I had an OD 97T in my Argus for about two gallons including break-in, and as far as I can remember I only took it out because I felt like I should after that long. And have never had issues running them in anything else. Even their standard plugs - the purples - are the best for MT .28's IMO - regardless of the fact that they are cheap.

Thats awesome

try to lean on a 97t though ;)

anybody....Monty??

Heavy flywheel will smooth low speed torque of engine and will provide better traction by doing so on most fluffy/dusty/loose track conditions

lighter flywheel equals just the opposite and better for high traction situations or truggy

now back to your regularly scheduled novarossi talk , lol

I had a issue with nova plugs only lasting one 7 min heat
And arfter throwing 4 down the drain as being dead I did a last ditch effort
And put a p3 in there and no problems didn't alter the tune or any thing

Now last week I thought my x7 was faulty as I was killing plugs on run in
So now I'm thinking it was the plugs so in total I killed 8 plugs in one gallon
But as soon as I swapped both engines over to p3 no issue

I haven't had a issue up to this date with nova plugs

Plugs
 

The 97t is a pretty hot plug. I agree it's great for break in or an engine that likes warmer plugs or a cold day. Most of the time a c6tgc is most likely the most true medium plug although it's a pretty thin wire with a smaller hole and it does last a tad bit longer than a 97t not long enough. it can be tough to say for a fact which plugs last longer due to conditions of running, engines, etc.. but the c6tgc is a good dummy proof choice for sure. In hot conditions with low humidity the c7tgc is a great choice in hard running engines like the p5 and 7 ports and the btt 4 ports seem to like the c6tgc all the time or my personal favorite the 99t. Too bad it's not made anymore or at least to my understanding. I think the p3 plugs are too hot and burn out faster than a 97t. If your just stubborn and have to run an OS I would use a p4 plug.

I have been running a plug that ran the last main for practice and qualifying and putting a fresh one in for the main. saves plugs and seems to work really good like that. It would be nice to see a few more plug choices for Nova engines. 10-12 bucks for a plug is pretty steep for swapping out plugs every day of running. The 87t and 99t plugs seem to last longer than the 97t. the 97t is a bit hit or miss but the other less available plugs are awesome. why they keep 97t's around and drop the good ones I don't understand.

A c6tgc is a good plug if its going out before a full day of running something is most likely wrong. You should be able to get a full day of practice quals and a main from one. No more than that. Check the plug if it's distorted or fried check ur tune and replace it only after making sure the engine is not to blame. Throwing plugs in an engine that is dirty or tuned wrong or has issues will only kill more plugs. Hot days combined with large fast tracks can cook a plug quickly so in those cases change em out or go to a cooler plug like the c7tgc but only if it's dry and hot at night I switch back to c6tgc.:nod:

race ready plugs
 

Im'e an Ammeter ,But I often do this .First i get a race tune with old plug ,then fit new plug of correct heat range ,,run a few laps to get back up to temp ,and allow the fuel additives to coat the plug ,inspect and store for A Main .The previous comment about heat cycling makes sense also . Plug life is governed by the amount of Cadmium coating the filament ! This is because when Methanol comes into contact with certain elements ,incl Cadmium Spontaneous Combustion is achieved .The amount of time the plug is exposed to methanol governs the life of the plug . Therefore the higher the RPM the shorter time span .Rich Mixture ,short life ,plug wet after shut down ,ie stopping engine by exhaust,which leaves the combustion chamber wet ,short plug life .
this is provided youre tune set-up is spot on :weird:

It's an onroad thing, something the pros starting doing during Nova's dark period of crappy glow plugs.

I always run Werks #5 and sometimes a #6, never had any issues with it, and last long.. Never had one fail I just replace them when I think its time... And that gets longer and longer :lol:

It's a good idea to go through one tank each on any new plug, before you bring it as a spare.. some plugs are duds right out of the box.. and some last only a lap or two. So you want to weed out the bad ones, before trusting them with an important task.

I know this question has been asked and debated to death. Can I use OS plugs on P5 engine? I am willing to take the risk of not being able to use the Nova plugs again. The Nova plugs are expensive and out of stock on amain. We have a race coming up and pals have OS plugs. Just need to know if it will seat well and won't make the engine run erratic?

Will greatly appreciate your quick response.

Just don't torque them like a Cummins head bolt and you'll be fine.

There is no problem using a glowplug for a gallon if it is shiny and you are on the Rich side. Should you do it under racetune, no.

I use a New glowplug for quals, one for the semipractice and semi and one for the finale With the New plugs.

but, when the glowplug, only last a qual, and you take a New one out of the same 5pack and that lasts the NeXT 4 quals, i change and that one only last the semi practice. takes another one and that one can og the semi and fianle if i am in a hurry.

last year i use two glowplugs for a race. One before freepractice to have Control over the tune for the track. This one i change before semi practice, again to keep the tune in check. It would be fine for the semi and finale without problems.

The New Nova plugs is not as good as before. That is my experience.

I just tested my modded P5 in truggy, with a brand new Werks(rebranded) clutch. 2058 Werks pipe, Nova #6 plug. It was far and away the turdiest turd of an engine I've ever run. Clutch has 2x 1.0 & 2x .9 springs (I think) Must be the clutch? It basically felt like I way running a 10T CB..(stock is 14..)

Put my RB Fire 11 in (same pipe and a stock AE clutch), and it kicked axx.. What's going on here?

Try a 9853 or 9886. Wrong pipe

Would a Dynamite 053 and Ofna 086 be close enough?

Funnily enough, those are all the three pipes I've tested so far...

+ YouTube Video

So far the 086 seemed the most promising I guess.. But I was worried it'd lack bottom for truggy..

2058 barks on a Nova p5.........if the engine is soggy on a 2058 I would be looking for other issues..i would also check the head clearance to make sure its not off.....And if you don't know how to do it then its a great time to learn how !

What do I do then? The engine seriously felt like a .15... Temps were 250-260, and I could see smoke.. Is it conceivable that it would have run like that just from having a lean LSN and a rich HSN? Idle was a perfect low pur. That's the only thing so far I like about this engine - purs great at idle, and easy to tune(responsive to adjustments)... But power-wise it has been totally lame so far.. I figured that what I had seen previously was due to running on pavement, and figured once I hit the (rough, blown out, low-traction) track, it'd come into its own or something.

A bit fat NOPE on that though..

Tuning issue..

+ YouTube Video

Is it even broke in yet? I thought you just recently got this engine. I've seen guys say it can take 2 gallons to fully break them in. Just a thought. If you had break in service done to it, that does not mean its done,(break in). Good luck.

I've broken in a bunch of engines in the last few years, from various brands, and all have broken in, tuned, and run well - and still do.

Something is up I haven't encountered before. I don't believe this engine is that much of a turd. I had an older version (REX) modded used one a couple years back, and it ran great (albeit with a 9901/short) This one tunes and idles great, but power-wise, from what I've seen so far, it couldn't hang with a Go 3-port...

Clutch. Make some adjustments or swap out.

Just picked me up a gallon and a half old Beat 5 from a buddy of mines and I noticed it comes with the regular black stock front bearing and not the blue 17011.Thats a little dissapointing and was wondering if anyone is having any issues with the front bearing? It doesnt appear to be leaking at this time but I'm considering replacing it now before there is a problem. Any thoughts?

i would recommend putting new front bearing in it , the less expensive bearings dont usually last for more than 1.5-2 gallons of fuel and can have the seal compromised even sooner by running lsn blubbery rich .

hope this helps

well if the head clearance is out you can probably adjust the shims to get a proper head clearance..........Very recently I have come across a few oddball engines that had the wristpin hole drilled too high on the piston by 0.6 mm, lowering the piston crown by 0.6 mm more then standard, which not only completely throws off the sleeve timing it also throws off the overall head shimming..... The engine had .6 mm more head clearance then it should have...The engine ran amazingly well considering..it idled well and seemed to tune easy, but it had no power whatsoever....extremely lazy on the throttle with almost no bottom end......

That definitely helps and will give me a piece of mind. Thanks!

Hi, I just got a nova btt and was experiencing issues with mounting it. I have a losi 8ight 2.0 and run a werks 34 mm clutch. After I mounted it, the starter box wheel would not engage with the flywheel. I have the losi starter box. It seems as if the flywheel is slightly higher than what I had on the previous engine. Have any of you losi guys had this problem? I know I'd need a different engine mount, just would like to know which one. All help is appreciated. Thanks.

Just space your starter motor higher with some washers under the mounts.

Hey All, racing Saturday I got my buggy fitted BTT WC 2084/41001 a little hot. I didn't have a temp gun handy so went the wipe of spit test. It was HOT as in 15-20min into the 30min run it became extremely sluggish. Sunday I tried to retune and had it idle great both on the box and after a 7min run but couldn't seem to get good poke off the bottom. Pulled the motor apart and all looks good, what might I be missing?

Thanks
Michael

Compression ;)

bad pipe choice btw

Holding the engine horizontal by the flywheel it will ever so slow fall over TDC, very slowly. Before buying a new P&S and sending it to be lapped I'll try the 2096 again as at the sting on the 2084 now has a dent. Also going to retune still with the purple mizer but with a .5 idle as I was closed a 1/4 of a turn from that.

Michael.

PM Sent

The losi 2.0 starter box should have no problems engaging with the engine/clutch setup that you described.

Are you possibly running a 32mm clutch? Also, are you using the losi quick change motor mounts? The combination of the two, along with a worn starter box wheel could be causing the issue.

Does anybody know if I can put my plus4 c team internals into a p5xs case? I have a few of the cooling fins on the bottom of my plus4 case broke and i realy dont know if it cracked all the way through.

trying to get rid of a 2 stage idle 5pxlt when it comes in for a fuel stop idle is just a touch high then drops after 5 secs?? is my idle gap the issue?
cheers

there is always going to be a 2 stage idle to some degree or another.....what you dont want is a engine that comes in high idling with a ringy ping ping going on......Typically a engine should come in with a strong steady idle, maybe a touch high, then after a couple seconds the idle should drop to a lower steady idle, then eventually drop to a low loping idle....When a engine comes in it immediately starts cooling down..as it cools the tune becomes richer and the internal drag increases, so the idle will naturally drop if the tune is correct......

To expand on what Neal said... You may need to lean your low end a touch (1 to 2 hours) a little at a time and then lower your idle gap using the idle screw. That will eliminate the 5 second drop in idle. My engine will idle at a normal rate for about 10 to 12 seconds and then start to drop. At that point you should be good. Monitor the temps at idle to make sure they aren't climbing after a high speed pass. When you give it a full pull from idle after about 20 seconds you should get a a nice puff of smoke from the pipe and only a very very slight hesitation, it should clear out rather quickly.

The idle can sound too lean if the idle speed is too high, even if the mixture is too rich.

First make sure the HSN is leaned out, so it starts to "sing" on the straight. Too many runs Novarossis too rich on the top, because they think they have all the power the engine can deliver, but there is often more without running the HSN lean.

I normally lean the LSN until I can hear its too lean (ding ding sound and increased idlespeed after a second or so), and then back off a little until the idle is nice and steady. At that point you can still have a 2 stage idle but its only due to a little too high idlespeed.

ANYONE recognize these Mugshots??
 

I wanted to try a 41020 header on my 9853/Bonito for my Truggy to up the bottom grunt. I have a 41021 and a "Mystery" header a friend of mine gave me a while back that has been buried in my RC junk pile. Before I go buying a new 41020, I was thinking this header I have dug up might be similar to the 41020 and wondered if anyone can help ID/compare it to a 41020. No big deal, I can buy a 41020 if not, but it would be cool if it worked...:sneaky:

Pic 1: the two header picture has a 41021 on top (for comparison) and the mystery header on the bottom.

Pic 2: shows a unique side of the header that hopefully someone can recognize and tell me the name/brand/part # of this header.

PIC 1
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMAG1018.jpg

PIC 2
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMAG1019.jpg

Bonito bottom end
 

I think you are running the wrong pipe setup for the Bonito in truggy. I run the 41001 header with a 9886 and it is fast everywhere. I think neil from clockwork has posted this before. This may not get you 10 minutes but I would rather be fast and pit at 7:30 .