They have steel bearing versions? Did not know that

Don't see them on Nova site either... Sure you not talking about legend 4 and 7?

Looks like yes:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Novarossi-Mi...item541d298bb0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Novarossi-Mi...item43da83fec5

you can get them on their site for 293

http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/Novaro..._p_505254.html

for the steel but I would get the ceramic. The 4 is real fast, the 7 is 30 to 40 % faster. But the fuel mileage is a lot greater for the 4.

Nice...

Anybone run a Rex Paloma? What's the difference between the orange and blue Limited one (which is more powerful?), and what are they most similar to in the NR lineup? Thanks..

Yeah I planned to by the ceramic 7 or 4 from them, those prices are great . probably the 7. is the break in / pre run model worth it?

Depends how anxious you are to get a race tune on it.

The pre-run engines most people just run a couple tanks through them and then they're good to go.

Personally, I like breaking my engines in.... I guess it's just a matter of preference really.

what is the engine for ? buggy or truggy ? and what are you looking for from the engine ? for similar $$ I have a few tuned Nova's that i think will soundly outperform those stock Mito's !

Oops just realized I spelled "buy" as "by" silly me.
I have an MP9 tki3 so buggy. what motors do you have?

I run the blue head, TNteam i guess for NR line up. Powerful i would say, did try a friend legend 7 and dont feel much difference, some said it is smoother. Is fun for buggy if you drive smooth

I've got the Modded Legend 7 with ceramic bearings and gotta say that engine is a powerhouse for my buggy but it runs absolutely perfectly and for our larger track with quick jumps it is perfect.

Anyone else ever have problems with the seals on the 17011 bearing?

I popped the flywheel off my Elite 5 the other day and the front seal fell right off. Most of the rubber was gone and burned up from friction I'm guessing, the second seal was looking pretty haggard too.

From the start I noticed it didn't spin as freely as most of the 17011s I've used, but I thought that running it a little bit would free it up, but I guess not.

I'm just wondering if I should stop using a shim behind the collet and if that had anything to do with it. I've always ran it that way with my mbx7t in the past without any problems

sounds like something got caught behind your flywheel

You have one of my TNS modified right ?

Since the inner race is 6.3mm, there is no need to add shim b4 collect, i had tried many flywheel n it fitted perfectly without a shim... The bearing is pretty solid