hey ive done that method too, and to be honest i havnt noticed a differance either...its just like any other motor, everyone has there ways good or bad right or wrong...but i think engine life greatly relies on how the motor is treated throughtout its lifespan that will eventually determind the life of it...i my opinion and i think the biggest mistake you could make in breaking in a new motor is breaking it in too cold which will cause the piston to scrap away the sleeve harder and faster and put more stress on the rod and crank...i said as long as you idle a tank or so fat while keeping it at 200 to flush the motor out and then not letting the motor see below 180-200 or so and your good to go...

I heat cycle and always preheat before starting everywhere every time that's just what I do.If any doubts (and there's plenty of different opinions out there to make a person second guess their methods)Follow Ron's break in method.

I was at Harbor Freight a bit ago and should have grabbed a heat gun while I was there. Something else I've never done is preheat the engines; what is the logic behind this (not questioning or starting an argument, just curious)?

It lets the internals loosen up before you start it. When starting a cold engine, when the engine turns over its slamming the piston into the sleeve and puts a lot of stress on it. If you were to warm it up prior to starting it, it will be easier on it. I have heated up all of my engines before every run no matter how many gallons it has on it also if I'm just running the fuel out of the engine. And it makes the warm-up before qualifiers or mains easier to see if the engine needs the needles tweaked on at all.

Instead of a heatgun, I recommend the Competition Heat Engine Warmers - they cost about the same as a decent heat gun and are far more convenient. Put it on your engine and in 10 minutes your motor is 160ºF+ :nod:

Are tolerances that much tighter when everything is cold?

It' probably not going to save the engine 3 gallons but I like doing it just because there isn't any stress on the internals. Along with the engine being up to temp and easier (quicker) to tune during warm up

Hey Guys...
guess there is some discussion on the video..lol
anyway the chops busting is fine:D I did not however get it all the way finished and plan to this weekend at the track, I got the first parts done at my house but didnt make it to the track to finish the runs on it. I fly to Iowa at 6am then fly back saturday and arrive at 1005 am then will go home grab my stuff and head to the track to finish it for you all. sorry for the delay.
and on a side note, keep in mind I am doing this for some of the new guys or veteran guys who get lost from time to time, I am not however doing this for me as I have broke in many many many engines with Rons method. I am jsut trying to help a little for the people that find it easier to watch it done rather than read it. sooooooooo, keep up the bustin chops!!!!:D I really dont care:D
now let me go finish packing I have to get up at 3am:batman:

LOL no way in heck would I pay $100 for a heat gun! Got the $13 special from Harbor Freight and it has worked great for a year.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-wa...112-96289.html

:lol::lol:

I thought heat guns were a lot more than $13 :sneaky::sneaky: My bad.

setting idle gap
 

So just so I can put this question to bed, when seeting the idle gap(.7mm) do you do it with the venturi in or out of the carb; does it really matter?

Sounds like you have been very busy Mo, Im sure people will or should understand and when its done you will post it . Thanks for taking the time to make the video. ;)

The carb insert didnt have any noticeable affect on the idle of my other engines, I suspect this will be the case for this engine as well.

didn't or did?

Pre-heating the engine allows the Sleeve to expand, and keeps the piston from slamming into it. It may not add 3 gallons to the life of the engine, but it can be the difference in a new rod after break-in on many engines..