when you say plug the holes with zip ties, do you mean like zip tie some fuel tubing shut or something?

I think he means fill with water then plug the holes.


Will give this a look.

I have my doubts on having the dents pop out of one of the nova SS pipes with ice.

are there any other pipes that have like a brace for what I think is called the "stinger" that would be recommended to give a look? seen some like a certain dynamite pipe that has a brace from the main pipe to the "stinger", basically that is where I got a bit of a dent going on.

Using a Paloma .21 limited gold head here in nitro buggy

The dynamite 086 is a good pipe that has what you're looking for.

what about the 053 one?

Oy will work, I've just always heard of the 086 with the novarossi engines. I personally havent heard of anyone using the 053.

I've broken in three P5s in the last few months, and when new they will occasionally get stuck on the pinch early in the break in process, even with sufficient heat - to the point where a starter box will just smoke the wheel on the engine flywheel.

A screwdriver to pry the flywheel over is all that's needed. As the engine breaks in, getting stuck on the pinch goes away.

I do not understand why people have such a hard time breaking in these engines. They seem tight, but they’re nowhere near as tight as they were 20 years ago. If the top end is properly (keyword: properly) preheated and you actually run the engine, it will loosen up rather quickly. You have to actually run the engine to get it to break in and loosen up. If you shut it down every 5 minutes and let it cool down a bunch, you’re just adding more headache than needed and making the process take a lot longer than necessary. Of course my method will be contradicted because I’m not a bandwagon rider, but after several hundred engines of every construction method ever used, there’s very little difference in how it needs to be done. Fear and paranoia make the process far more complicated than it needs to be.

If the piston is getting stuck in the pinch, the top of the engine is not hot enough, period. I don’t care if the heatsink is 200F, that isn’t what needs to be heated sufficiently. The top of the crankcase below the heatsink is what matters. If this area is heated to 200-220F, I highly doubt your going to have sticking problems.

As the pinch goes (wears) away, so does a bit of its power potential. Remember, an engine at operating temp does not have any pinch due to the brass liner expanding at the top. Just think - no pinch when cold means (hypothetically) a perfect seal when cold and a less than perfect seal when hot due to the brass liner expanding more than the piston.

I didn't say anything about no pinch when cold. I meant when preheated. A broken in engine will always start and run easier than one that is brand new, even if the preheat temp is the same. I don't agree that there's no pinch when the engine is at operating temp. Less, yes. None, no.

Then you don’t understand the metallurgy of your engine as well as you think you do. Everyone learns at a different pace. Some eventually get it, some don’t.

Thanks, I never claimed I had a clear understanding of that. Just relaying my experiences, but don't let that stop you from proclaiming your genius.

If you don’t understand the metallurgy and how it actually works, how in the hell can you say there is still pinch at operating temp? :rolleyes:

When pre-heating an engine to the same temp as the operating temperature then you are compleetly wrong of the temperature inside the engine.
Arround the combustion chamber the temps can go up to over 1000 degrees celcius when running and then there is cooling from the fuel and transferring the heat to the outside through crankcase and head all with a resistance.

No professor can calculate it correctly, all choices of the sleeve taper angle, materials sleeve and piston and the matchin cooling head are made by just trying.

Mephisto
 

Can someone give a review on the Mephisto?
Botom, top and mileg

Thanks