Originally Posted by Dreaming rc (Post 8856797)

What about the dynamite 007? pipe

Originally Posted by VWVR6_T (Post 8857203)

if you are looking for a inexpensive pipe the 2035 (any of them, brand wise) will make you happy. Best pipe I had besides the 2013,2058 and 2057. look back in the first 100 pages there is lot of information of different pipes tested.

Originally Posted by DPowers (Post 8850994)

Hey Ron i am having some trouble that i havent had before with my b5 this is my 5th one but here is my problem the motor will run rich for a lap or two then lean for a few laps then back to rich my first guess was an air leak so i changed all fuel lines and tested the tank and it didnt have any leaks but i tried a different tank to be sure i also checked for leaks in the motor but didnt see none there neither any advise would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by hookem34 (Post 8850734)

Well this still seems unclear (bear with me on this).

Are you saying that each tank I run that I should only pull the throtle 1/4(or whatever the distance is for the LS to be out of the spray bar) to keep the LS needle in the spray bar? I mean I can theoreticaly use a full pull on the throtle for each break in tank and it will not go very fast do to the rich HS setting.

I can't be the only person who thinks this is more confusing than it should be, right? Using your method on my first Werks B5 went perfectly fine but I completely disregarded this step in question and continually pulled the air filter to observe the air gap until it was down to a .5mm before I started messing with the HS needle.

I have a B6 I am going to break in this weekend and I want to really get it right this time.

Ron maybe you could PM me and we could exchange numbers so I don't hijack this thread any more with my nonsense :lol:

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 8857629)

Lol, "just look back in the first 100 pages" it sounds funny reading that! Who would have though that this would turn into such a mega thread just a year ago! Thanks again to all that have supported us and chosen to give our engines a shot, it is appreciated!

I've been a little bussy the last few days but will be back on here working through the last pages of questions, sorry about the delay!

Regards,

Ron

Originally Posted by J.Sears (Post 8857781)

I ran a RE10 pipe on mine when I first got it which I think is about the same thing as the os 2060 pipe and it was pretty good but then I got a 2013 and man that engine came to life. I couldn't believe the difference it made. It's worth the extra money trust me.

Originally Posted by VWVR6_T (Post 8866676)

LMAO, I forgot the count, how many times I read and hear that. The werks pipes make you look like this :D in the stand, isn't it?.

Originally Posted by J_Man (Post 8870514)

to all the guys running Mugen how do you get the werks pipes to fit?

I run a 6T and have melted the side of my body because the pipe is pushed up into it due to the wide bend of the header.

I am running the 2057 does the 2013 have a better fitting header?

I was going to run my mugen header but its a 3 spring coupler and the werks pipes are 4 spring.

Originally Posted by J_Man (Post 8870514)

to all the guys running Mugen how do you get the werks pipes to fit?

I run a 6T and have melted the side of my body because the pipe is pushed up into it due to the wide bend of the header.

I am running the 2057 does the 2013 have a better fitting header?

I was going to run my mugen header but its a 3 spring coupler and the werks pipes are 4 spring.

Originally Posted by J_Man (Post 8870514)

to all the guys running Mugen how do you get the werks pipes to fit?

I run a 6T and have melted the side of my body because the pipe is pushed up into it due to the wide bend of the header.

I am running the 2057 does the 2013 have a better fitting header?

I was going to run my mugen header but its a 3 spring coupler and the werks pipes are 4 spring.

Originally Posted by 071crazy (Post 8870798)

Some of us took the mugen jx header and drilled it for a 4-spring setup. Pretty dialed.