ok got u.. never played with the RE11 .. but the 9901 is the choice of champions.. :-)

i've got a Plus 4BTT WC thats done 6L or 1.5Gallons and its worn out. when i say worn out, i can push the piston through the top of the liner. its buggered

run in on a bench at 90-100deg C
never got too hot, never leaned out.
never swallowed any dirt

took it to the distributor and they said it looks like the back plate has come loose causing the back plate to vibrate and cause scuffing, and the scuffed material has gone through the engine causing it to wear out.

1. the back plate was tight and i never noticed it coming loose, and 2. would that really cause that?

pretty dissapointed but any thoughts?

would you be able to take a picture of the crankshaft for me ? I am particularly interested in the section that spins underneath the carb..... If you show me a decent pictures I likely can tell you what happened

i've sent it up to a friend to have a look, when it comes back I'll take a pic. im assuming you're looking for damage from it sucking something down its throat?

yes....either down the throat or thru the front bearing....... usually when I see a engine that lost compression early it comes back to contamination of some sort....By looking at the crank we can see instantly if something has passed down the throat or not.....Its actually much more common then people realize....

P5XLT break in questions
 

Hi there I'm certain someone knows what I don't on this forum;)

So I pre-heated my P5 to 200. but it would always die out after about 5 seconds of removing the glow plug igniter. I found that I had to lean the LSN to about 4 turns to keep idle without dying.
So I did that part of the break in as instructed on clockworks website.
Then, when I started to driving it, it would always die when I would try to give it gas. I ended up having to lean the HSN to about 2.5 turns but then my temps were getting too high so I would richen, it would die...
Fuel is new. but it is 20% and I kept all the head shims. Could that be the problem.

I ended (after 4 tanks) with 4 turns on the LS and 2.5 on the HS.
The temps seem to be getting high.
I did 1 run after leaning the HS and temps were 255. then at idle, it would go down to 220-230. Is this too hot for 4 to 5 tanks?

What is a good setting for break in and then racing with this engine?

Thanks

Please guys , dont use the 6.5mm blue insert for break in use the 8mm p)pRed, also use a c5tgc or odonnell 97t during break in , by doing these two things the above issue woulda been resolved before it even got started

Could you post a pic of that area on a crankshaft you would consider contaminated? I always see that area has a different look and feel compared to the rest of the crank on nearly every engine I disassemble. Have always wondered if the cause was dirt moving through the filter or front bearing.

if you can see or feel any sort of markings like this it means dirt is entering your engine..... And yes this is very common, and the leading cause of engine tuning troubles and short lifespans...


http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps1b78e778.jpg

i see engines that look like that after sucking a few glow plugs cause some "engine modder" over compressed the engine.

Glwoplugs do not make marks like that on the crank......

And FYI I do not run my engines with very high compression at all..if a person is killing glowplugs it is likely from a multitude of other factors mainly being too lean..cheap glowplugs are also an issue............As well if a person kills a plug and persists on running the engine without removing the particles of the previous plug they are just asking for trouble.....nice try tho !

That one looks pretty bad. Can't say I've ever seen one like that. Pictured below is what I see regularly and would consider somewhat normal after roughly 4~5 gallons.

Maximo, what kind of interval do you recommend for front bearing cleaning/replacement?

what is the best flywheel and clucth to use on a novarossi engine 21.7 turbo port ? im putting it in a kysho gt2