Put a plugged heater on its head

Didn't have this problem with the P5 I replaced it with. Just in case, put a new zip-tie on the air filter, checked the screw for the air filter assembly, all were fine. Replaced the lines as well, same issue.

I don't have a plug for a heater where I'm tuning, so I'm using thick aluminum foil. Would just throwing the heater on unplugged help more than the aluminum foil?

Is the glow plug good?

Brand new glow plug that came with the engine. Coil isn't burnt off or has the end missing, gets red hot. Maybe the planets aren't aligned correctly today. Didn't have any of these issues yesterday.

I checked my carb settings and noticed that at neutral I was holding the carb open by 2-3mm. Readjusted it so that it's open by about a 1mm and I'll check again.

I suspect tuning issue, try reduce the idle gap n lean the LSN to achieve the good idle (big idle gap need rich LSN to compensate). For temperature, just use heat gun to maintain the temp or have to lean out HSN to increase temp

I'll try that out and see. What symptoms of being too rich would I see? For future reference.

Maybe, i believe that CompHeat can be better heat insulator than foil

CompHeater is my next buy. I bought the ProTek one without realizing it was battery powered, now I have no use for it as I have no 3S 5000C lipos laying around :lol:

Surely a lipo is cheaper than a new Comp Heat?...

IMO preheating is overrated.. Yeah it's probably a good idea for the first several tanks, or when the temps outside are cold, but after break-in in normal temps I just put the heater on unconnected to let it warm up faster.. That preheating is some kind of must-do necessity is the RC equivalent of an urban myth afaic.. Alu foil and an old sock or beer cozie over that is probably perfectly fine... The preheaters are nice because that have that little flap in the middle for starting.. But is it worth a 100 bucks?.... ;)

It is a must do for me. I believe it allows me to get longer life out of my engines. But you do what works for you.

I honestly don't believe there is any objective evidence out there at all that preheating extends engine life. I think people think the idea of preheating sounds good so they just go with it. I seriously doubt there's any substance to it at all.

That is why I said do what works for you. I know for a fact it increases life for me and my friends. We have been using one long before they hit the market.

Pre heat during break in period is crucial, imo is a must. U need the sleeve to expand before starting engine.

For normal use, i believe pre heat to make it up to running temp n have the power when it hit running temp.

As for longer engine life, i agreed, especially for crank pin / conrod

Increases life or not.... I like being able to toss the car on the track and be at race temp in 1-2 laps instead of 3-4 minutes ( average lap times are about 30 seconds around here).... With the way temps and humidity plays its stupid little games here, I'd rather be ready to go than have to wait to make an adjustment if I have to...

Luck favors the prepaired:sneaky:

There is still no absolutely clear proof that preheating unequivocally prolongs engine life. People just like the idea because it sounds logical. Doesn't mean the idea corresponds to reality though. And honestly, it's probably faster to get up to temps by just starting the engine with the head covered and blooping back and forth a few times or doing a slow lap than waiting for the preheater to do its thing. Not to mention the hassle of charging and lugging around batteries, etc...

i´m in here, but today i do use a pre-heater as well :/

2005 i broke in a RB WS7 II, i had no clue about break in methods, just started it at 10° C outside temp and it idled, then i started turning laps and slowly race tuned it. no pre-heat, nothing.
this engine turned heads everywhere i raced, it lasted 50!!!! litres with just changing bearings. it was 50 litres of starting, screaming, idling and stopping.
just perfect.

i think it´s more of what herrsavage said, believing you´re doin something good to your engine with pre-heating.

RB is nova based, so it´s not totally off-topic lol...

Exactly. And yours isn't the only example. Lots of people used to not preheat and their engines still ran great and lasted long. Now people have these ideas in their heads - wrist pin this, sleeve expansion that - and are convinced that spending a bunch of money and time preheating makes a difference.., just because it seems like it should.

To be fair I do buy into it and try to preheat during break-in, but I don't only run at tracks with electricity, so it's a PIA to do it every time. So I do it when I can. And honestly I'm not even sure it's worth it. I just do it to hedge by bets. But my bet is pretty much that it makes no damn difference..

Engine heater's are like any other tool in your tool box. They aren't 500$ like Herr makes them out to be, Nor are they a "hassle" to lug around (110 or 12v)

As Jerm stated, to be able to drop the car on Pit row and have it Up to temp and ready to race in 1/4 the time it would take from a Cold start is the main benefit imo.

Exactly. I love to hit the track at near race temp and drop race laps times from the get go. Not roll around waiting for then tune to come in from temps. Plus I feel a heck of a lot more confident in early needle changes in a Qual from having a race temp engine to one who might still be warming up.

Engine heaters are worth their weight in gold in my books.

I think this subject is depends on worth it or not. But we all know when engine is up to temp it will produce more power/faster response.

Is just an optional like kits optional parts to make it better, have is a +, no but have nothing to lose.

Heat gun is wat i prefer for break in only

I use both, I think a heat gun will raise the temp faster. When I am running my engine on the break in bench I put the heater on to keep the temp constant. I think having a temp gun at a race would be easier to use at a race.

I disagree. Not getting personal - just saying, I don't see it that way. I need a starterbox, or a screwdriver, or a glow starter, or even a spare glowplug in my pit box. Very much in a way I do not need a preheater.

OK, I never bothered to solder mine over to whatever plug would fit whatever lipo I would have to get. I had a stupid heavy gel cell that a.) was heavy, and b.) didn't even get much heat into the heater anyway. Very much a PIA to lug around. I never bothered getting a lipo for it because I just don't believe preheaters are necessary or worth the hassle. I still use mine - unconnected to any current - to get a cold-started engine up to temp faster, and afaic that's enough. Except for a brand new engine maybe, which I will make an effort to preheat for the first one or two liters. But beyond that it's just an unnecessary hassle IMO. Re price, Comp Heats for years and years cost 100 bucks and more. That's a nice brand new pipe and change. You need a pipe... Plus you'd need a lipo, and OK nowadays those are cheap from HK. I never said 500 bucks, but 100 bucks is still too much afaic.

But whatever floats your boats...

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/competi...120vd2/p250929

Pretty far from $100 to me. Its mor of a piece of mind thing. Maybe I don't NEED the Novarossi pipe, the OFNA clone may do. Don't NEED to top off that glow driver, but it wont hurt. Don't NEED a $20 slotted tuning driver. Again its all about what you feel. you've made your point, over and over and over again just like always. You stated your opinion, now move on.

Well that is a lot cheaper than it used to be..

I would just point out, having been in a few nitro-vs.-flashlight exchanges, the flashlight people way overexaggerate the supposed difficulty and complexity of nitro, and some nitro people are guilty of the same thing - for ex., among other things, by insisting that preheating is a must. It just adds to that false perception, and keeps more people away from nitro.. But hey that's the trend of the last several years - got to be a $500 modded Novarossi with hundreds of bucks more for pipe and clutch and Buku cap and break-in bench and preheater and on and on... It's no wonder people exaggerate the "hassle" of nitro.. :rolleyes:

ps Just checked ebay here in Europe. €84....

Its not adding to the complexity at all. Heating up the engine makes it easier to start. The faster you start it the quicker you can run it. The quicker you run it the quicker you can tune it. The sooner you tune it the quicker you can have fun. You see it as a waste, I see it as a tool that may increase ease of engine use and possibly engine life. Some people are this way about fuel, plugs, batteries, radios, servos and much more.

I'll concede that it may make life easier being able to run "sooner" (though you're not taking into consideration the time the preheater needs to do its work.. Except in cold outside temps, you should be able to start an engine quickly enough, and again, with a sock or beer cozie even for the first lap or two you'll get up to temps much quicker than with a non-covered cooling head..) and that for you überserious racers it's a good thing to be able to hit the track with a hot engine(though I personally can't imagine hitting the track and going %100 just off a preheat.. I would always want to go a tad easy for the first lap.. Then OK letter' rip...)

I do not however believe it prolongs engine life at all(which is generally the main reason people give for saying they're so necessary..) ;)

Anyway, as I said, I'm not trying to talk crap with anybody or argue. I just see it as largely wasted engergy - for me anyway.., and don't place the faith it that many of you seem to. That's all.. OK, I'll stop now. Carry on....

I see your repetitive posts as this. :nod:

+100 LOL!

Then what is taking the time to respond to them?..... :rolleyes:

Hey guys just added a new pipe and manifold to my engine on my TKI 3. The header is short so the whole length of the exhaust is on the shorter side which creates a small angle that the pipe/header sit on because of the tki 3 tray/pipe hanger set up. There isnt a perfectly straight fit now with the pipe/header connection. Im worried that there could be a small potential air leak because of this? Is it okay that its not perfectly sealed straight?

Try other header or check the gasket frequently. When it don line up perfectly will damage sooner

You will need to fab up a custom wire. If the exhaust isn't straight, you will blow through gaskets quick, and have a leak causing an inconsistent tune.

+1

I have a little question on the novarossi's range of motor... Is there a big noticeable difference between a low end and a higher end engine on the track lap time ?
I have a P5xlt which as just gone through it's tenth liter it work very well and is well tuned . When I tried a friend's car with a BTT4 and another with an OS Max something I just felt more grunt in the low end range. I first had carbon shoes and then switched to aluminium shoes (both 1mm spring) I noticed a little improvement but I'm still very far from the "lagless" feel their engine had.

Apart from the obvious surge in power feel and could take jumps much more easily. With their engine it was a matter of bleeping the throttle, with the P5xlt however it's much more tricky and you really have to open full throttle long before that and still not achieve the speed to "double jump" bumps like they do.

We literally have the same car/setup/tires.

Basically I believe the P5xlt is a very nice engine and can't be beaten for the money but I'm starting to doubt it's performance against everybody's 300-400$ engine at my track. I can't find why I struggle with acceleration on my car :( can you help me ?

I'd like to add that the engine is well tuned and has been double checked by two local mechanics champion but in the short straight line between corners in technical parts of the track the fast guys engine go faster to a higher pitch noise than mine who seem to rev not to a high speed everywhere except the long straight where it's got time to reach it.

ps: the exhaust is a 2096 and the elbow 41021.

This sounds like a pipe issue.

Agree... Try a Nova 9901. Im running it in my truck with a P5 and that thing is a beast. I had to go smaller on the venture to tame the wheel spin as I was burning the tires off. If you don't care to much about fuel mileage, the 2052 is even more awesome. But it costs about 60-90 seconds of run time.

Or the Werks 2058.... one of the best all around pipes for just about every motor out there today. Almost.....

I've said it before and I'll say it again...love my Werks 2058 pipe/header combo!! Awesome on a P5 too!! Lol

Ah, I didn't think about the pipe... I'll buy and try a 9901 then. (I do have an Alpha 2090 laying around if by any chance it could also help?).

Can I use my 41021 manifold with it ?

thanks

Try 9853 / 9901-41021 but is tunning issue, lsn rich. P5 is most torque engine in nova line imo. Others rather smooth