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Is anyone planning on attending the Wire grass race i will be there running Pro truggy.
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Originally Posted by 02maxima18
(Post 7660580)
Am I missing something? I'm taking a part a B5 and normally with all of the OS, Ninja, Reedy etc once I get the sleeve out, backplate cover, tip the engine, and use my pinky and slide the con rod off the crank and out comes the piston/rod assembly, well with the B5 not that easy, still can't find how to take this apart without removing the piston pin and clip which still proly wouldn't be able to remove the pin. It's got maybe 1mm to go but won't come off. I've opened taken apart rebuilt plenty of engines, it's like a side hobby to the hobby haha. Any help would be appretiated, the piston just hits the case and won't go over any further. The engine is brand new, I'm just doing some parts swapping.
Andy Regards, Ron |
Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 7660686)
Hi Andy, your not missing anything. We have some really precise tolerances on our crank pin/rod bushing fit which is what you are seeing. When new the rods are a lot easier to get on than they are to get off lol! My recommendation is that unless you absolutely have to take off the rod on a new engine for some reason, don't. It's not worth risking potentially damaging the lower rod bushing by getting it cocked on the crank pin or something as a result of trying to take an engine apart for curiosity's sake.
Regards, Ron |
Are O'Donnell plugs ok spares for these engines or do I need to order something else. I have a few spare werks plugs but from previous dealings have a ton of OD's
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Yeah i run both in mine OD and werks.
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how does the os p3 do in these motors. I ordered 2 of them with my b5 today. Figured i can find those locally as well. The od97t are local too. The werks 5 i haven't seen around here.
OS p3 is good for this motor or no? I'm in louisiana so its hot and run byrons gen2 30% nitro/11% oil. Thanks. |
The od97 runs good but i dont now about the p3 never tried one.
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Also when running the losi blue aluminum flywheel do i need to run the spacers that comes with the collet parts or just use the losi collet and no spacers? My losi 454 has no spaces just the collet.
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Just the collet.
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Originally Posted by bacchus
(Post 7661324)
how does the os p3 do in these motors. I ordered 2 of them with my b5 today. Figured i can find those locally as well. The od97t are local too. The werks 5 i haven't seen around here.
OS p3 is good for this motor or no? I'm in louisiana so its hot and run byrons gen2 30% nitro/11% oil. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by bacchus
(Post 7661351)
Also when running the losi blue aluminum flywheel do i need to run the spacers that comes with the collet parts or just use the losi collet and no spacers? My losi 454 has no spaces just the collet.
Here is a pic without the washer behind the collet http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/DSCF4567.jpg With the washer behind the collet it moves the flywheel and bell out to the center of the teeth. |
Originally Posted by bacchus
(Post 7661351)
Also when running the losi blue aluminum flywheel do i need to run the spacers that comes with the collet parts or just use the losi collet and no spacers? My losi 454 has no spaces just the collet.
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Thanks. I'll try it both ways and see what gets me closest to how the losi 454 lines up. I haven't had any clutch, mesh, or bearing issues with its alignment so i'll try and match that. Do folks use loctite on the nut that holds the flywheel on the crank? I never have with the 454 but just wanna be sure.
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Originally Posted by bacchus
(Post 7661716)
Thanks. I'll try it both ways and see what gets me closest to how the losi 454 lines up. I haven't had any clutch, mesh, or bearing issues with its alignment so i'll try and match that. Do folks use loctite on the nut that holds the flywheel on the crank? I never have with the 454 but just wanna be sure.
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Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 7660686)
Hi Andy, your not missing anything. We have some really precise tolerances on our crank pin/rod bushing fit which is what you are seeing. When new the rods are a lot easier to get on than they are to get off lol! My recommendation is that unless you absolutely have to take off the rod on a new engine for some reason, don't. It's not worth risking potentially damaging the lower rod bushing by getting it cocked on the crank pin or something as a result of trying to take an engine apart for curiosity's sake.
Regards, Ron Andy |
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