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-   Offroad Nitro Engine Forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum-157/)
-   -   NOVAROSSI Engine thread.... (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/353301-novarossi-engine-thread.html)

Eivind E 10-30-2012 01:01 PM

Does the 21-4C absolutely need the 6.3mm front bearing, or can you fit a regular run of the mill 6mm one?

Lille-bror 10-30-2012 01:55 PM


Originally Posted by Eivind E (Post 11385942)
Does the 21-4C absolutely need the 6.3mm front bearing, or can you fit a regular run of the mill 6mm one?

You can use any 7x19x6 bearing. Just add some more shims between the engine and flywheel :)

Eivind E 10-30-2012 02:02 PM


Originally Posted by Lille-bror (Post 11386104)
You can use any 7x19x6 bearing. Just add some more shims between the engine and flywheel :)

Well that's money saved :D I'm sure the Nova front bearing is super awesome, but other bearings are half the price :)

Ross71 10-30-2012 03:25 PM

Has anyone used a Mugen 2042 (OS 2050 i think) on a Toro Nero,If so did it run OK.

Ross

Drip 10-30-2012 06:06 PM

I have just recieved my novarossi bonito and I an second guessing myself as I have heard it will be too much for a buggy. What do you guys think? Should I send it back and get the 4btt?

blade954 10-30-2012 06:22 PM


Originally Posted by houston (Post 11329148)
4.98-4.99 new
Recommend being leary of re-rod anything less than 4.92mm

Just for some info although my crank pin looked new the readings I got we're 4.85mm high and 4.82mm wide. Just goes to show what looks good to the naked eye sometimes ain't.

chicky03 10-30-2012 07:05 PM


Originally Posted by Drip (Post 11387087)
I have just recieved my novarossi bonito and I an second guessing myself as I have heard it will be too much for a buggy. What do you guys think? Should I send it back and get the 4btt?

It should be ok. Try all carbon shoes softer clutch springs, steel flywheel, 6 restrictor, 41021 header and 9901 pipe maybe gear up a tooth on the clutch bell. That should tame her down a bit. If you get into a situation where you need the extra power you be able to go more aggressive on the settings above.

chicky03 10-30-2012 07:08 PM


Originally Posted by Relentless89 (Post 11385875)
Its all about the big bad bonito in a buggy!! Im running an older plus 4 motor with a 4c piston sleeve and carb an its awesome...buddy recently put his bonito in his rc8.2 and that thing rips, super froggy bottom end, and insane top end with a 15t bell. I had to buy 1 myself, non ceramic, and jus waiting to break her in....quick question, i usually run my nova at 220-235 for practice and around 280-300 for race...recently My buddy went to the track with his bonito and it was being tuned and was just screaming everywhere, took it off and temped it and it wAs running 310-315...and someone had said the bonito likes 300+ because of the heat sink design...is this even at all true?

I would say 300+ isn't uncommon but not necessarily the ideal temp for every situation.

bigjayjay1 10-30-2012 07:29 PM

Also use your radio its a great tool, throttle curve and EPA. I I have my radio set so my throttle curve can be adjusted by my button on my steering housing if traction sucks then my curve goes into the negative vice a versa for high traction. Also use throttle speed my radio has a ton of adjustment I set were my dials adjust my key functions on the fly.

prowlag 10-30-2012 07:49 PM


Originally Posted by bigjayjay1 (Post 11387436)
Also use your radio its a great tool, throttle curve and EPA. I I have my radio set so my throttle curve can be adjusted by my button on my steering housing if traction sucks then my curve goes into the negative vice a versa for high traction. Also use throttle speed my radio has a ton of adjustment I set were my dials adjust my key functions on the fly.

Are you referring to 'expo' when you are talking about throttle curve? I have been trying -30% for really low-bite tracks. My CRE P5 pulls stumps on the low end and is crazy hard to keep the power down without the rear wanting to wash out...

rcuser567345 10-31-2012 08:31 PM


Originally Posted by prowlag (Post 11387523)
Are you referring to 'expo' when you are talking about throttle curve? I have been trying -30% for really low-bite tracks. My CRE P5 pulls stumps on the low end and is crazy hard to keep the power down without the rear wanting to wash out...

You can try slowing down throttle servo speed a little. You can also try a different manifold and/or pipe to tame the bottom a little. Or different tires, or setup changes for low bite tracks.

nrm1977 10-31-2012 11:18 PM

Guys- For those of you whom "can't" race nitro during the winter months. How do you store your engines? Do you disassemble them? I'm curious to hear some "methods" to ensure a safe storage method. Thanks in advance.

prowlag 11-01-2012 02:40 AM


Originally Posted by chopper82p (Post 11391344)
You can try slowing down throttle servo speed a little. You can also try a different manifold and/or pipe to tame the bottom a little. Or different tires, or setup changes for low bite tracks.

Yep - thanks for spotting the obvious. I was actually talking about the throttle curve and what settings people are running on low bite tracks with the m11x....

kgombe 11-01-2012 03:07 AM

yup he is referring to expo... don't know about the 11x but the M11 had a feature called traction control... what this does is slow the servo down up to a certain point which you can set yourself...

but yes the bigjayjay was referring to expo

Lille-bror 11-01-2012 03:29 AM


Originally Posted by nrm1977 (Post 11391699)
Guys- For those of you whom "can't" race nitro during the winter months. How do you store your engines? Do you disassemble them? I'm curious to hear some "methods" to ensure a safe storage method. Thanks in advance.

Run the engine out of fuel. Remove the fuel line from the carburator and pipe and try restart the engine untill there is no more ignition. Remove the airfilter and pour 1 ml AFO (I uses AeroSynth3 oil) through the carburator. Turn the engine on the starterbox a few seconds with varying throttle positions. Add one more time 1 ml oil in the engine and turn it again on the starterbox. Now you have an engine, where there is no more nitro that can make acid and no more methanol that can attract water. Instead you have an engine, where there is a nice layer of oil all over the inside of the engine.

I know other drivers that fluss their engines with kerosene and soak them in oil afterwards :)


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