what he said other than.. IMO the #6 is the best plug period.. once you learn how to tune with it.. no need for anything else.. I am running the BTTS with 6mm restrictor, 41021 header, 2084 pipe, and C6TGC plug.. I am able to pit at 13 minutes during a race.. This is the best set up i have ever used in my racing career...

Im new to running Nova...whats the maintenence schedual like. I know with OS you had to do a rod and bearings at 3 gallons how bout for Nova

Depends
 

It depends, but I usually replace the rod at 5 gallons and do a pinch, the bearings are usually still good.....

What are the factory needle settings on the 21+4c carb? Just trying to see how far I'm off. Thanks

Hey Chad, how is the power with the 2084? How does the engine run and mileage compared to the 9901? I have been running the 9901/41021.

interesting to see Drake has moved back to the plus4 for the Nats.

Mafield moved to the LRP engine based on a need for more power for a double triple section.

possible power delivery necessitated the move?

Hey
 

I'm sorry I missed ur question....
The 9901/ 41021 combo is the most popular for buggy no doubt, buuuuut
I have been using the 9853ss/41021 or 41029 (same header just different car) you would use the 41021 header in a Losi i think...

Anyway the 9853ss just gives more power. The 9901 is smoother, but the plus4 is already smooth so the 9853ss helps the engine rip a little more all the way through the powerband....Not to say the 9901 hurts performance, it doesn't, that's just another option for you to consider....I hope this helps....

I have plenty of power. to me this combo feels more like a os speed with 2060 with a touch more bottom.. That would be a fair comparison.. the runtime isnt bad either hehe :)

will a jp 4 work well with the new p5

This is from "houston" on the 21-4 thread. Had flame out issues and went with these settings as a baseline. Both run like a champ now:nod:

base adjustments for the plus 4 carb

lsn - hold slide barrel open (engine off ) screw all the way in until you feel it stop run it back out 4.25 turns , hsn - run in until you feel it stop then back off 3.5 turns , idle gap should be approx. .6mm (no insert) or look into carb opening, close slide barrel with idle screw while pushing on the slide barrel to close it until all the opening just disappears then reopen .75 turns

this should get you very close to a "balanced carb setting" , lean the top to adjust rpm

Thanks TCFLyR. That's just what I needed.

Need some help fellas. This past weekend ran my 21-4c, 9853, and unknown long header. Standard d8 clutch with trimmed shoes, sidewinder team strike 30%. For a 7 minute quality came in near empty, 230*. Track is pretty open, long straights and fast sections Any suggestions, maybe another pipe and header combo for better fuel mileage?

The combo that you have i think is a good combo for power but not for mileage

Use a nova 9901 and the 41021 header and use the 6.5 restrictor and don't be afraid of closing the needles and bring it to 245 degrees and you should be fine

Ricardo is pretty spot on

9853ss is not too bad as far as mileage though ;)


remember this , the smaller the restrictor the higher the running temps :D

Thanks Monty. I think I am going to order an actual Nova header. I am running the 6.5 already. I just feel that I could be getting better mileage than I do. I am gonna compare to my buddy that has near the same setup. What I really wish is that the guy who came up with our track design wasnt so into high speed. I love technical/ very short straight tracks like the nats track this year.

lmk if you need anything

No problem thanks for the help. One other question should I be running p3 or p4 plugs? That is what I have readily available in my pit box.

i dont recommend os plugs . its up to you but p4 would be a better choice for nova engines , p3 is ok but p4 is better


you shoud be running c5tgc or c6tgc ;) or odonnell 97t 99t

Sorry for all the questions. Guess its time to place an order and get this thing sorted the right way lol. Thanks again Monty!

The OS p3 is one of the "worst" plugs i use... shure, it makes almoast any engine run and tune ok, but it do not even get the best perfomance out of OS engines. For many, it is the best plug becasuse it makes the engine easy to tune and run ok.

`My advice, is, get the Nova C6tgc as Houston suggests, and then run and retune you engine. You will find alot of run time, maye as much as a minute and a half.

Monty how about any runtime difference between the nova and odonnell plugs.

the odonnel plugs are like 6-8 times cheaper than the nova ones but I dont want to sacrifice runtime

I have also just got some c7tgc plugs as its hot here in asia 90-105 ambient temp - any comments on that plug, I have been running the c6tgc

definately go the odonnell plugs you are running in the same humidity as me so try the 77t or even the 87t, tower hobbies had them for $3 each:eek: on my +4 with a 6.5 restrictor 9901/20 I was getting nearly 11min on 30% at about 230f:eek:

I just purchased a +4c and was curious to if the rb 2045 will work with it. I plan on ordering a 2084/41021 combo but don't really have the 100 bucks at the moment. My setup is a rc8t 1.0 springs aluminum hard shoes and I think I will start with the 7mm inserts and odo97t plug. The reason for the switch is b/c a guy that I raced against last week was running a fusion motor he got from Monty with the full service. The guy put 6 tanks thru it bfor he raced it and I swear he pitted around 10:45 and his pit man told him he still had a 1/3 of a tank left. So the ws7 is going on the shelf. Hehe

Why not get a Fusion X7? They are close in price to a Plus 4.

Not for me. The nova was better for me.

anyone test this combo

hey Monty whats the f/r bearing sizes for and older p5 ? and the toro nero ? thank you !!

The X7 is a Nova.

old old pre p5x is 14x25.4x6mm anything p5x or newer is 14x25.8x6mm , toro nero is 14.5x26x6x6.3mm , i would recommend sticking with the stock novarossi bearings especially with the toro nero size as i havent found a bearing that i am happy with in that size .


as for the front bearings in all nova off road i would recommend part #17011 7x19x6x6.3mm


hope this helps


doogie?

jp-4 works fairly well with nova engines actually

um runtime difference , hmmmmm well the nova plugs will yield better runtimes when properly shimmed and tuned , you can lean on the nova plugs a little more and they will hold up better but are a little more difficult to get the tune spot on .


c5tgc and c6tgc are the two nova plugs i would keep in my box


nova = longer lasting but a little more difficult for the average joe to tune but will yield more power and better runtimes if tuned properly
odonnell = shorter life but easier to tune

he must have gotten my bench break in :D

That was my engine Monty.

It had a few more than 6 tanks through it. The bench break-in is great ... you know the critical part is spot on, save money on fuel (to pay for part of the service) and, the big one for me, the time you save.

-Phil

Y Thank you sir !
Yes it's Doogie Whatssssssss up !

Get a hold of me if you need anything Doogie :)

Novarossi Plus4
 

Hi guys..I really need help..
I have just run in my plus4 and was using it for the race last weekend. Im using the Dynamite 053 pipe and 30% Mecca fuel. Here's the problem.
After the straight stretch which is about 40mtrs, as i brake and negotiate the hairpin, the engine will flameout. It will only not flameout if i were blipping the throttle. Whats wrong with the needle settings?. Im using the odonell 097t plug.

I doubt the HSN is too lean as the engine is not bogging. Im using the 7mm carb restrictor. If my LSN is rich, will it cause the problem?Maybe its a bit rich as when the engine is fully warm up...It takes about 8-10secs before the crankcase is fully load up with fuel.

The HSN is only about 1/8 turn in from default. The LSN is about half turn in from default. I knw that its all in the needles but I really need some help here.
Theres no problem with the car as it was running fine with my old RBC6 the week before.Thanks..

Check the idle, it might be too low.

The idle could be one thing as mentioned in the previous post but something else to keep in mind is the needle positioning. A very common mistake is people will run the hsn too rich and to compensate, they lean the lsn to clean up the bottom end but as the engine builds heat, the engine naturally leans itself out and if you are running too lean on the lsn, the engine builds even more heat in the infield and cools down in the straight away but over time, the cooling effect will not be effective and the engine will tend to flame out when the slide closes as the heat buildup in the carb from the lean condition evaporates some of the fuel entering the case and the hotter the engine and carb gets, the more fuel and the quicker it evaporates until there isn't enough getting to the chamber to sustain continuous operation.

If the engine is doing it right out of the gate, try raising the idle a little and/or going to a hotter plug but if it runs good initially and it is somehting that happens several minutes into a race, retune the engine so the lsn and hsn receive proper fuel delivery at all times.

The engine will start to flameout about 5mins into the race. But the question is it didnt happen during the 7mins heats. After 3 flameouts consecutively at the same place, I gave up..:(.
My HSN is almost at its default setting and my LSN is about 1/2 turn in from default.
The engine is not overheating as it can be restarted with ease after it flames out..

Typical flameout...
 

I would slap a new 97t in ur engine just for shits and giggles...
What happens is when the engine fires up it idles a bit high and it takes a good while for the engine to get really warmed up. About 5-8 minutes during the main....Then the idle drops and the engine seems to mellow out just a bit...

this is why you need to thorougly tune ur engine during practice....and remember mains are usually later in the evening and the humidity comes in and causes the engine to be a bit richer than it was....

Before every main fire it up and let it warm up and lean the bottom end about an hour, and raise the idle just a bit too, this will compensatefor the drop in idle during the main....

There is nothing wrong with ur engine.....Most likely.

Put the top end flush, and lean the bottom about 1-2 hours, just remember the bottom end is a sensitive adjustment and a little goes a long way, then after it idles great after 5-10 minutes on the track readjust th top end just to make sure it ha plenty of speed....

I hope this helps.....