On page 1 Ron explains how to break in this engine and tune it at the same time. I think 135 is way to cold. You want the temps up around 200 when breaking in an engine no matter what brand it is. It's real hard on the rod when you don't get the temps up. I'm sure someone else will agree with me on this.

That's affirmative. I use a heat gun/heater atleast till the metal pinch is gone.

Oh yeah I forgot to mention that. Always preheat your engine to about 200 before starting. That's when the engine is new and your breaking it in. It doesn't hurt to always preheat your engine even after break in. It will make your rod last much longer.

+1.

Use something to insulate the head during breakin. This is extremely important with cold ambient temps. It is possible to run the engine slightly rich and at 200 during the process, but insulation is necessary to make it happen during the winter.

WERKS
 

My WERKS B5 powered beast. :nod:

http://i1217.photobucket.com/albums/...n/100_0359.jpg

Thanks Ron for all the help!

Will do that for sure will try it today,thanks for all the imput..:)

I am having what I would consider a small amount of trouble. I have a b5 2057 combo in my D8 and I for the life of me can not get more than 6 minutes runtime. The motor it good and broken in. Its running amazing but only temping around 170-180. I have tried leaning it out a little bit more but if i lean it more it just sounds to lean to me. like the top wants to pop off? I have set all my endpoints tried changing up my driving style.:confused::confused:

Can someone better explain this step in the break-in? Doesn't seem clear to me.

"Basically what I'm doing with this system is slowly reducing the amount of lubricant being pumped through the engine while at the same time slowly increasing the amount of load that is being put on the engine. This I keep on repeating until I get to approximately the point that I'm pulling the trigger far enough that I know the low speed needle is being pulled out of the spray bar (remember we checked this initially while we had the air filter off) at which point your air gap (the amount the slide is help open by the idle stop screw) will have been reduced to aprox. 1-1.5mm."

Your way to rich. If your tuning by temp then you need to be more around the 220-240 range. They are gonna sound like that when they are tuned right and hitting the top rpm's. :nod:

At the point that the spray bar comes out you are tuning from you high speed needle while the spray bar is still in you are tuning from the low speed. at least thats how i understand it.

If your referring to the red portion you highlighted, pop your air filter off and look down your carb throat. As you start to apply throttle and your carb slide begins to open you will see your low speed needle across your carb throat, when you see the tip of this needle essentially that is where your high speed needle takes over metering the fuel. Basically during Ron's break in you have a large air gap to maintain a high idle as your pouring fuel in, without that obviously the motor would not run due to being so rich. This point in the process is where you've begun to lean the bottom a couple hrs which will raise the idle and then you back the idle down a couple hours, you continue this process all the way down to where you have a 1mm idle gap and then it's just a matter of the engine telling you what it needs. Hope that helps as I wasn't sure what exactly you were looking for...

Your needle ballance is off. I'm going to guess that you are running a lean bottom and a rich top so if you lean the HS any more thnengine just falls on its face. Just set the HS and LS to flush, fire up the engine blipping the throttle let the engine come back to idle and adjust the speed using the idle stop screw until it is smooth and steady. Form this point put the car on the track and adjust the HS to give you the top that you need, this will change the idle speed. Do not touch the idle stop screw but rather richen the LS to bring the idle down. Just follow the above and you should be ok.

Ron

The guys are correct. Just pop the airfilter off and turn on your radio and pull the trigger while looking down the throat of the carb and you will see what I mean. Once yoet tomthe point that the LS needle comes completely out of the spray bar the LS needle is no longer in play (it is no longer affecting fuel delivery). So from that point on you want tonstart adjusting the HS needle. Hope this helps clarify things!

The bottoms not to lean, the motor never fell on its face the motor has tons of power and had more when I leaned it it just sounded like it was reving so high it was making me nervous. Maybe its supposed to rev out like that. Even when I leaned it, it was still making good smoke. Ill give it another go and make a few laps and see where Im at.

Then you should try to be a little bit clearer with your posts. Your post starts with your having some trouble, that you cant get the temps over 170-180 degrees, can't get more than 6-7 minutes of run time and when you lean the engine it sounds "like the top wants to pop off?" which I take means that it wants to fall on it's face but that is not really a clear description and that you are confused. So... if there is nothing wrong with your engine, why are you saying that you are having trouble? If the motor runs fine, is blowing smoke everywhere and seems to be tuned properly just lean the engine a bit more to give you the top end and run time that you are looking for and be done with it lol!