Looks like a non turbo button. I don't see the taper a turbo head would have. And being that old Im not sure if turbo plugs even existed then.

Any advantages to the btts prerun over the btt prerun? Other than the ceramic front bearing?

Amazing how it works! Excellent carburation! Congratulations

Pipe Nova 2096:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pe-No-Manifold

Manifold Nova 41020; 41021; 41029 and 41030:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Road-Manifold
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Road-Manifold
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Manifold-Mugen
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Manifold-Mugen

Nope...ceramic front bearing and the price are the only differences between BTTS and BTT. :eek:

Old School.....
 

Anyone else have any more information on the M12?

I am having a hard time finding much for it.

I'm guessing that it is from the mid-90's?

what else do you want to know?

if you expand your search for MT12 you'll have more hits.

I have one in my FTGT and I think it's one of the best nitro motors ever made. Perfect for nitro trucks. Just keeps going and going

Any idea what pipe this is? I'm guessing since it's probably 15+ years old, there are better pipes nowadays...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...0/DSCF5973.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...0/DSCF5972.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...0/DSCF5976.JPG

I'd like, if I could, to make it a side instead of a rear facing pipe. What manifold/pipe would you recommend? I'm just a basher, I don't want spend huge money. Lookin for a torque pipe I guess.

Sorry for the newb questions, thanks for not :flaming: me.....

Pretty sure it's a MIP pipe. Had one on my RC10GT 17 yrs ago, lol.

Def one of my fav .12 engines. Good for on road and off. Wish it was still avail.

+1 the mt12 was a great engine.

Newb is back.
 

I found some specs on the MT12, not much on the MR12

NOVAMUGEN MT12 Rear Exhaust Engine

Factory Specs:
Cubic capacity: 2.1cc
Power: 1.15 H.P.
Rpm: 36,500rpm
Stroke: 14.00 mm
Bore: 13.80 mm
Weight: 215 gr
Shaft diam: 11 mm(SG)

I remember reading something of the differences between the MT12 and the MR12 are something on how the head mates to the block, and extra fins?

(I knew I should have bookmarked that...)

I just found, in looking for the differences, that the MR12 came out in 2003?

I'm taking a wild stab that as old as I think this is, that I have a MT12? I've looked through the Novarossi site, but I can't find an 'exploded-view' of this engine. Anyone know where I could find something like that? Or a list of part numbers?

I'd like to make sure of the part numbers before I order parts...if I can find them. Looks like A Main Hobbies has a P/S/Rod set...

Novarossi .12 Complete Set Piston/Sleeve/Rod 3L (CX12N/MT12)
[NVR08651]

What else? New bearings?

I guess, first off I should be asking, how do I know if it even needs a rebuild?

The sleeve does not appear to have any scratches, the piston is not pitted, and the rod does not seem to have any slop...

I'm not into the hobby enough (yet :sneaky:) to buy a new engine.....or? (Doesn't seem to make sense buying a NEW engine for an OLD car though)


Ok, I guess I've asked enough newb questions, you may proceed with flaming. :rolleyes:

Thanks for replies!

take the mill apart and give it a good cleaning (especially the carb). There are tutorials all over the internet on how to do this. After it is clean and lubed see how it feels.

If you are still unsure there are engine guys across the country that will take a look at it and mic the parts to see if it needs a rebuild.

Still here...
 

I finally found the MT12 pdf I was looking for!

I found a massive list of assorted manufacturers manuals and exploded views pdf files at --> lowclasscc.net <-- in the downloads section.

Everything from Airtronics to Zenoah....

I suppose you guys already knew about it (10 years ago :rolleyes: ), but I thought I'd share.

I'm still on my quest to find a MT12 manifold and pipe for a side exhaust though.


~Jeff


Edit - I just found a Mugen Manifold, a MUGT0901, would that fit well in my RC10GT non PS? Or an Associated #7737 ?

I'm thinking just a #7730 torque pipe. I'm a budget-basher. :blush:

Any other (inexpensive) manifold/pipe recommendations?

Have you looked at tower hobby or Horizon for a manifold? Should be the same for any. 12 side exhaust.

Just passing this info to others.

http://rcspecial.com/news/?p=115375

http://rcspecial.com/news/wp-content.../nr3010121.jpg

What fuel is Alessandro Stocco running?

I´m not sure, but the importer for the brands he is running and has been running is this one; http://www.planetracing.it/miscela-c...c-532_534.html
Maybe someone else knows... :)

Interesting if its Runnertime. Saw Reno Savoya using that at the C-netic race

Looking at pictures of his car you can see stickers with; "Fast Fuel". :tire:
Comparing the somewhat odd looking bottle of Fast Fuel with other fuel bottles on the market, I came up with this. :)
Attachment 987142

I have never tried Roga fuel, but heard of it several times and... I´m still not running it! :sneaky:

But, I could be completely wrong, it has happen before. :lol:

Maybe Monty or Neal can chime in but it looks like the oils varnished the internals in those pics. I had a few motors over the years look like that when I was running Trinity Platinum 8% oil fuel. Normally just cleaned it off and went on about my business.

Its not only bad fuel that screwed that engine over. Look at the cranksahft. That engine must have eaten a LOT of dust...

Something i have found out this summer. I always used to run my engines compleatly out of fuel when finsished for the day. This sumer i forgot a few times and that enigne looks like new inside. No corrosion what so ever. So i took one of my worn out enignes looking good inside, and ran it on the street for a tank of fuel. Ran all the fuel out of it so if would not ignite anymore.

Well, engine ran totaly out of fuel, corroded inside and engine that i just stopped, and even had fuel in the fueltank, was like new inside. This was runnung Meccamo fuel. Avery very good fuel here in europe.

if you noticed the pics of the needles the coating was gone and almost looked like slight pitting has started. Like the fuel ate it away.

Running the fuel out of the engine also removes the lubricant out of the engine ;)

Those internals look like an engine that had been mistreated fershur , lots and lots of
needle screwing which suggests either a very hard to tune fuel or a tuner having a tough time getting a proper mixture

Discoloration is not always a bad thing but with all these lil and also big companies that are producing fuel with one goal in mind , shear performance at expense of longevity to engine internals, its not hard to understand why engines are failing prematurely


Castor oil is important in a fuel blend meant for these little two stroke engines ;)

Super froggy
 

Its all about the big bad bonito in a buggy!! Im running an older plus 4 motor with a 4c piston sleeve and carb an its awesome...buddy recently put his bonito in his rc8.2 and that thing rips, super froggy bottom end, and insane top end with a 15t bell. I had to buy 1 myself, non ceramic, and jus waiting to break her in....quick question, i usually run my nova at 220-235 for practice and around 280-300 for race...recently My buddy went to the track with his bonito and it was being tuned and was just screaming everywhere, took it off and temped it and it wAs running 310-315...and someone had said the bonito likes 300+ because of the heat sink design...is this even at all true?

Does the 21-4C absolutely need the 6.3mm front bearing, or can you fit a regular run of the mill 6mm one?

You can use any 7x19x6 bearing. Just add some more shims between the engine and flywheel :)

Well that's money saved :D I'm sure the Nova front bearing is super awesome, but other bearings are half the price :)

Has anyone used a Mugen 2042 (OS 2050 i think) on a Toro Nero,If so did it run OK.

Ross

I have just recieved my novarossi bonito and I an second guessing myself as I have heard it will be too much for a buggy. What do you guys think? Should I send it back and get the 4btt?

Just for some info although my crank pin looked new the readings I got we're 4.85mm high and 4.82mm wide. Just goes to show what looks good to the naked eye sometimes ain't.

It should be ok. Try all carbon shoes softer clutch springs, steel flywheel, 6 restrictor, 41021 header and 9901 pipe maybe gear up a tooth on the clutch bell. That should tame her down a bit. If you get into a situation where you need the extra power you be able to go more aggressive on the settings above.

I would say 300+ isn't uncommon but not necessarily the ideal temp for every situation.

Also use your radio its a great tool, throttle curve and EPA. I I have my radio set so my throttle curve can be adjusted by my button on my steering housing if traction sucks then my curve goes into the negative vice a versa for high traction. Also use throttle speed my radio has a ton of adjustment I set were my dials adjust my key functions on the fly.

Are you referring to 'expo' when you are talking about throttle curve? I have been trying -30% for really low-bite tracks. My CRE P5 pulls stumps on the low end and is crazy hard to keep the power down without the rear wanting to wash out...

You can try slowing down throttle servo speed a little. You can also try a different manifold and/or pipe to tame the bottom a little. Or different tires, or setup changes for low bite tracks.

Guys- For those of you whom "can't" race nitro during the winter months. How do you store your engines? Do you disassemble them? I'm curious to hear some "methods" to ensure a safe storage method. Thanks in advance.

Yep - thanks for spotting the obvious. I was actually talking about the throttle curve and what settings people are running on low bite tracks with the m11x....

yup he is referring to expo... don't know about the 11x but the M11 had a feature called traction control... what this does is slow the servo down up to a certain point which you can set yourself...

but yes the bigjayjay was referring to expo

Run the engine out of fuel. Remove the fuel line from the carburator and pipe and try restart the engine untill there is no more ignition. Remove the airfilter and pour 1 ml AFO (I uses AeroSynth3 oil) through the carburator. Turn the engine on the starterbox a few seconds with varying throttle positions. Add one more time 1 ml oil in the engine and turn it again on the starterbox. Now you have an engine, where there is no more nitro that can make acid and no more methanol that can attract water. Instead you have an engine, where there is a nice layer of oil all over the inside of the engine.

I know other drivers that fluss their engines with kerosene and soak them in oil afterwards :)