hi.. all novarossi loverss..:cool::cool:

i have some questions from you guys since i'm new to RC and a little confuse about tuning breaking in and many more :smile::smile:.

so these are my questions :

1. Choosing the right glow plug. I'm from tropical wheather its about 30 - 37 Celcius. and i see from the novarossi that i should use c7tgc for my engine but some says i should use c5tgc i'm a bit confuse. so i finally decide to use c6tgc wich in the mid. but i'm curious if i go to c5 or c7 how that will effect the performence of my motor.

2. from my experience the novarossi glowplug is harder to heat is it true?? my friends says only use a full charge glow heater to heat novarossi glowplug. half full wont go. any tips for that :blush::blush::blush:

3. the copper shim. i'm total noob for this thing and googling around not helping at all. how to make a good tune for this part :D:D:D.

4. in my case (4btt) my standard LSN is wayy sunk is it fine? it's may be only one turn from full turn. my engine quite new but it's already that lean for LSN any clue??

5. from the manual of my kit (mbx6r) i should go for 0.5 to 1 mm for the idle but from what i learn and watch idle will be vary to suit your HSN and LSN. i don't get this one. since i flip my car frequently i go for 1mm so the car won't go out since there only few marshal in my track. how to adjust the idle any clue??

6. venturi restrictor. when i go for big venturi when i go for small one. my carb is a new carb any helpp..

7. foam filter. i use a motocros oil for foam filter wich is very2 cheap compare to rc specific oil. is it fine? i use grease too for the side and the screw to seal my filter so finally no air from side. is it fine to do that.

8. my track is tight and have jumps that needed full torque to get pass the last jump any clue for the gearing i'm helpless with the gearing system i use 13/44 standard for my car (sorry out of engine topic).

9. breakin procedure. frankly speaking i never breaking in my engine my self but i'm willing to try it. how to get a good breakin for my motor 4btt tune. i know there are lot's of methods out there but i'm not sure wich one to choose. and i don't have that engine heater so is it ok for me to go. i'm thinking to use the afterrun oil so the slip and the piston will slip a little and loosen the glow plug a bit. after that i have no clue still wandering though i have another 4btt that haven't got breakin. that wil be my testing engine for breaking in my self.

10. the pipe and manifolds. i'm using mugen car. from what i know the manifold for mugen diffrent from others. my track is tight so wich pipe and manifold to choose. it will be a big help if you can explain why choosing it instead of the others.


so that's all my questions guyss helpp will be appreciated for i'm a noob in RC. and i love to learn. waww it's 10 questions for you guys i hope you'll love it.:blush::blush::blush::blush:

u added a .10mm shim to the factory .80mm shim stack? bad idea

remove that shim and use a c5tgc for break in

answers in between

great thankss Huston and all

my new engine has 24065 carb from the beginning, i think should go 24063 or 24069. wich one is easier for newbie like me.

plus 21-4 btt huh? hmmm interesting

which market ? not usa?

i havent seen any of them that have came with 24065 yet but.........

Tried that just now. Same thing. Its not the plug. The engine is impossible to start with any other setting other than 5 out LSN and 3.5 out HSN, even then the plug heater need to be attached at all times.....

Never had anything like this happen to OS engine....should listen to the others and stick with OS. Now i have very expensive paper weight.

Just following the manual that came with the engine. Add shim if ambient temp rise. Shall i remove it? To my understanding with real engine, thicker head gasket will reduce compression, very useful if tuning engine in hot weather reducing knock.

I think He is from the same region as me, south east asia. I am from Jakarta and my nova is exactly the same as his. Plus 4 btt with 24065 carb. And yes i also noticed the same thing, the LSN screw seems to be wayyyy in, even with 5 out turn, definitely far from being flush.

Yollie, please keep me updated with your engine. I had massive problem with my paperweight....oops I meant novarossi engine :P

Really really frustrated today....and really miss my old trusty OS....So I decided to heck with it and tried to blow my new nova up... I started it up, set everything to factory, left the glow plug heater on then gave it full throttle for a minute on box....At that point, I really didn't care if the engine blew up.....temp climbed sky high to 302F... shut down the engine, let it cool....Then voila!!! MAGICALLY after the attempt to blew my engine up NOW my engine would idle without the glow plug heater attached!!!??? What give??? Is manufacturing tolerance of Nova really is that bad??? Seriously, not trying to trash nova or anything, not mentioning OS which is million times easier than this, but I've seen Chinese engine with so much better manufacturing tolerance than this Nova. and yes, i used comp heater and always pre heat for 20-25 min to 180-190 before starting...

A side story, I mentioned about adding 0.1 shim, the original nova shim that I bought actually needed to be reamed on the inside edge to fit, once again, is manufacturing tolerance of nova engine really is that bad??..

Before that crazy attempt to blow up my engine, my engine is next to impossible to start in other than factory setting needle (5 out LSN 3.5 out HSN), and 100% impossible to idle without glow plug heater attached....I've changed the plug 4 times!! Switch fuel, richening, leaning, undo plug dump excess fuel for like 100 times, I've tried everything I know and I came from many years of glow engine experience with touring, heli, plane and recently buggy.... Now it idles smoothly, nice trail of smoke and very responsive to tune change.....Now on 5th tank with slightly rich slow run....

The scary part is, this is still the break in attempt, I've heard horror stories about Nova keep on flaming out during run......

Most people I know that come from OS to Nova have a bit of trouble dialing in their engines. It seems to me that people who run OS simply don't know how to properly tune an engine, since OS carbs are so easy to use and it takes big adjustments to see a difference (OS carbs). I have OS engines and feel that their carbs prevent you from really getting a crisp tune. Most every person that I see running OS engines run them to fat on the LSN and HSN because they idle down so quickly. A Nova carb requires very small adjustments to see drastic changes...we're talking 1/16 changes, especially on the LSN.

It's not the engine.....anyone who knows anything about this hobby will tell you that Nova are some of the best engines available.

Learn how to tune, listen to what your engine is telling you and check ALL variables before you blame the engine. I would be happy to take your "paperweight" off your hands if you can't/won't learn how to tune it. I'm sure I can get an easy 10 gallons off that engine.....at your expense:ha:

+1 Dan.

Ok, maybe i am too frustrated and just need to blow it off, maybe i got a lemon, who know? But i've tuned YS and.Webra engine on heli before. if you know webra, its one of the infamousliy hard to tune engine on heli. however, if you look closely on my post, i wasnt complaining about tune, i am not up that stage yet. I was merely trying to get the engine to idle without plug heater attached. i wasn't able to do just that before i did my WOT attempt. It did not response to tweaks. Dont you think something is wrong on my engine?

how is that bad manufacturing tolerance... best bet is you go back to OS and have fun...

5 turns out wayyyyy too rich for 24065 carb ;) GUARANTEED

Is that the one on the P5? I noticed when I set my carb to factory settings, 5 turns out on the LSN, it is too rich. Runs just about perfect at 3-3 1/2 turns out.

Yes you have a lemon engine. Not every engine will be perfect, you got a rare lemon engine, please send it to me so I can take it off your hands, I know it must be very annoying for you.

At first I thought this is the case, then I tried leaning it out 1/16 - 1/8 each turn, and as I mentioned before, the engine would not fire up at all if it's not on dead spot on factory which is 5 turn out LSN, with 5 turn out LSN the engine fire up easily but dies the millisecond I removed the glowplug heater...
I went through 3 new plugs thinking it might be the plug, waited an hour to charge up my plug heater too.... Then after I tried WOT up to 302F with plug heater attached (WOT with heater removed also kills the engine), cooled the engine down, heat the engine up, then that's it, problem gone, switched back to the very first plug, worked, so it definitely wasn't the plug..... Now I can start the engine with a single bump with any setting, rich or lean and now I can comfortably start the actual break in process keeping it at 200F with visible smoke trail, idle well normal or upsidedown and very very accepting to tweaks...

Well the actual problem is fixed now and I can see based on what I observed right now that this engine will be better than OS, but I cannot still understand why my engine behaved like it used to be before my crazy WOT attempt?

As for my statement about bad manufacturing tolerances, pardon me Novarossi fans (not directed to you Houston, you were the only one who gave useful response, for that I thank you), but how do you explain the 3001 shim that I purchased wouldn't fit on the head? I tried heating up the shim with cloth iron set on high tried heat gun too but still it wouldn't fit, wasted 3 shims trying it and finally dremelled the last one to fit. How is that not a bad manufacturing tolerance? It was only simple shims... If Novarossi could not make a properly fitting shim, how do I know they don't make wrong tolerance on my engine too? Did I bought a wrong shim size? I don't think so, the part number matches the manual exactly, I bought the whole thing from authorized dealer, sealed with Novarossi seal and the shim was smaller by point of a millimeter....

Don't get me wrong, I do not want to trash Novarossi and I don't think I am trashing it that bad when I blew up my steam on previous posts :p The whole reason for me to buy a Novarossi was what I saw on the track, it sounds, look and perform so much more aggressive than OS definitely, and if I don't like it, I won't be spending my hard earned money on it. But what I experienced was definitely not good.....I heard many horror stories locally about nova engines, yet I still bought it despite the price and the stories, I was thinking if I can tune Webra (had worse hell on this brand but solved it eventually) and OS 4 stroke on heli and plane, I MUST be able to tune Novarossi too...Yes I am a happy camper now after my WOT attempt, but I know it shouldn't be like that...Peace....

Yeah my Lsn is basically flush on my p5 and I'm still breaking it in. Idles really good now

R u sure you didnt purchase the 03001xl shims ;)

The label on the shims says 03001-25, the manual for BTT referred to 03001 / 0.10 mm as optional shim, and this is the shim set the authorized Novarossi gave me when I asked for optional shim set for my BTT when I bought my BTT from them.

Mine is 24065 carb, different... flush means super rich....

All you probably did was loosen the motor up a little with the WOT and that made it easier to idle and run smoother but it only hurt the life because you need to slowly run-in the combustion seal between the piston and sleeve. Novarossi engine have a VERY tight fit when new and can be tough the first couple tanks to get it idiling but I always lean 1/2 turn or more on both needles before first start because factory settings are super rich since they have no idea what fuel, plug, pipe, etc. you are going to use so it is set so it will be rich enough for whatever setup you choose. I have friends who run OS and they are fast and good motors but they buy two motors a year and I buy one Novarossi and it only gets better up to the 7-8 gallon if broke-in right and tuned properly. If you can't get a new Nova to idle or stay running it's too rich 99% of the time so lean it out a hour or two until it holds a decent idle on the box for 3-5 minutes then let it cool refuel and start heat cycle leaning very little as it loosens up follow the break-in bible. Novarossi makes the best motors in the business just ask all the pro champs and sportsman like me who run them! IMO bearings are one of the most important parts of the engine and usually determine the life span of a engine and Novarossi bearings have no equal. Try a 77t odonnell plug if it's real humid might help also. Your not going to much help bashing Nova around here either! Good Luck!

Hi Uwiikz I was an OS fan too b4. and yes we are in same region haha.

but since the drop price in my region makes me want to try novarossi now. after running a few race i found my novarossi its way smoother than OS engine. its easier to control.
now i'm a fan of this engine. and actually i bought some for spare engine.

the only matter is the glowplug is power hunger. its a big problem if i'm practicing a whole day in the track. so i come with 2 heater now ( another battery to charge )

i tried the OS plug but it only damage my button head (great) never ever try to put OS plug to your novarossi engine, it only ruin your button head.

Novarossi or your local dealer?

-25 is for roma

I'm sure novarossi wouldn't make that mistake (wrong size shimm). I think the Local Dealer tricked you for clearance item LOL

You would be amazed. If it is done by Novarossi it is not the first time.

But always use the solder trick if you are not sure of the headclearance.

Hes talking about the i.d. Of the shims

anyone ever run a dynamite 007 with a plus 21-4?

dynamite 007ht pipe isnt bad , very flowing design , mucho bottom , ok mileage

pipe meant for larger displacement like .25 and .28 engines but works great actually

Anyone know when you can buy the new Novarossi 4,7 mm venturi?

thats what i heard Houston, i'm going to try it and see how much i like it

houston, do you do engine rebuilds? i need my speed rebuilt...piston and connecting rod

Novarrossi P8 XLT

195.00€

195.00 EUR = 240.686 USD


http://www.top-options.fr/product_in...oducts_id=2528

I'm going to order a P5 soon. Should I shim for 30% or just leave it and run 25%? My lhs can get either in Byron's.

you're good :nod:

Thanks

I Would like to introduce the CRE Proto 7 .......

custom built 7 port based out of a P5 case, full ceramic bearings..............Engine is fantastic with the strongest, most useable bottom end I have seen from a .21.....Exceptional runtimes and a fantastic top end...this engine is truly badass...... We will have 10 available this week

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...creproto7d.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...creproto7c.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...creproto7b.jpg

+ YouTube Video

mmmmmmmm you think so...LOL!! I think you have a really good idea who am I talking about....LOL!!

Yes I understand this and thank you for taking the time, but mine did not have problem with idling, I had problem with firing it up with other than factory setting or keep it firing with no plug heater attached which I find very strange...

What crank is that?

Engine looks awesome, might pick one up for my truggy.
How much is it gonna be?

I'm confused by this nova manual, is there anything special I need to do to turn the fuel intake to point down or do I just loosen and turn it?