[QUOTE=Lille-bror;13419891]Sorry, I have only tried the pipe on Novarossi Plus 4, Plus4 Team and BTT. Maybe AM from Norway can help you with the other engines.

The 41030 is much longer than the 41001 and not bended so I doubt it will suit the the 2032.

Use the shortest header you have with the 9886 [/Q

Thanks, then i have to use the 41021 what is the shortest header
i have. I tried out the 17 t clutchbell on my Bonito 7XLBS
yesterday in my Xray XB9'13 with a 9901/41021 combo.
Christ on a bike how fast it went and still it had a good
bottom, very smooth powerband and that with a 17t
clutchbell...lol. It was a crazy kick driving it with
that speed. Im thinking of checking out the speed on
my GPS today, but the weather is a litlle bit unstable
today. If it aint start raining i will do it today and will
keep you informed. I will use proline caliber super soft
tyres on the car, im not sure if it is the best tyres
to use. All of my other tires is mostly super soft
and soft, no meduim tires.

[QUOTE=Dr spoony;13421854]Yes now i have tried My Xray XB9'13 top speed
with The Bonito.21-7XLBS with a 17T Clutchbell
and the GPS showed 84 kph. Not bad at all.
i wonder what it would have made with a 19T

This is how you should calculate your pitstops: Pitted every 9 minutes in the a-main. After the 45 min final, I had to drive nearly one more lap (34 sec), and then drive into the pit. Stopped the engine and checked the fuel left in the tank... Well... there was still some left in the fuel line... During the quals I calculated the mileage to be between 9.46 and 9.58... Proved to be right.

Posted this on the break in thread with no responses yet so I wonder if anyone here has any advice:

Breaking in a new nova p5 with Byron's 30%. Engine starts fine but I can't get it to stay running, when I pull the igniter off it dies after about 5-10 seconds unless I add throttle input. The idle does not slow or speed up before it dies it just shuts off. I have leaned the low needle about 4 hours and it does not die when I apply full brake, should I lean the high speed needle at this point? I haven't touched it yet or continue to lean the low end?

I have since leaned the low end a little more to where it is beginning to be in from flush. It now idles fast for abut 2-3 seconds and then slows just a bit before it dies, I am trying to complete some low speed (about 20-30%throttle) runs to keep it warm and it will occasional die when i remove throttle input, but does not die when brakes are applied. I just dont want to lean the low end too much and have it cause any damage.

Replace glow plug to a 5 if you haven't already

What is your question? are you talking about top speed?
Then you have to write what kind of REX engine u
have and what set up you are using.

I haven't, but I forgot to mention that its 95 plus degrees out, should I still change it?

Yes, also did you preheat it? What temp? You may also need to raise the idle.

Yes you replace the plug

Yes preheated to 190-200.

I'll try the hotter plug and see how that goes, thanks for the help

Ok, story time. It seems for the life of me I have no luck with the novarossi Btta/ plus 4. I bought the +4 when they first came out had issues, now years later I bought a Btta and am having issues. In both cases it's just random flame outs. I know how to properly break in and tune an engine and I am just scratching my head on this one. My latest Btta would just randomly flame out from the very first tank of break in. It has never stopped even now. I have very close to 1 gallon on the motor . Used byrons 20/12 for a half gallon, then went to Vp 20/9. I don't blame either fuel for my issues. I started with the byrons because I wanted the extra lubrication. Went back to Vp simply because that's the only 20% fuel I can find that has a lower oil content. I prefer the lower oil for racing. I took my motor apart this past weekend to look at the internals and maybe see if I could find anything wrong. First thing I noticed is that I feel there is quite a bit of play/slop in the crank pin or rod. With the piston at tdc you can feel the pin moving around in the rod. What does a new crank pin spec out to and what is still in tolerance after break in? Other than this everything looks perfect inside. I was thinking about this and let's say my crankshaft pin is worn, the flame outs were there even on the first tank. So I can't help but think something else is going on. My intentions of this post are by no means a rant on novarossi products, just looking for some input. I have never had issues with any other nova motor, just the 4 port. I will just stick with the P5 motors.

I would highly suggest swapping the front bearing out for a new one and see if that stops the flame outs, Play in the big end at tdc is normal and if you only have one gal thru the engine it should be fine unless it was ran in at temps below 170f .....or there is a lubrication issue etc



Dave,
FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA

Have you tried running 25 or 30%? What glow plug do use? The engine comes shimmed for 30%.

+1

You need more nitro. 0.8 mm (stock) shimming for 30% nitro and 0.7 for 25% nitro. It shouldn't have made flames during break in though even with 20% nitro.

I know I disagree with all in here, but you need more oil when going down in nitro and visa versa