R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Offroad Nitro Engine Forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum-157/)
-   -   The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/319017-new-werks-b5-21-racing-engine.html)

DPowers 07-12-2010 01:29 PM

Is anyone planning on attending the Wire grass race i will be there running Pro truggy.

Werks 07-12-2010 01:31 PM


Originally Posted by 02maxima18 (Post 7660580)
Am I missing something? I'm taking a part a B5 and normally with all of the OS, Ninja, Reedy etc once I get the sleeve out, backplate cover, tip the engine, and use my pinky and slide the con rod off the crank and out comes the piston/rod assembly, well with the B5 not that easy, still can't find how to take this apart without removing the piston pin and clip which still proly wouldn't be able to remove the pin. It's got maybe 1mm to go but won't come off. I've opened taken apart rebuilt plenty of engines, it's like a side hobby to the hobby haha. Any help would be appretiated, the piston just hits the case and won't go over any further. The engine is brand new, I'm just doing some parts swapping.

Andy

Hi Andy, your not missing anything. We have some really precise tolerances on our crank pin/rod bushing fit which is what you are seeing. When new the rods are a lot easier to get on than they are to get off lol! My recommendation is that unless you absolutely have to take off the rod on a new engine for some reason, don't. It's not worth risking potentially damaging the lower rod bushing by getting it cocked on the crank pin or something as a result of trying to take an engine apart for curiosity's sake.

Regards,

Ron

Razathorn 07-12-2010 01:50 PM


Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7660686)
Hi Andy, your not missing anything. We have some really precise tolerances on our crank pin/rod bushing fit which is what you are seeing. When new the rods are a lot easier to get on than they are to get off lol! My recommendation is that unless you absolutely have to take off the rod on a new engine for some reason, don't. It's not worth risking potentially damaging the lower rod bushing by getting it cocked on the crank pin or something as a result of trying to take an engine apart for curiosity's sake.

Regards,

Ron

I encountered the same thing -- Comes out easy after it's been run a while. Good to know I was right to not try and force it as I like to tear down an engine to inspect the inside when new just in case.

willbe 07-12-2010 03:54 PM

Are O'Donnell plugs ok spares for these engines or do I need to order something else. I have a few spare werks plugs but from previous dealings have a ton of OD's

DPowers 07-12-2010 03:57 PM

Yeah i run both in mine OD and werks.

bacchus 07-12-2010 04:12 PM

how does the os p3 do in these motors. I ordered 2 of them with my b5 today. Figured i can find those locally as well. The od97t are local too. The werks 5 i haven't seen around here.

OS p3 is good for this motor or no? I'm in louisiana so its hot and run byrons gen2 30% nitro/11% oil. Thanks.

DPowers 07-12-2010 04:18 PM

The od97 runs good but i dont now about the p3 never tried one.

bacchus 07-12-2010 04:18 PM

Also when running the losi blue aluminum flywheel do i need to run the spacers that comes with the collet parts or just use the losi collet and no spacers? My losi 454 has no spaces just the collet.

jwcobra03 07-12-2010 04:30 PM

Just the collet.

CJ Weaver 07-12-2010 05:00 PM


Originally Posted by bacchus (Post 7661324)
how does the os p3 do in these motors. I ordered 2 of them with my b5 today. Figured i can find those locally as well. The od97t are local too. The werks 5 i haven't seen around here.

OS p3 is good for this motor or no? I'm in louisiana so its hot and run byrons gen2 30% nitro/11% oil. Thanks.

The O.S. P3 is pretty much equivalent to the Werks R5 which is what most of us are running. The R5 has a higher platinum content in the coil which makes it more durable than the P3. The P3 should work (haven't tried it though), but I recommend the Werks R5.

sluggo_sx8 07-12-2010 05:40 PM


Originally Posted by bacchus (Post 7661351)
Also when running the losi blue aluminum flywheel do i need to run the spacers that comes with the collet parts or just use the losi collet and no spacers? My losi 454 has no spaces just the collet.

I had to install the washer (spacer) behind the collet with my b5. If I didn't the bell was running on the very end of the teeth and would have put alot of load on the small bell bearing.

Here is a pic without the washer behind the collet
http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...x/DSCF4567.jpg

With the washer behind the collet it moves the flywheel and bell out to the center of the teeth.

hdcruzer 07-12-2010 05:43 PM


Originally Posted by bacchus (Post 7661351)
Also when running the losi blue aluminum flywheel do i need to run the spacers that comes with the collet parts or just use the losi collet and no spacers? My losi 454 has no spaces just the collet.

You can run it either way. Ive used the spacers and I havnt. if you use a spacer it just centers the clutch bell to the center diff spur gear a little nicer.:)

bacchus 07-12-2010 05:55 PM

Thanks. I'll try it both ways and see what gets me closest to how the losi 454 lines up. I haven't had any clutch, mesh, or bearing issues with its alignment so i'll try and match that. Do folks use loctite on the nut that holds the flywheel on the crank? I never have with the 454 but just wanna be sure.

sluggo_sx8 07-12-2010 07:29 PM


Originally Posted by bacchus (Post 7661716)
Thanks. I'll try it both ways and see what gets me closest to how the losi 454 lines up. I haven't had any clutch, mesh, or bearing issues with its alignment so i'll try and match that. Do folks use loctite on the nut that holds the flywheel on the crank? I never have with the 454 but just wanna be sure.

I have never used loctite on that bolt. It always seems to be hard to remove without it.

02maxima18 07-12-2010 07:49 PM


Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7660686)
Hi Andy, your not missing anything. We have some really precise tolerances on our crank pin/rod bushing fit which is what you are seeing. When new the rods are a lot easier to get on than they are to get off lol! My recommendation is that unless you absolutely have to take off the rod on a new engine for some reason, don't. It's not worth risking potentially damaging the lower rod bushing by getting it cocked on the crank pin or something as a result of trying to take an engine apart for curiosity's sake.

Regards,

Ron

Ok cool thanks Ron, ya I'll leave it alone, the sleeve cuts are great and everything is very clean, deff a $300+ engine for $200.

Andy


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:25 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.