I think you are having issues and forced to play with plugs because:

1. Your engine is modified.
2. You keep dicking with the needles on the box with a cold engine.
3. You keep dicking with the needles trying to find the sweet spot (I've seen guys take a whole summer trying and never did find it with your particular mod)
4. You keep dicking with the needles because it keeps flaming out. (a conclusive condition of your particular mod)
5. The front bearing is pooched.
6. The rod is getting ready to exit the block.

:nod:

Hahahaha that's all? :confused:

Stop the presses! Did the rules of capitalism change last night and nobody told me?!? You aren't allowed to say that the product you sell is better than your competitors product any more????? :weird:

That's not a vendetta. It's called running a business. You try to convince people to buy your stuff instead of the other guys and sometimes the other guy doesn't like it! You don't agree with what they say, call them on it, nothing wrong with asking somebody to back up their claims.

The way people were talking I thought he was beating somebodies dog or something. :rolleyes:

None are true.

Don't try and bash Clocked engines because I can see its what you're trying to do, they are the best engines I've ever seen running and the fastest. Neal does excellent work with these engines, they are top notch. They are NOT hard to tune.

EDIT, seems you watched my old video, see my newer one.

There is something to be said about saying your product is better than saying his product is crap... Fine line... There is nothing to be said about business here.... And it goes far deeper than you think...

Sure, I don't doubt that it does, but for the people reading this thread all they can see is you quoting somebody saying "4 port motors are better than 3 port motors" and then people losing their mind over it.

If there's a personal issue it should be handled in private. Airing it out in public just makes you all look bad.

Nice! Thank you.

i really want to know what is novarossi coming with next year for 2013.. maybe some new glow plugs... shrugs shoulders

your welcome :rolleyes:

Maybe new crankcases without the vacuum port hole under the carb so you don't have to plug it, or a smaller diameter hole at least?

good point... although i never plugged mine.... not sure of what size they were through out the lives of Novas.. but that a good point..

Whats the point of the vacuum return point anyway? Remove excess fuel from the front of the crankcase or something?

I measured Nova vs. Os plugs around 5 years ago. The taper on the Nova is longer but as I remember the angle and bottom diameter were very close. (measuring with an optical comparator) What I concluded was that Os does not tap the head button as deep and they relieve the plugs to compensate. So if you try to put a Nova plug in a Os button it bottoms out on the threads before the taper seals. I actually relieved a Nova plug so it looked similar to the Os and it worked fine. Now I can see if someone is having trouble with Os plugs ruining a Nova button it may be because there is less surface area and if you overtighten the plug it opens up the hole slightly. I will measure some plugs next week and report my findings.

Rex

Short video
 

Here is a short video of practice. HT P5 9853ss..Mugen buggy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWnXvjOdI-Q&feature=plcp

Hardly accurate, but....


http://imageshack.us/a/img534/4124/plugsn.jpg

I think this is the main problem. If you have to use a cheater pipe on the plug wrench to get t back out you probably just created a problem no matter what plug you used.

thanks Rex...that is exactly what I thought....... Same taper angle, same thread pitch... same bottom diameter.... plug seats perfectly with no issues....;);););).....Issues only from over tightening ......... For those who don't know Rex is a tool and Die maker with access to the most precise measuring tools and techniques.........An Optical comparator is not a joke.......

Thats what I was thinking, people must be over tightening them if they see problems switching back and forth... Alright, problem solved, OS Plugs ARE good as long as you don't over tighten them.

Now people, feel free to try an OS P3/P4 plug and see if you can notice a difference, just don't over tighten it ;)

i have said this same thing about 6 times on this thread and other plug threads :blush:

thanks for confirming Rex

I don't think they will make it smaller or remove it from their crankcases. They want to sell as many 17011's/17012's as possible and if they find vacuum return ports make the bearing lifetime shorter, and make a leaky front bearing more obvious, they wouldn't remove it...I don't think

really?
that is not true man , novarossi is all about bringing the best they possibly can , the only real challenge they have right now is competing price wise with all the low cost and some lower quality engines .

that 17011 is the baddest front bearing on the planet , if you think you need to plug "the vacuum port" do it but i guarantee it is not necessary , its a total non issue . btw , many other manufacturers have the exact same "vacuum port" , why is it only exclusively being talked about for novarossi engines?

flavor of the week to some ;)

plug explanation

I was just guessing, ok maybe I'm wrong.

But I don't think they will remove it anyway.

How do you guy oil/setup your air filters? I want to know what products you use and procedures you use.

it all depends on the level of dust the given track has Theo

lil-no dust - lightly oiled inner outer
heavy dust - medium oiled inner light outer and vet wrap

many levels in between :D

this is the novarossi thread though , lets all talk novarossi !!!:D:nod:

awesomest engines on the planet :nod:

So what we do know is that there are differences in plugs, and over tightening can ruin a Nova button head.

So now we use an OS plug in a Nova without "over tightening." What torque value is that?

Not exactly using a torques wrench when replacing my plugs. And when I'm racing and all I have is a glow plug wrench and a quick glow plug change is required, I'm not exactly hoping my mechanic is thinking about how much to torque the plug.

Rather not take the chance.

I always thought that hole was for lubrictaion of the front bearing. If a crankcase and cranck is perfectly matched, you could will never have a problem with a front bearing leaking or sucking air to mess up your tune. In a perfect engine, the front bearing would only get luberication from that whole.

Well, maybe i was wrong.

Well I'm trying to remove the head of my engine, but he screws are stuck very hard. Do you think heating the engine up with a heat gun will loosen it up?

Thanks

Wise choice ;)

Besides I prefer my glowplugs tight and fresh :nod:

amongst other things... LOL

Over tightening means gorilla tightening it.

Snug it and tighten it to where you feel is enough that it won't come out but not gorilla'd

Exactly my main point. Thank you.

yes heat it up to about 200* and you should get it loose then.

I contact Nova they sent me to their engine designer / engineer. I explained the debate and details and asked if he could determine if a OS plug is usable in a Nova Turbo button.. I'm waiting for a response once received I will post. I personally won't run OS plugs in my Novas cause of my experiences.

yes,heat it up,and use a wery big screwdriver.
If i dont remember wrong i did use a 4mm first.I could lurk it around in the screwhead and it did ruin the screws a little.
Then i find a bigger and thicker 5mm that fits just exactly in the screwhead.
I had to hammer it a little to fit.And with the bigger handle of this screwdriver it was a piece of cake to get it loose.

Get a 5.8 flathead screwdriver, thats all you need to remove it.

http://clockworkracingengines.com/co...-pcs-am-130992

Bigger handle=more torque, so it will remove em. I have those drivers, they're awesome.

in two different novas i did plug "the vacum port"after inspection,in both cases it seems to idle better.This is done while the bearings are stil new,not leaking.
Maybe it is the tuning,maybe it is the vacum i dont know.
When that is said i did already have 3 novas.
The first one 21-4 was never pluged and lasted around 40 liter,didnt change or do anything to it.
Second one 21-4 did only last around 30-35liter then the clips holding the piston pin did came of making scratches.

The first one i then did change the bearings,and only the bearings just to try.
It was almoust impossible to tune right,but i did get pretty close.
Then i did see the video about this hole needded to be plugged.
So i did.Then it was more easy to tune and it did idle better.The bearings was not enough to make it good after 40 liter,i did expect this,but anyway...

I also have a 21-4btt and i did have a runaway with it ruining the bearings.
This one had around 12 liter.When i changed to avid back and front bearings i also pluged the vacum port.
And it idles better and is more easy to tune.I hardly need to adjust the needles anymore.

So as i can see it it is not so importent to do it and maybe i loose a few second on a tank or something i dont know.But it also dosent hurt to plug the vacum hole

what happen with my engine it only goes 5-6 minutes OMG i use 6.5 venturi restrictor and new carb. and my LSN 2 turn out is there any thing wrong....

Pipe/header? How much fuel has been thru this engine? Clutch?

Check your fuel system. You could have a leak at the tank or in a fuel line causing it to loose massive amounts of fuel.

Just finished breaking in a P5xlt, a month after breaking in a +4. The p5 seemed much easier, that thing screamed right away. Seems like it took all the way to 2 gallons for the +4 to come around

I have a p5xlt that I just got with a 811 buggy and it only has about 3/4 gallon on it but I need to retune it. Does someone have a good base line for the settings. Thanks.