DO NOT put an OS plug in ur nova. Bad idea. Even if you tighten it to just barely make a seal, the risk is not worth it.

Is the low speed needle on the plus4C team just used for adjusting the idle or does it adjust the low speed as well?

You could potentially destroy the taper seal within the head button. And your engine will be far from consistent. Seen it too many times...

Just for the low speed, the amount of fuel in the mixture will determine if the fuel will kinda load up in the engine, which causes the 2 stage idle, lowering the idle because the engine is loaded with fuel, and dying.

Nope, I use a P4 plug in my P5 and I can interchange plugs perfectly.

I highly recommend a p4 plug. Maybe put a nova plug in it and remove it and put a p4 in it right after and when u start it up again u will notice a difference.

And once again if u "properly" tune the nova plug it wil be juuuuuussssst fine

I have cured flameout problems, drivability issues, drastic runtime depletion issues, and tuning inconsistency issues by installing new head buttons on Novarossi engines AFTER THEY HAVE BEEN RAN WITH OS PLUGS. It destroys the taper seal. Once the engine heats up to "racing temperature" the engine does not operate to its peak potential.
And for your viewing pleasure....

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9a649fbd.jpg

Found this interesting

http://www.fioroni-usa.com/productsglowplugs.html

Unfortunately, I have to disagree again. We spent an hour at the track trying to get my engine to stop flaming out with no luck till I got an os p4 plug. Idled stronger with MORE torque, and tuned very well, fixed my flame out problem.

And not just me, the other engine expert guys at the track were stumped.

Peak potential? That's funny. Upon installation, it seemed my engine had more torque and felt faster overall!

It won't ruin anything as long as you don't over torque it.

And yeah, because Novarossi is like santa Claus, he knows when ur sleeping, he knows when ur awake, he knows if you've installed os plugs in your nova, right,?

Read that better, it says damaged caused by that plug, not something like a manufacturing defect.

You will always get better torque with a hotter plug because of the earlier ignition. I saw an engine that normally runs Nova plugs. Then he tried an OS plug and that also worked well. BUT!!!! When he took out the OS plug, there where small metal fragments on the thread of the plug and in the thread in the head. Why? Because the OS plug will make a new thread...

They're snowballed Bjarne, why bother

Viva la novarossi !

The "Don't use OS plugs in non-OS engines.." line is overrated - and overstated IMO.. I say that mostly just because of the sheer number of guys - experienced guys, into racing for years - who run OS plugs in their non-OS engines, and Novarossis especially.. I had a Nova last year I'd bought used which came with a P3, and it ran flawlessly. And again, even RMV Germany - which means Daniel Reckward afaik, recommends officially on their website the P3 for the RB Fire 11 (Nova parts) for people who use Tornado fuel, because of idle issues with the stock RB (i.e. Nova, or in any case nearly NR, non-OS) plug... I think the issue is blown out of proportion.

Need to change the front bearing on my 21 4c (i think) 5 gallons on it great pinch just having inconsistent idle issues.... Anything special about the novas i need to know? or tricks? Also what is the size of the front bearing? Thanks -Tim

Well
 

In my experience OS p3's are too hot for a nova. They get burned up quickly. The wire in a p3 is really thin, and it don't fit the taper either.

I have been using a Nova c6 and it works perfectly.

you know what sunny.. one of the guys that advocates P# plugs ... once said this same statement a months ago... now its the best thing since slice bread...


i have ran OS plugs in my Nova engines before but there was a time when NOva plugs had an issue, but now these plugs run as strong and last long...

so if you have old stock or buy from a hobby shop that doesn't have a good turn around on nova pugs.. then you maybe putting old nova plugs in your engine... something to think about

They made no new thread in my head button, I was careful turning it in, went in easier than my c6tgc, so obviolusy it couldn't have made new threads, I was turning it with 2 fingers and felt absolutely no abnormal resistance.

Exactly, everyone I know who races P5s use a P3 or P4 plug.

All I have to say is that upon installation of the P4 plug, my issues were instantly remedied.

7x19x6.3

I recommend a TKO ceramic front bearing: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Novarossi-RB-1

You can block your vacuum return port in your engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdt2luUlbuI

Are you sure your inconsistent idle issues are caused by a bad front bearing?

I just threw in a p4 plug in my proto 7 today whilst I was working a couple of tanks through her. It sincerely made the mill idle soooo much better. I don't really care for any particular brand plug but all I will say is the p4 will now be my plug if choice for my clocked nova mills.

And the plug debate rages on. I really just need to know the best way to tune the plus4c Team. Do I tune high speed first and then low or vise versa. Chopper gave me some good suggestions and I just want to make sure I don't screw the tune up. If someone could give me a in-depth description I would appreciate it. Thanks.

Go lookup Tebo's engine tuning guide on youtube. I'm sure you can find it. That will help you.

Os plugs will provide a broader range of tuning , os short tapered seal plugs work just fine bin novarossi but that doesnt mean it is the right thing todo

Try a c5tgc , its pretty close to os p4

So 7x19x6 is ok. That 6.3 seems pretty critical. All those motor bearings i find are by 6.0mm?

6.3 because the 17011 (or 17012?) bearing thats in the engine, the inner race protrudes .3mm. Any 7x19x6 or 6.3 bearing will work perfect.

Low speed first, what I told you should be enough to get you pretty close to a perfect tune.

Low speed on the starter box, high speed tuning after track driving, reset the idle gap to .6mm. If you have any problems, just post here and me or some of the other guys will help you out.

Maybe I will take a video of switching from a c5tgc or c6tgc to an OS P4 so everyone can see how much better the idle is. Actually, I will do it now.

Thanks chopper I got it pretty damn close and am very happy with how it is right now. I would love to see a video on the plug debate. Thanks again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riiBq...ature=youtu.be

0:54 (c6tgc) and 2:35 (p4) are good idles the difference is noticeable in the video, but in real life, its even more noticeable. yeah i know, the c6tgc idle was higher than the p4 but you can still tell the difference.



Dont mind the crude tune, havn't tuned it for a week so its pretty off from where it should be. (and don't duplicate what I was doing with the needles lol)

The video clearly shows that there is NO problems switching between plugs, convinced yet guys?

great to hear, if you have any other questions, just ask.

Loving my P5. Getting right at 9 min per tank with c6 plug and re12 pipe. Smooth power.

Im sorry , you are right ,i should've known

Oh Houston. Ones beliefs only go as far as he can preach them as long as they listen.

proof is in the video

so true

I can tune ANY plug in ANY engine if all things are right , guaranteed

And i am not talkin out my ass

Your video really only shows lack of tuning ability , i know it sounds harsh but it is very true

I am a completely no BS kinda guy , ask around , you will see


I support novarossi factory the best i can , they know this

There was a period of a few years where i would not use the nova plugs , i recommended other brands ( not OS ) , they remedied the issue , all is well now

Like I said, I didn't try to tune it, the tune was off, I just wanted it running.

I actually was just outside getting the tune perfect.

I will post you a video tomorrow to show the engine absolutely perfectly tuned with both plugs ok and then we can't complain about lack of tuning ability.

As you can see, the servo was out of the car, car was not run for a week and a half, no reason for me to try and tune it. But fine, I'll take a video tomorrow.

Ok maybe you can tune any plug on any engine, well, c6tgc in P5 kept flaming out, nobody at the track can figure it out, installed OS P4 plug, issues remedied instantly.

I will take a better video with the thing tuned perfect so everyone can see and so there are no other problems skeptics can feed on.

I understand you support novarossi but when people have problems and they are using brand new nova plugs, they get mad and buy a whole new OS engine or any other engine thats not a Novarossi. As long as the engine runs fine regardless of the plug, the customer will be happy and will buy more Novarossi engines. Nova plugs should not be the only option customers have for their engines and it just so happens that for me and many others, it performs better.

I'll show it to you tuned with both plugs, nova and the OS.

Doesn't sound harsh, ok I understand the thing wasn't tuned in the video, I stated that already though, but tomorrow everyone will see a much better video with a perfectly tuned engine.

ok can't wait to see a video.. who cares.... fact remains.. is that YOU cant get it tuned on a Nova plug so what .. big deal... lots of people can't... so you choose a different plug.. SOOO WHHHAAAATTT..

But i can and lots of people can.. but again .. WHO CARES... let it die ... you got your engine running the way you like.. go ahead and run it ... jeeze...

very fair post chopper , kudos to you bro

if you have a hard time tuning use a c5tgc , much broader tuning window , i would much rather recommend an odonnell plug or werks plug over OS plugs , like i said i know they work but they are not the right "FIT" for novarossi head buttons

novarossi head buttons are designed with a combustion bowl that is pretty flat up towards the taper , there is a specific reason for this but in turn it has much less material in the bottom part of the seal area , this is why the short taper plugs will deform the bowl , when you put a long taper back in it is not touching the last 35-40% of the taper towards the bottom .

some people try to discredit what i know for there own vendictive reasons which you dont know , i know very well what i am talking about , read through all the threads where racers have followed my advice and never had such an easy time running nitro bro


i try my damdest to help , i really do , if it falls on def ears i cant help that

and btw , your idling issues are coming from putting a long taper plug back into a deformed hole , the plug does not seal properly anymore , they do not like to idle and will run a little warmer and inconsistent , ive seen it hundreds if not thousands of times

perrotto is no dummy , his stuff always runs great and he is a great problem solver

I am coming from E buggy and going nitro and you guys have been very helpful but I have another question about tuning. When a motor is idling and it starts to idle higher instead of doing a drop idle does that mean that the bottom is very lean or is there something else going on?

Your video proves abosutely nothing. You are flaming out with the with the nova plug because when the engine gets hot enough the taper area in the button expands slightly and causes a leak, because you created a new taper with the OS plug. Never once did i say that it wont run right with the OS plug, but it will never run the same if you attempt to run any other turbo plugs like OD, nova ect. Like I said I have experienced this before more than just a couple times. If you put a new head button on there and go run it agin with your nova plug you will understand.

many times i find its a tank pressure issue , to compensate you will have to give it a "false" tune

I just did a tank pressure test under water and if I blow real hard I get bubbles. That could explain my tuning issue.