Well the square is the ones that has sharp corners, like 41001, 41005, 41019, 41032.
Conical means that the inside diameter is different from one end to the other, same size at the engine as the regular, but larger at the pipe. Like 41031, 41032.

finally got to run my H.E.S full monty mantra yesterday, runs like my old murnan btt motor with a bit more bottom to mid(probably due to it being larger displacement than most .21s). two tanks in I was running 8 mins a tank with some fuel left. I did run it for a couple laps in edmonton the previous weekend but didnt loctite the engine mounts and ate the clutchbell up in warmup so it never really warmed up fully.

People loctite engine mounts?

that was the first time ive used lock washers on engine mounts in ten years. I dont know if it was because they were stainless screws but some blue locktite and enough torque to flex an mip driver has worked for me for years.

PARTY!!!

Looks like I finally broke in my Nova Rolling after 3 quarts of fuel and didn't know it. It ran perfectly (was very rich) up to this point with great idle.
I got out to the track yesterday and it wouldn't stay running without the igniter in. Changed plug and same thing. Some guys were there to help me out. It had to be leaned out crazy but guy also said the CT06 plug I was running was crap even tried a CT7 I had and nothing. He threw a OS P3 in and fired it up and tuned it a little more and I was able to run the rest of the day and ran another quart through the motor.
Although it ran it didn't seem to have as good of an idle as I had before. I'm assuming more tuning is needed. I have to check my idle gap as well after all the needle play he did.

I thought the Nova's ran better with a colder plug but he was saying I need hotter?

I've read on this thread that now I have to stay with the OS plugs is this true?
I also read that its better to use the P4 then the P3?

All info is appreciated.

~CJ

Did you run a low nitro content?

I know a lot of people running OS plugs but I have no issues with Novarossi plugs. If a hotter plug was the solution you can try a Novarossi 5 but I would remove an 0.1mm headshim to make it work with colder plugs. A lower head will give more power.

Im running Byrons 30/11

OS plugs is usually never the answer, and P3 is too hot for anything usually. You can end up with a backwards setting where you need to run it rich and increased idle gap, that results in even more problems like flameouts etc.
As Roelof said, it's usually better to remove a shim to get stable idle and more power, it will also be more responsive on needle settings so it's easier to get them right.

Thanks for the info.

I was doing some research and don't know why he went with P3. If anything should've been P4.
I now thanks to my noobness have a couple of P4's.

I'm going to teardown the motor hopefully tonight to check it out and will remove a shim.
I'm going back to the track saturday so will be able to tune it up then.

I have a few CT06 and a few P4 plugs are they similar heat output or are the p4's hotter?
Can i go back and forth between the two?
If I can use both and if the 4's are hotter I was thinking of using them when the weather gets colder.

What do you think?

OS Glow / Spark Plugs - JK Products

The RP models are almost the same as the Novarossi, so yes, the P4 and P3 are hotter

Thank you for that chart.

Would you say that the P4 is equivalent to the CT07 then or still hotter then that?

Can I still use Nova plugs now that I've used the OS plugs?

Read someone say if you use OS to only use OS for life of engine.

I'm going to remove shim and would like to go back to my CT06 that I have.

On the left it is an OS chart, not the same as Novarossi. I did say that the RP plugs are almost the same as the Novarossi, so if you only look at the right chart you can see the 4 is hot.