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Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10292417)
After metal to metal "pinch" friction is gone and a good compression seal is formed then it is safe to lower deck heighth , I dont like to run shimming any lower than .65mm , preferably .70mm , this will require different shims than what is supplied from the factory
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Originally Posted by Scottyh
(Post 10292475)
So can I remove One of the shims under the head or will I need to buy some? Also what is the advantage of lowering the deck heighth? Thanks
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Originally Posted by Scottyh
(Post 10292475)
So can I remove One of the shims under the head or will I need to buy some? Also what is the advantage of lowering the deck heighth? Thanks
Most of the current line comes in with a 0.80mm shim stack, broken down as a 0.30, 0.30, 0.20mm. So you'll want to remove the 0.20 and replace it with a 0.10 for a total stack of 0.70 That will work well for an engine that is slightly past it's prime, running on 30% nitro, at typical elevation ranges. As the engine ages, it loses it's compression seal and the heat of compression will be lower as well. You can gain some of the performance back by decreasing the deck height, to increase the compression ratio. You can also cheat it by running 1-heat range hotter glowplug, but this isn't quite as reliable; but has a similar effect. |
Originally Posted by mblgjr
(Post 10292883)
If you have any of the current generation Novarossi's you'll have to buy a pack of shims or source one accordingly.
Most of the current line comes in with a 0.80mm shim stack, broken down as a 0.30, 0.30, 0.20mm. So you'll want to remove the 0.20 and replace it with a 0.10 for a total stack of 0.70 That will work well for an engine that is slightly past it's prime, running on 30% nitro, at typical elevation ranges. As the engine ages, it loses it's compression seal and the heat of compression will be lower as well. You can gain some of the performance back by decreasing the deck height, to increase the compression ratio. You can also cheat it by running 1-heat range hotter glowplug, but this isn't quite as reliable; but has a similar effect. |
Not necessarily, but again, it's something that needs to be considered along with your elevation and fuel choice. Not just engine wear.
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Ok. The motor is a plus21-4c. What pipe do you recommend? I'm currently running a jp3
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Originally Posted by Scottyh
(Post 10293213)
Ok. The motor is a plus21-4c. What pipe do you recommend? I'm currently running a jp3
Run the 2084 for slightly more torque; the 9853 for mega torque. The 2096 is becoming a favorite for midsize/larger tracks as well. If you don't want to spring the cash for a Novarossi pipeset (which I suggest you do the pipe, the JP header is actually about 99% identical to the Nova 41021); you can get a budget minded Dynamite 053 (torque) or 086 (top end) set. But the Novas are built stronger and perform better. |
The Jammin pipes tend run make the engines run hotter also.
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Originally Posted by Chris87
(Post 10291216)
Thanks for the fast answer. So you recommend the Plus4C Team instead of the BTT?
I keep this pipe combo in mind, but I have a brand new Losi RE10. Any experiences with this pipe for novas? |
Originally Posted by mblgjr
(Post 10294525)
41021/9901 is a standby that universally works
Run the 2084 for slightly more torque; the 9853 for mega torque. The 2096 is becoming a favorite for midsize/larger tracks as well. If you don't want to spring the cash for a Novarossi pipeset (which I suggest you do the pipe, the JP header is actually about 99% identical to the Nova 41021); you can get a budget minded Dynamite 053 (torque) or 086 (top end) set. But the Novas are built stronger and perform better. |
The Nova Rossi 2096 pipe is an exact copy of an RB 2045, the 2045 is very linear, it depends on what header your using to get the power range your looking for, longer header, gives more bottom, short header, more top end.
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So how does the RB 2087 compare to the 2096 and 9901?
Got one with an RB Fire 11 and was thinking of selling it, and running a 9901 I already have.. Under the vague assumption that the 9901 is more of an allrounder.. More after all-out power than smoothness or runtime.. |
Originally Posted by Herrsavage
(Post 10297007)
So how does the RB 2087 compare to the 2096 and 9901?
Got one with an RB Fire 11 and was thinking of selling it, and running a 9901 I already have.. Under the vague assumption that the 9901 is more of an allrounder.. More after all-out power than smoothness or runtime.. |
Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 10297049)
non of those pipes are for making crazy power., they are more race pipes...put a 9886 or 2058 on it and watch the fireworks...or even better look at a ERCM side bleed and really let her scream LOL !.
http://www.extremercmods.com/pipes |
Originally Posted by t8rtot
(Post 10297175)
i just looked those thing up, holy smokes, that thing looks crazy.. i would really like to see a review on one of them.
http://www.extremercmods.com/pipes they are a really neat pipe , especially so if your not racing and just looking for all out wide open crazy power.....They are hand built and very sturdy.....We had quite a bit of fun testing one of these out last summer..... I know I posted this video a 100 times already....but for HerSavage this would be the pipe he should run if all he's looking for is big power...
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