Originally Posted by copey70

Hello everyone, you all helped me with my first question, I appreciate those who chimed in. I'm still walking the path of learning to tune my Bonito .21. I read someplace or was told, I don't recall which so I'm hoping someone can set me straight on my next question. Here it is, if the idle doesn't came back to down to it normal setting fairly quickly and hangs high for a second or so I'm lean on the bottom end right ? Learing all this 1/8 of a turn here 1/4 turn here can really leave me scratching my head at times That's half the fun of it most of the time. Thanks again for any help !

Originally Posted by copey70

if the idle doesn't come back down to a normal setting fairly quickly and hangs high for a second or so I'm lean on the bottom end right ?

Originally Posted by hookem34

If your engine is fully broken in (about 2 gallons on a Nova) and your idle momentarily hangs after a WOT pass then settles into a smooth purr, your actually a tad lean on top. Richen your HSN just a hair and repeat the WOT.
If the idle hangs for more than 20-30 seconds after a WOT pass then your idle gap is to large. Lots of variables to consider. If you really listen to your engine it will tell you immediately what needs adjusting. Just takes some practice.

Keep in mind that your bottom may become rich if you have to really richen the top. You may need to lean your LSN a bit after you get your HSN dialed in.

Originally Posted by Timox

No thats a ritch bottem end if i'm not mistaken. Keep leaning the bottem end till the idle stays high. Then readjust your idle back to a normal idle speed.

Originally Posted by Maximo

runtime usually comes from how good of a tuner/driver you are, and how lean your willing to run the engine........You can get great runtimes from almost any engine if you know what your doing, modified or stock.....

As for your other question it really depends on what you consider modified...Against what was traditionally called " modified " in the industry my Clocked engines are quite different...Generally speaking the traditional modified engines the work is focused around smoothing out the flow pathways of the mixture, adding guide channels to the exterior of the ports (Fangs,scallops etc ), turbo scoops on the crank face, polishing the sleeve...Usually very visible to the naked eye........ My Clocked engines have almost no changes you can see with the naked eye, as all my work is focused on the ports themselves, altering not only the port timings but also the port angles and volumes...Pretty much unless you know what you are looking for my work is almost invisible.......Far less impressive to look at then "Traditional" mods..........However in terms of affects on performance my style of modifications deliver far more radical changes to the engine, with far greater gains in both power and RPM........Of course this is all relative to how you define the terms.....

Originally Posted by blaushark

Thanks for the explanation. I live in asia, otherwise, I'd love to try your clocked engines...

Originally Posted by copey70

Thanks for the info, I was doing it backwards than. The motor was broken in and ran for two races, than sat for a year before I bougth the car. It runs good, I'm just trying to learn how to tweak and tune it, if I get it too far out of whack I just go back to factory settings and start over Thanks again for the info !

Originally Posted by nickdawg18

I can't wait till I get a keepoff! Maybe even a clocked one!

Originally Posted by xc7

Still a couple weeks out but we will have them both in stock soon...

Originally Posted by dirtdog

Hello all, I have a 21 4c ceramic that has about 8 gallons on it. The engine still runs good and has plenty of pinch. I want to send the motor in for a refresh and was just curious to what other people do when they have that many gallons on there engines. Can i expect the same reliability and longevity? Do i even need to send it in? I just want to be prepared for the upcoming season without any issues. Thanks in advance. Tim