+1 the mt12 was a great engine.

I found some specs on the MT12, not much on the MR12

NOVAMUGEN MT12 Rear Exhaust Engine

Factory Specs:
Cubic capacity: 2.1cc
Power: 1.15 H.P.
Rpm: 36,500rpm
Stroke: 14.00 mm
Bore: 13.80 mm
Weight: 215 gr
Shaft diam: 11 mm(SG)

I remember reading something of the differences between the MT12 and the MR12 are something on how the head mates to the block, and extra fins?

(I knew I should have bookmarked that...)

I just found, in looking for the differences, that the MR12 came out in 2003?

I'm taking a wild stab that as old as I think this is, that I have a MT12? I've looked through the Novarossi site, but I can't find an 'exploded-view' of this engine. Anyone know where I could find something like that? Or a list of part numbers?

I'd like to make sure of the part numbers before I order parts...if I can find them. Looks like A Main Hobbies has a P/S/Rod set...

Novarossi .12 Complete Set Piston/Sleeve/Rod 3L (CX12N/MT12)
[NVR08651]

What else? New bearings?

I guess, first off I should be asking, how do I know if it even needs a rebuild?

The sleeve does not appear to have any scratches, the piston is not pitted, and the rod does not seem to have any slop...

I'm not into the hobby enough (yet ) to buy a new engine.....or? (Doesn't seem to make sense buying a NEW engine for an OLD car though)


Ok, I guess I've asked enough newb questions, you may proceed with flaming.

Thanks for replies!

take the mill apart and give it a good cleaning (especially the carb). There are tutorials all over the internet on how to do this. After it is clean and lubed see how it feels.

If you are still unsure there are engine guys across the country that will take a look at it and mic the parts to see if it needs a rebuild.

I finally found the MT12 pdf I was looking for!

I found a massive list of assorted manufacturers manuals and exploded views pdf files at --> lowclasscc.net <-- in the downloads section.

Everything from Airtronics to Zenoah....

I suppose you guys already knew about it (10 years ago ), but I thought I'd share.

I'm still on my quest to find a MT12 manifold and pipe for a side exhaust though.


~Jeff


Edit - I just found a Mugen Manifold, a MUGT0901, would that fit well in my RC10GT non PS? Or an Associated #7737 ?

I'm thinking just a #7730 torque pipe. I'm a budget-basher.

Any other (inexpensive) manifold/pipe recommendations?

Have you looked at tower hobby or Horizon for a manifold? Should be the same for any. 12 side exhaust.

Just passing this info to others.

http://rcspecial.com/news/?p=115375

What fuel is Alessandro Stocco running?

I´m not sure, but the importer for the brands he is running and has been running is this one; http://www.planetracing.it/miscela-c...c-532_534.html
Maybe someone else knows...

Interesting if its Runnertime. Saw Reno Savoya using that at the C-netic race

Looking at pictures of his car you can see stickers with; "Fast Fuel".
Comparing the somewhat odd looking bottle of Fast Fuel with other fuel bottles on the market, I came up with this.


I have never tried Roga fuel, but heard of it several times and... I´m still not running it!

But, I could be completely wrong, it has happen before.

Maybe Monty or Neal can chime in but it looks like the oils varnished the internals in those pics. I had a few motors over the years look like that when I was running Trinity Platinum 8% oil fuel. Normally just cleaned it off and went on about my business.

Its not only bad fuel that screwed that engine over. Look at the cranksahft. That engine must have eaten a LOT of dust...

Something i have found out this summer. I always used to run my engines compleatly out of fuel when finsished for the day. This sumer i forgot a few times and that enigne looks like new inside. No corrosion what so ever. So i took one of my worn out enignes looking good inside, and ran it on the street for a tank of fuel. Ran all the fuel out of it so if would not ignite anymore.

Well, engine ran totaly out of fuel, corroded inside and engine that i just stopped, and even had fuel in the fueltank, was like new inside. This was runnung Meccamo fuel. Avery very good fuel here in europe.

if you noticed the pics of the needles the coating was gone and almost looked like slight pitting has started. Like the fuel ate it away.

Running the fuel out of the engine also removes the lubricant out of the engine

Those internals look like an engine that had been mistreated fershur , lots and lots of
needle screwing which suggests either a very hard to tune fuel or a tuner having a tough time getting a proper mixture

Discoloration is not always a bad thing but with all these lil and also big companies that are producing fuel with one goal in mind , shear performance at expense of longevity to engine internals, its not hard to understand why engines are failing prematurely


Castor oil is important in a fuel blend meant for these little two stroke engines

Its all about the big bad bonito in a buggy!! Im running an older plus 4 motor with a 4c piston sleeve and carb an its awesome...buddy recently put his bonito in his rc8.2 and that thing rips, super froggy bottom end, and insane top end with a 15t bell. I had to buy 1 myself, non ceramic, and jus waiting to break her in....quick question, i usually run my nova at 220-235 for practice and around 280-300 for race...recently My buddy went to the track with his bonito and it was being tuned and was just screaming everywhere, took it off and temped it and it wAs running 310-315...and someone had said the bonito likes 300+ because of the heat sink design...is this even at all true?