Yes. I have made a truggy engine run at 250 when the owner gets it around 190. And when I did that the engine was spot on for me while to rich for the owner when he was running it at 190. Didn't change the tune only the driver. I can make an engine run hot. But 300 and up is dangerous. I don't tune to temp but IMHO at 300 the lube package is starting to break down and protection is going to disappear.

Does this temp limit (300F) and temp target (230F-270F) apply to all engines or just Nova's?

When I ran nitro touring using .12 novarossi motors, our temperature goals were 260* after 2 minutes and 280* at the end of a tank (starting to go lean). At times, we would see the engines approach or exceed 300* when they weren't quite right. Never really had issues with the engines running this way.

That being said, I usually am never able to get a .21 above 250 without a noticeable lean bog that seriously affects performance. If I come off in the 240-250 range, I'm happy (although others will think that's too high). I really only use a temp gauge after mains and/or to illustrate to people a proper running engine is more important than temperature.

Hi, Guys,

Need your advice badly here, especially from those who knows nova engine well.

I own a JP racing engine which I believe is a Nova based engine.

The engine spec is
http://www.jpracing.com/en/products/...es/fx21b8n.php

Manual is
http://www.jpracing.com/img/products..._FX21B8_en.pdf


Questions

1) If I wish to change from normal button head to turbo button head, how many shim should I add in????
It will be on a 25% nitro fuel

2) No way I can find a 07006 conrod in the market now.
Can I use the latest 07009 conrod instead???

FYI, I have sent numerous emails to JP Racing website asking for answers, but no reply.
Not sure if the company still exists.

Your advice is very much appreciated here.

Thanks.

Im not going to get into a bearing debate but i can say i have personally used and sold hundreds of Avid engine bearings both fronts and rears to many racers and never had one single problem.. i have some very well known racers buying the fronts and they love them so reading this is all weird to me, Anyway i don't have a problem recommending Avid because of a 100% success rate with their products


Let us know how you go when you swap it out if you do so



Dave,
FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA

Tuning to or for temps is crazy, I don't do it and i don't recommend it.. There is absolutely no point in trying to achieve a certain engine temp.. it defeats the whole point of tuning the engine

A temp reading can be a rough guide or give you some basic reference at best

Tune your engine by how it sounds and performs.. nothing else

Usually around Australia we see happy tuned engines produce temps of around 100 - 125c, Sometimes they don't clear 85/90c.. sometimes they hit 145c and pending the environment they are in and how they are been used and with what fuels etc this is all fine

One other thing, on a race day grab five peoples temp guns.... and see how much they all vary by



Dave,
FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA

You guys must get "different" front bearings over there , lol

ive seen many that suck massive amounts of dirt in after only half gallon of running , not good

to each his own , I dont recommend ANYTHING unless it truely is high quality that will not fail shortly after a sale causing a customer grief .

Happy motorin'

Nothing wrong with AVID bearings.

I think it was last year, Monty and other wrote pros / cons about AVIDs front bearings. A big shot like you Monty, should not write about what you dont like but only what you would recommend.

Monty, I have also had great luck with Avids for over a year. I have put in over a hundred front bearings and no complaints from customers. I was previously using Tko on my rebuilds and the seal is very thin and can flake away.

the problem i see is some people recommend certain products because they are getting a deal for promoting them , good biz bad biz call it what you will . in the end the customer just seems to accept it as "the norm" replacing the front bearing every 1-2 gallons of fuel when it is entirely unnecessary and avoidable with the nova 17011 front bearing . ive ahd literally hundreds of guys say that they will never use another front bearing as their engines have never even came close to running and tuning in that good after the installation of the nova front bearing , sooo in the end its all up to whatever you the consumer want to accept as "normal" .

happy motorin'

btw , i aint no "big shot" but that Rex guy , hes the "big shot"

hmmm thats funny , i have changed hundreds of them out to novas

There is ifference in the dust/soil that you run on. At the worlds in Swden, almaost all of the us racers i talked to, said Kyosho bearings were the absoulute best bearings you could by!! I Norway, we changed them out after half a gallon because the were screwed...

Best bearing i did use was a spesial ceramic bearing from SKF with green seals. The price back then was aprox 130 us dollars..... Just not worth it!!!!!!!!!!!

Now, the best bearing is the one coming on an engine ( OS/NOVA/REDS, i only have experience with theese) and the Buku cap. My Reds had now ran 18 liters, bearing is great! I clean up after a gallon an regrease. It is just perfect!!!

Funny stuff Monty, I do keep a couple 17011 on hand and they are a great bearing but nobody wants to spend the $.

Rex

I've no engine bearing sponsor so my Avid suggestion is from my experience :-)

I'm sure the 17011 is absolutely great. One cons is the 6.3 mm wide : that doesn't work with some clutches where you'll have no room for shims even with an only 6 mm long collet

you only use shims if its needed. if thee is no room for shims then why would you want to use them..

But thats just my inexperience talking..