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Originally Posted by marshon50
(Post 8116294)
Ron I guess we were typing at the same time, LOL! I defer to Mr. Werks' response.....:D
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also a 6mm will net better times on most tracks and loose runtime on others...also the tuning window gets smaller with a smaller insert. I have ran a 6 in my B6 with no issues though. just some food for thought
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Ok, thanks to both of you guys. That helps a lot. I'm still new to some stuff but I'm learning more all the time.
She doesn't really get to snappy on her Truggy, but her Buggy she is still learning to control. She loves her Truggy oi go figure. LOL!! Yeah the B6 will more than likely go in her Buggy. But if need be it will still work in Truggy right? I might look at getting one of the Werks Clutch set ups if I can. I must have looked at the wrong place on A-Main cause I couldn't see the restrictors. I was in a hurry when I looked to. LOL!! She is starting to get better everytime we race. Shoot I may have to step down soon and focus solely on her. LOL!! But she does like the Werks motors to. I have a Werks 2013 on her truggy but the only other pipes I have exta now are a JP-3, RE10, and a Dy 053. Would any of those be ok for the B6? I would to get another Werks pipe for it sometime thow. If u can find a good deal on one later. I'm always looking. |
Originally Posted by blktransam
(Post 8116654)
also a 6mm will net better times on most tracks and loose runtime on others...also the tuning window gets smaller with a smaller insert. I have ran a 6 in my B6 with no issues though. just some food for thought
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also more goes into runtime then people think
plug,fuel,tune,pipe,clutch,venturi,tires,air, ALOT of things have to work in "sync" to get the perfect power/runtime any other questions just ASK :) |
Originally Posted by blktransam
(Post 8117154)
Originally Posted by blktransam
(Post 8117160)
also more goes into runtime then people think
plug,fuel,tune,pipe,clutch,venturi,tires,air, ALOT of things have to work in "sync" to get the perfect power/runtime any other questions just ASK :) |
Help Please!!
Well Guy's I really f....d up! I was replacing my clutch bell bearings In my B5 today & when tightening down the screw to hold the bell on, The head of the screw broke off! :cry: I'm clueless on how to remove it from the crank?
TIA Guys |
Your best bet is prolly a new crank. I would make sure to use a 12.9 grade screw to hold the clutch bell on next time...
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Originally Posted by Slimsh8t
(Post 8117425)
Well Guy's I really f....d up! I was replacing my clutch bell bearings In my B5 today & when tightening down the screw to hold the bell on, The head of the screw broke off! :cry: I'm clueless on how to remove it from the crank?
TIA Guys |
Originally Posted by mrbusta
(Post 8117515)
easy out screw kit should get it
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Originally Posted by Slimsh8t
(Post 8117679)
Yeah just not sure if they make one small enough. I will be checking out Ace Hardware tomorrow.
1 thing i would try is heating up the crank and poking at the screw with w/e you got, the heat should melt out the loctite and allow you to slowly back out the screw. |
...why do people have to "hulk" everything down lol...their should be NO pressure on the screw so u should be able to "un thread" it hopefully :)
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Help!
Originally Posted by mrbusta
(Post 8117515)
easy out screw kit should get it
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Kinda weird the head just.. broke off? I always snug and then alittle more with alittle loctite. I always use a heat gun when removing any screws that require loctite to stay in.
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