^what he said...just don't spray it directly onto the case as the sudden change in crankcase temp will cause it to die as well.

Ok, the front bearing test failed for one. So I pulled it apart and it looked clean inside and the piston and sleeve look really good. Motor was still pretty difficult to turn over by hand. Clean as a whistle inside but I will pull the bearing tomorrow to see if any fine dirt has made its way in. I think the bearing leak had just started and relatively small.

Secondly, I get the bone head of the year award. I pulled off the air filter assembly and there was no venturi in it! I pulled it all off and cleaned everything and I guess forgot to put the 6.5 venturi back in it. That is the dumbest thing I have ever done. My problem was 2-fold. Front bearing starting to leak and a dumb #$% human error. It was tuned for 6.5 and didn't have it in there so no wonder it was lean. It was not lean bogging though and running great until it flamed once you let off the gas. Anyway, I need to get a bearing and replace it before this weekend. I think I should be good. I feel confident after looking at it everything is okay just a really dumb user error I will never make again!!!

New rule also. All my engines get new bearings no question asked every 2 gallons from here on out, maybe overkill but that is what I am doing.....

Make sure your rear bearing is nice and tight with no excessive play as well.

You can go 3 gallons on bearings, if not 4 or 5.

I did, real nice and smooth with no play but I am thinking about replacing it too....

You don't have to replace it if its nice and tight.

Are you saying you should replace a rear bearing by the three to four gallon mark cause they normally last that long. What type of motor preventable maintenance do you do and how often do you change your rod and bearings. how do you determine if they are out of specifications.

Bearings
 

The front and rear bearings last forever. I've been running Nova for a long time and have only had one front bearing go out on a p5. The dual sealed Nova bearing is really tough and so are the rear bearings. If you take apart the engine every few gallons and clean it really good then it sould last a long time. I have engines that have been resised, or had a new p/s installed and those bearings never caused any issues with tuning.

the bearing life is directly related to the conditions the engine is run in..if you run in dusty conditions, especially fine dust, the bearings will need to be changed much more often then someone who runs in a clean environment......17011 is an awesome bearing, but it will not fully protect you in some conditions, dirt will still pass thru it......... So if you run in dirty conditions change your bearings often....

Also engine RPM will play a huge role in how long the rear bearing lasts...If your run a moderate engine on a medium track your likely never going to have any issues... However if you run a high RPM engine on a larger track then your going to see more rapid wear on the rear bearing..especially if they are steel bearings......Bearing life and engine RPM are closely related......A stock steel bearing will last much longer on a 33 000 RPM engine them it will on a 43 000 RPM engine,...... guys who say their bearings last 10 gallons simply do not push their engines as hard as the guys burning down bearings every couple of gallons......... How hard you push the engine and how dirty the conditions you run in are what determines how long the bearings will last............... baby the engines and keep the RPM's down and always run in clean environment and bearings can last the lifetime of the engine..............However take a engine buzz it in the 40K range on a dirty dusty track and you can kill the bearings in 1 gallon with ease.......

Yeah and I admit I like to twist mine pretty good. I run them all 250+ and some 280. The track we ran on was super dusty and huge this past weekend! It was the second time I have been there in the past month so it did it in. A big 150 ft. straight with a sweeping turn before it to build up speed in arid dusty conditions probably did it. Upon further review of the engine it did suck in a little dirt but very little and piston sleeve look ok. I think we caught it early and no damage done to it.

do a rinse out of the front bearing please !!

I am looking to buy 2 P5 motors. One for buggy and one for truggy. Can someone suggest pipe combos. Currently ran werks and have the following pipes 2013 & 2058. Quickly looked threw this thread and not to many running werks pipes on the P5. Suggestions welcome!

Thats how long my rear bearing lasted before needing replacing. Stock front bearing was changed at ~2 gallons.

Rod was changed 1 1/2 gallons ago along with a new piston. Rod was changed because I had a runaway and the rod broke and piston chipped, sleeve was fine.

I plan on changing my front bearing again in 2-3 gallons or when it gets loose and rear bearing when it gets loose.

Thats a lot of bearing changes.

what is the best way to clean out an engine?

No its not, only changed the once.

Take apart, spray with nitro spray all the parts, re assemble with some kind of oil (I use after run oil to assemble) so engine doesnt start dry.

Where did you manage to get a piston only. I have 2 very lonely sleeves in need of pistons.

Neal had a btt team piston and I bought it from him. Don't know if he has more, I think he just had one.

your plan to change it again in ~2 gallons is.

Read my post again. Front bearing was changed at 2 gallons because stock P5 bearings are known to fail prematurely.

I plan on changing the front when it gets loose, maybe it will go 4 or 5 gallons before getting loose, but I like my engine to be in top condition.

I run in dusty conditions as well.

Take the engine part including carb meaning needles and boot. Then i use denatured alcohol then compressed air . hit with alcohol the corrosion X or any good ARO. I also clean the button and reside off the top of the piston. I use a very light compound for this some use toothpaste. When I assemble the needles I use losi oring grease on all the orings its green tube or green slim from AE.

Both of the werks pipes you have should work, The 2058 I don't know much about, but seems that many like that pipe on a lot of different mills.

The 2013 I do know a little more about. Usually used in Truggies (though some do like it in a buggy). Tons of power, but runtimes are a bit lower. Very unique sounding pipe for sure.

So both of those should get you by for a while.

The usual reccomended Nova pipes for buggy and truggy:

9901 for Buggy
2096 for Truggy

Either the 021 header or 029 header (mostly used in for the Mugen's or where space is tight).

The 9853 in a truggy makes a lot of power, but doesn't always get the best milage (like the 2013).

A P5 in a buggy is a bit over kill on the bottom end, but with some clutch setup changes and the right pipe/header, will work. I know a few who prefer that mill in a buggy.

I'm sure there are other pipes/headers that can be used/reccomended that will work better or have the "feel" you want, but the 9901 and 2096 with the 021/029 header should get you started in the right direction for Buggy and Truggy.

I run the 2013 in Truggy ... great low end power with run times about 10 minutes. Keep in mind my P5 has just over a gallon on it so I suspect run times will increase as the P5 gets completely broken in.

Thanks! great info

The 2058 is fine for buggy, 2013 for truggy.

It is a monster in buggy however, I love my P5. I ran one for 2 years in a buggy until I finally used it up. I then switched to a +4 in hopes of some more run time. I like the +4, was tougher to break in and has pretty good power, not a monster. I just picked up another P5 for a back-up and club race weekends. Will save the +4 for those bigger events. If you run the P5 in buggy, go with the white 6mm restrictor.

Hey Guys/Gals,
What are the tell tale signs of an old plug that needs replacing?
Also I've had the car stall a couple times when stuck against something waiting to be marshalled (not upside down), Also after restarting the car and blipping the throttle it can stall, any thoughts? From MX experience I'd say low speed mixture, but this is my first Nitro (Nero Toro).

Thanks,
Michael.

Plugs are a regular thing to replace. If your engine is tuning well, stalls a lot, and if you hold the glowplug on an ignitor and it doesnt glow bright means you need a new plug.

Maybe your idle is too low, or low speed too rich.

Replace the plug first and see if that will solve your problems.

engine
 

Teufel - Always got a good thing to say.

Well, I just stripped the threads on the crank on my Werks .28. I actually started
to get the tune to work out. Temps were coming down a bit. Then, the clutch bell let loose. The nut stripped the first 3 or 4 threads on the shaft. Man.. That engine was really getting crazy low end.

So. I am planning to put the P5 in. I didn't want to because I wanted to finish getting the .28 running right. Anyway. I guess I'll have to not break it in.

I'll let you know how it goes.


BTW - After all the mod work, need I flush the engine out and seal it. This is my first Nova Rossi. Are they pretty much set to run and no engine sealing is needed??

Has anyone tired the Nova Rossi Roma .25 in a truggy???

YES !!!!

very nice engine

I second that notion

Roma is ridiculous , will not be easy on the drivetrain! :lol:

Roma .25
 

Well, how does a Houston Mod P5XLT compare?? (Thanks Monte)

For a truggy??

tell me about it...

Roma
 

Hi. will the Roma be any different on the drivetrain than a .28 engine??

Thanks

i could be wrong I'm no expert but the .25 and .28 doesnt get good fuel mileage

ummh.. its all driving and pipe choice.. i was able to go 9 dry on my stock .25 with 2096/21 combo.... which is good for a 7.5 pit stop in my neck of teh woods... i will try the new carb on it.. next season see what that does...:D

on my X7 same track i was able to go 10.5 with fuel in the tank

i had a OS 28 that i was able to go 9 on also with fuel remaining... but that one was modified... and man did it run great...

I still run the Toro Nero in my truggy but will try a Roma next. The Toro has spoiled me :)

i love working with the p5 style engines , they run pretty dam good , need a few upgrades from box stock but still a great engine , they do have a better front bearing in them these days though ;)

:lol: kijana knows first hand :lol:

the roma has BIG balls , decent run times but not a 10+ engine for the most part