is just more reliable. Last week we raced at gas champs where he helped out some others with nova 4btt's that had flame out problems all weekend. Changed to p4's and they ran good and didnt flame. something to try.

Try to richen your LSN some more. My btt was doing the same thing. Ran fine on my regular medium sized track but when I went to a larger track with a much longer straight it would flame out when I got off the trigger at the end of the straight to turn.

check for dirt in the front bearing........ remove the bearing, pull the shields and do a rinse test on a white paper and see if any dirt flows out......Your at 4 gallons and my guess is your engine needs a little TLC..she probably has a little wear and tear that needs to be addressed...

I am going to tear into it here in a little while. I have the 5 out of 6 race in a points series this weekend and want to get that engine running so I am going to order a new bearing and maybe a new rod, replace and see what happens. We really played with it for a few minutes at the track and richened it up quite a bit and the LSN if I remember correctly and still did it but I might be wrong. I am going to tear it down in a little while and see if I see anything in it. I have thought about trying an OS plugs since I have plenty but as a last resort.....

Check your front bearing. Start the engine, spray nitro spray behind the flywheel at the front bearing, if it shuts off immediately, you have a bad front bearing and that is most likely the problem. Also, check your rear bearing for excessive play.