Hey mate just ran the Townsville cup last month 6tr with the p5xlt 9853 pipe on 30% nitro x99t plug was half turn in on hi set and just in from flush on the bottom I felt there was a bit more but played it safe
Cheers

Hello everyone, I'm a begiiner in 1/8 onroad competition, and would like to hear your opinion abou Kappo .21 engine
http://www.novarossi.it/2012/index.p...c/kappo21.html

Will it be enough? My track is a medium to long track, I'm not a very experienced driver but want a motor to make good results.

Here is a video of the track -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CslJnRo5eaM

So guys, question..
Have I diagnosed this correctly if I think it is a leaky front bearing?

-P5XLT engine freshly pinched, only break-in done, new conrod, good crank
-irratic idle, sounds like motorboating "woooorrr wooorrr wooorrr" rather than one continuous stable sound
-at first engine ran fine, but towards the end of the day kept choking, despite being ran sufficiently lean
-seems to be carburated fine, but then after 1/4th lap on the track chokes for no apparent reason
-engine has truckloads of compression obviously
-front bearing is cheapo €4 ebay bearing

I'm thinking this means the cheapo front bearing has let go? Even if it has only less than 1 gallon on it.

This is the off-road forum you are asking in. I am sure some of the guys on here race both, but you might get a broader opinion asking in the on-road forum

whoevers idea it was to put one of those cheap ass ones off of ebay on there it was a bad one

an engine wont tune in worth a crap if it has a bearing you can see daylight through ;)

check hsn for blockage also while youre troubleshooting

Nova fr. Bearing 17011 :nod: you could have other problems such as air leaks from fuel system or carb. I always pressure test those under water to be certain.
That would rule out most lean conditions.

What's a ball park btta needle seeting
I run 30 vp 11 percent

What's a ball park btta needle seeting
I run 30 vp 11 percent

Running the white 6mm venturi I'm just under flush on both high and low.

Cheers
Michael

Yea cool thanks bud I haven't run the 6 mm one yet

I put my hands up, take me off to rehab, I've been a bad bad boy!

I just thought I'd save a few $$$ on the cheapass ebay bearing, actually I got 4pcs for €4.. so that should have been a clue. Lasted 2.5-3 litres, so not even a gallon! But hey, lesson learnt.

Have ordered proper bearing now from Amain.

17011 is the best front bearing period

dare I say this on the nova thread but the front bearing from reedy is actually very good in its sealing capability also

viva la novarossi !!

Well the thing is, to install the 17011 then I need to tap the front of the collet on my Hudy tool, well that's what I think anyway, since it protrudes 0.3mm.

So I've ordered some NTN 607LH the blue one that's used on the XZ-B. I know LLH is NTN-speak for special seal against debris entering. What do you think about that bearing?

Or you can just get a washer that's big enough to fit over the centre race... Or do what I did get a piece of lexan an ream out a hole to fit over the centre race

that's a brilliant idea!

Me brilliant.. Awe shucks... :lol:

Not too hard ;)

Other Q, got a Nova carb off P5XL that's been laying around on my table for about 2 months, now when I try the action on the slide it's like it has a notch sort of halfway, what would be the cause of this? could there be any oil gunked up, or does it mean it could have taken a knock or something?

undo the barrel stop screw (idle) and remove the barrel , look around the slide recess's where the stop screw rides for damage . often times some good "lawn darts" while on throttle will wreak havoc on the slide barrel as well as the rod , the piston , etc. , etc. ;)

take it all apart and reoil it anyway Elvind , it should be smooth again

I took it apart, and the slide looks fine, moves fine, everything seems fine. But as soon as I put the rubber boot back on it develops that notchy feel mid way through the motion. Does that mean the rubber boot is at fault?

Oil it up good and work it out , should free up , push it all different ways as you work in and out

Monty. Did you just use a drill bit to open up the Hudy "cup" so it hits the outer race prior to the inner race when pushing the bearing in?

Big countersink bit

I'm looking for a Novarossi 41021 header set NIP. Pm me if you know where I can find one for a good deal.

I got em , amain has em , absolute has em

Guys I need a quick question answered probably been asked a million times . I have 21-4 btt and would like to find out what's the best pipe combo ? I need good low end for the triple right after the tight corner ,not to much run up . thanks

41021 with 9901 or even the werks 2058. With the 9901 you could end up with to much wheel spin and breaking traction if your not easy on the throttle. I run the 41021/2096 everywhere on my Btt because it reduces wheel spin and the buggy just squats and goes. little softer on the bottom then the 9901 or the 2058 and more top end.

Hey thanks , I started with and dynamite 086 had good low end but fuel mileage wasn't that great . Will try the 9901 next time out .

And a 2032 pipe and medium header is PERFECT for your Novarossi. A little bit sad its very thin :-)

Get hold of Imbue in the Radiosistemi thread, He can get the 2032 in SS Version. 2032 is a blend between 2096 and 9901. Highly recomended. Good on fuelmilage too :-)

What would you recommend for a Crono RS-5. I am currently running a long square header/9886 pipe. I would think a 41021/2096 would be a good choice as well.

Is the NR 21-4T a good truggy engine? I can't keep up with all the 4-whatever engines.. If I recall, the BTT is the right one for truggy though, right?.. Anyway, have a chance at a deal on a 21-4T.., but mostly run truggy..

Um
 

If you are talking about a plus 4 or btt in a truggy then no.

I would personally prefer the plus 21-4c team in truggy over btts

Maxysfuel.com

Put a 9853 on that thing and be happy

The 21-4T will have more bottom than BTT, and I agree with kgombe. Strap a 9853 to it and it will be fine. I personally ran that same engine in a truggy for 1.5 years with 41021/9853 pipe/header combo. I was very pleased with overall power and top end in truggy. Use a stiff clutch also. I used stock mugen clutch, dynamite shoes, and 1.1mm springs.

hay guys, im planning to get p5. and there is p5 and p5 w/ new carb. whats the different? is there any problem without the new carb? thx

I apologize in advance for my complete and utter laziness for not reading the thread.

I want to know what's up with the new carbs and what's up with Drake being able to pit at 16.5 seconds in buggy and 18.5 in truggy.

Tell me now! lol

What's up Ben! I asked a while ago and nobody really had any info about them so your question is not redundant.
I figured they were produced for runtime but don't think many people have them so reveiew are 0 at the moment.