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Old 05-20-2013 | 11:39 AM
  #5581  
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Cam honestly say that after a full nationals weekend, im a 9886 believer on the 4btts now. Everythimg else is crap fullstop..and i have a 9901 and 2096. Also got 10:30 consistanly with a 7mm venturi and 5plug. Using the 41021 btw. Stupid power everywhere, and gives it the topend that nova forgot to add in the box lol. I run stock motors fyi
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Old 05-20-2013 | 11:41 AM
  #5582  
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Originally Posted by alex_blais
Is it normal that my P5 XLT needs a new rear bearing after 1.5 gallons or am I doing something wrong?
My Bonito blew a rear bearing in <1 gallon. I've convinced myself that the reason was not heating it up enough, vice Nova worksmanship.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 11:47 AM
  #5583  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
what fuel do you run ?

rear bearings can be damaged by poor quality fuel....rapid RPM spikes while engine is cold...improper breakin of the bearing.......Over revving the engine..... running too lean.......
I used Sidewinder race 30% and odonnel 20% all with 12% oil
maybe I ran it too lean because I was always pre heating it but I would run out of fuel at the final lap of a 5 minute qualifier.
So some guys at the track helped me adjust it and we ended with 4.25 turns on the LSN and 3.1 turns on the HSN
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Old 05-20-2013 | 12:33 PM
  #5584  
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Originally Posted by alex_blais
I used Sidewinder race 30% and odonnel 20% all with 12% oil
maybe I ran it too lean because I was always pre heating it but I would run out of fuel at the final lap of a 5 minute qualifier.
So some guys at the track helped me adjust it and we ended with 4.25 turns on the LSN and 3.1 turns on the HSN
12% oil means you were using the sport fuel ?

why is the bearing shot ? what exactly is wrong with it ?
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Old 05-20-2013 | 12:35 PM
  #5585  
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Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob
Cam honestly say that after a full nationals weekend, im a 9886 believer on the 4btts now. Everythimg else is crap fullstop..and i have a 9901 and 2096. Also got 10:30 consistanly with a 7mm venturi and 5plug. Using the 41021 btw. Stupid power everywhere, and gives it the topend that nova forgot to add in the box lol. I run stock motors fyi
Yup !!!!!

try the 41001 next........
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Old 05-20-2013 | 12:39 PM
  #5586  
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Originally Posted by alex_blais
Is it normal that my P5 XLT needs a new rear bearing after 1.5 gallons or am I doing something wrong?
Yes, that is normal.
"The word is out" about the bearings in the P5XLT, the steel bearings aren't very good and the word going around here is everyone need to replace the bearings at two gallons. That yours only lasted 1.5 is just variation.

My friend just had his P5XLT bearings go out at about the same as yours.
I now have the engine for parts..

(I'm sure there'll be someone on here "to protect the brand" and flaming me like mad, but I only tell the truth. I have no sponsors so I don't care what vendors think.)
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Old 05-20-2013 | 12:44 PM
  #5587  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
Yes, that is normal.
"The word is out" about the bearings in the P5XLT, the steel bearings aren't very good and the word going around here is everyone need to replace the bearings at two gallons. That yours only lasted 1.5 is just variation.

My friend just had his P5XLT bearings go out at about the same as yours.
I now have the engine for parts..

(I'm sure there'll be someone on here "to protect the brand" and flaming me like mad, but I only tell the truth. I have no sponsors so I don't care what vendors think.)
can you pull the bearing apart and show us where it is failing ? it is usually the steel balls have skidded out the outer race.....
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Old 05-20-2013 | 12:47 PM
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No, I already threw it out. I didn't know you could even take them apart?
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Old 05-20-2013 | 12:53 PM
  #5589  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
No, I already threw it out. I didn't know you could even take them apart?
yes...taking them apart allows you very clearly to see what exactly went wrong...and if it is indeed a factory error or user error............

All you have to do is push the race out the back and the bearing will just click apart........taking them apart is easy, putting them back together is a little more difficult ......
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Old 05-20-2013 | 01:40 PM
  #5590  
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Default My theory on bearings

Aside from crappy fuel that can eat up bearing quickly no matter what bearing it is I've noticed the rear nova bearings have changed the size of the balls and this allows them to cut into the races a bit more than normal and the bearings get really out of tolerance quickly. If you hold the new bearings in ur hand and hold the inside race with one hand and move the outside race around it has more radial movement after only a few gallons it's not good at all for the crank to be drifting around so much. I usually replace the rear bearing in all nova engines since the change. Front seems to be really good as usual. the TKO, avid, and protek rear bearings still use the larger balls and seem to have tighter tolerances than most others although I have not tried them all. I still use the nova front dual sealed bearings in all my engines.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 03:04 PM
  #5591  
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Well it started out with the fact that I did not know you had to change clutch bearings often. My previous car had needle bearings and they lasted forever.
So it was starting to go and my flywheel unscrewed.
After my 1st race and about 1.5 to 1.75 gallons, I figured I would check all bearings, change diff fluid and so on.

While at it, why not inspect the motor...
So removed the backplate and I was checking the connecting rod by turning the crank I What seemed weird is that the crank seemed to move, not circularly but up and down.
After removing the crank, I found the rear bearing had excessive play...

Oh and is it normal that when the engine is cold and I remove the glow plug, I get very little resistance (pinch) at the top

BTW the fuel I use is the SideWinder Race blend and it has a mix or castor and synth at 12%
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Old 05-20-2013 | 03:15 PM
  #5592  
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Oh yeah, I hate when anyone designs super small ball bearings for an application that has high rpms or high load.
My super old Kyosho inferno had really big balls in the bearings and in about 10 gallons of racing action, I never replaced 1 of them!!!
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Old 05-20-2013 | 03:37 PM
  #5593  
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Is there a tool that's not too expensive that allows to remove the rear bearing easily?

I tried the oven and wood block method and it did not work. I ended up with the "slowly hit with small screwdriver" method
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Old 05-20-2013 | 06:03 PM
  #5594  
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I have a stock p5xlt in my 8t 2.0. What is the best pipe to use? Im looking for good power but still want fuel mileage. thx in advance
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Old 05-21-2013 | 12:29 AM
  #5595  
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Originally Posted by alex_blais
Is there a tool that's not too expensive that allows to remove the rear bearing easily?

I tried the oven and wood block method and it did not work. I ended up with the "slowly hit with small screwdriver" method
I use the HUDY tool: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...w-14mm-Bearing

Also use a heat gun (or oven) on the crankcase to make pulling and installing the bearings a little easier.
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