the 97T is an ok plug, good for break in. but it should be replaced after one day of racing. The element tends to be fragile. if the weather is above 70F I would run the Nova C6 plug up until about 90F, then switch to the C7 plug. The nova plugs will last longer then any others and tune well. I have run the C6 all the way up to 100F with out issues.

Hi guys. Thanks for the tips! Started it up after setting the idle gap and made adjustments in smaller increments (1/16 at a time), much better now. With the OS carbs I was so used to just making a quick 1/8 turn to adjust the low. It seems on this carb 1/8 or about 3/16ths is about the range between too rich to idle consistently and almost too lean on the bottom.
Much better now.

Now my question.... with this in mind, lets say I come off the track and I feel the top could use a little leaning for some more top speed, I would typically lean the top about 1/16th or 1/8th if it really felt rich. I assume that would throw off the low end as it is so sensitive on this carb. Would I richen the low end about the same amount to maintain the balance or just the top?

I'm sure there will be some trial and error but with the OS carb I would just lean the top a little and the bottom wouldn't be very effected.

RO

Thanks a lot for the heads up Dave, so the 9901 and 41021 is good, how about the 41029, what's the difference between the 2 manifolds?

Oh, btw guys, what's the difference between the 9901 and 2096 pipe? It seems they're the most recommended pipes for 1/8 off-road.

http://www.novarossi.it/2012/index.p...-off-road.html

C6TGC - Conical Turbo Gold Glowplug for ambient temperature: 1/8: 10°C/25°C ~ 50°F/77°F.

C7TGC - Conical Turbo Gold Glowplug for ambient temperature: 1/8: 25°C/40°C ~ 77°F/104°F.

The Mugen (41029) is more compact... in other words it sets the pipe closer to the center of the chassis/ fuel tank and it is only required on the Mugen X6 cars to prevent the pipe from sticking out too far, A normal header can be used on the X6 but not really ideal


The 9901 is more aggressive at lower rpm and accelerates better/ harder at lower rpm... still revs very hard, the 2096 is a little less aggressive down low and slightly smoother thru most if not all of the rpm range... by rights the 2096 should rev slightly higher and require a leaner hsn.. it should give slightly better fuel economy also but from my experience the 9901 is as good in those regards and wakes the engine up more.. personally I and most people i find in Australia prefer the 9901 hands down over the 2096

I guess it all depends on what your chasing from your Engine?



Dave,

FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA

Dave thanx

I order me a 9901/41021 For my Fusion X5.

Will see how it works out this weekend before the Big race next week.

OK so I was having problems breakin in my P5 XLT. I switched gas to Side winder 30% and a new Nova 6 glow plug and the problems are almost gone.

I have the 9901 pipe and my HS is 3.5 or a bit more opened.
My LS is between 4.25 and 4.5. My problem is that the engine boggs when I try to give it throttle.
I have about 3/4 of a gallon through it.
Today it was 70 degrees and if I try to lean the LS or TS even by 1 hour, the temps just go up .
1- Is this engine so sensitive that 1/12th of a turn on the needles makes a big difference?
2- What needle settings could I expect with this fuel and glow plug for race tune? can I say 3 on top and 3.75 on the bottom? or is this too lean?

Thanks I'm just having trouble tuning this little guy as I am very rusty///

Sounds like it's to lean on the bottom. I really don't know for sure, but, a novarossi doesn't count turns of the needles. I could be wrong, but I think you should tune from flush...

when it bogs on the bottom like that your HSN is too lean. at 3.5 its certainly bordering or past the tuned point.

Sorry guys I'm also rusty with the lingo.
When I say bogs, I mean it is too rich when I go wot but after a few seconds it leans out a little. And then I get half decent RPMs.
I thought I was still rich on the HSN because I tried 1/4 more lean and RPMs picked up quite a bit.

Thanks

First off make sure your preheating this motor to at least 200 degrees, if your going straight off an cold motor your gonna be chasing a tune all day. But your rich that's all, when you pull the trigger is bogging then clearing out I'm assuming? Bottom is rich, but there's other steps prior to that, tune that hsn first then work on that bottom! Competition heater was the best purchase I've ever made, I'm so so much more consistent with my tune that its scary.

Thanks jaron, WTH I dont want no wedgie

I always pre heat to 200 but with heat gun.
I'm pretty sure i'm rich on the bottom but as soon as I try to lean the HSN and it is not race tune at all. The rpms are still so low I can barely clear the double jump at the track.

But as soon as I try to lean the HSN even by 1/4 turn, the engine wants to go to 240 or more so I monitor temps every 30 seconds and then I richen.

I thinks I might have debris stuck in the HSN.
I will take it apart and see how it goes.

Thanks

Don't be scared of the engine running high temps. With the low Cg head they run a little warmer than other motors. My bonito doesn't like it until about 260-270 degrees.

I could be off but I think you have your tuning lingo is wrong. One hour means 1/12th of a turn. Basically 5 minutes if you want to get techinical. One hour is not one full turn. You should be making adjustments 1/12th of a turn at a time. I usually do a blade with of the screwdriver at a time, if you are far off this will take for ever though. A p5 should run up to 260 with no real issues. I don't even use a temp gun anymore, I just lean it until it starts to make good power and don't go much further. The more you do it the more you'll get a feel for it. The engine should clear out nice and sing down the straight. If you like the way it runs at 240 you are well within the range of safe.