Looks like it's just a tuning video to me. I don't speak much spanish, and the words I do know are pretty foul, so it doesn't translate well.

Ok. Well. I would not recommend you using their method, for several reasons which I will explain.

For me there are several things wrong with the video.

-They are starting the engine with no pre-heat. I always pre-heat using a Competition heat, and a new engine always fires on the first go for me using this pre-heating process, every time. This guy seemed to have a bit of an issue with getting it fired up.

-He's blowing into the pressure line. You can do that if you're that way inclined (that you like to make things difficult), but I like pinching the pressureline and then opening and closing the fuel tank lid about 5 times. This will facilitate pumping fuel up to the engine, with absolutely no hassle. (Ryan Lutz instructional video tip)

-He removes the plug and cranks the engine round for no apparent reason.
What would ever be the point of cranking a cold engine round, with no plug in it? I can only assume he is trying to get the engine lubricated, but for the health of the engine I'd rather just blob some oil in there before fitting it in the car! I always disassemble engines before breaking them in anyway, to make sure there are no metal shavings in there, and about 50% of the time there will be tiny metal shavings in there which it is a good idea to remove! When you have an engine dismantled, you can add oil to lubricate it real well when re-assembling, and that way the engine is well oiled up before you go to perform the first ever start of the engine. I usually add oil to front bearing, fit crankshaft, add oil to rear bearing, rotate crankshaft to distribute oil coating, add oil to crank pin, drop some oil in the piston pin area, coat piston and sleeve with oil, then reassemble, this means the engine will be well lubricated and will fire on first go, when you pre-heat before break-in.

-The guy lets the engine sit around idling on the box, no attempt to check temperature, revs it randomly.
Now this is what is important to understand: Metals expand at different rates according to the temperature! When you are breaking in an engine you are essentially adapting the sealing surfaces to fit eachother at OPERATING TEMPERATURE. If you perform the break-in at an excessively low temperature, you will be adapting the sealing surfaces to fit eachother at 50% of the operating temperature. This means that at operating temperature the sealing surfaces will in fact be very different in terms of size, and this may shorten your engine's lifespan significantly.

-Idling on the box and running at low temp is "the cardinal sin", read the break in bible on this forum. It explains this very well. You kill the rod, the engine doesn't reach operating temperature, etc.

Basicly, for me, everything is wrong about this video. It's just way wrong.
It's an InfoRC video, I have a lot of respect for Miguel Zambrana, who is the InfoRC guy, he does a wonderful job of promoting radiocontrol. But this person who he is filming, has done this instructional video all wrong.

IMHO people really must get the engine up to 190-200F during the major part of the break-in procedure, so that the engine is not too cold, this will adapt the sealing surfaces to eachother at a better temperature, more closely resembling operating temperature, this also helps the rod, and then they really should heat-cycle as this will get your engine broken in much faster, again helping you save the rod.

I speak spanish very well. The engine is brand New. This guy blow the pressure line, took out the glow plug to see it working ok with the igniter, I don't know why he pressed the starter box without the glow plug, according to him was for priming. He closed 1/2 turn the HSN and 1/4 the LSN, then started without heating the engine, closed again 1/4 HSN and opened the idling screw, accelerated many times and then he said the engine was to rich on the bottom because was revving high for ten seconds then slowing down and he closed another 1/4 turn the LSN and according to him the engine was ready for the track. At that time I stopped seeing, I couldn't stand it. That's the most stupid video I've ever saw in RC.

It would be a pretty good video if they titled it "How not to break in your nitro engine" :D

Yeah, I wondered what you guys would think of the video, so I decided to post it. The channel has some other videos like that one and I'm just clueless why they would. Everything in that video made no sense. I'm disappointed it's even on you tube. Any beginner who watches that video and tries to replicate it will certainly ruin their engine.

I totally agree!

+1

Shim Or Not To Shim?
 

My apologies Monty,:blush: but I can't figure out how this RCTech 'Search' function works!:weird: I am sure you have mentioned somewhere in this Off-road Nitro Engine Forum of yours, the advantages/disadvantages of the button/sleeve 'Shims' and/or how many should be used is dependent on the Nitro % used in the fuel.
But now that we are nearing the end of 2015, and .21 engine technology has somewhat advanced, I was wondering what your current views are about the addition or removal of these shims are. I vaguely recall you once saying many, many moons ago, "Remove them!" but I think you may have been pulling someone's leg at the time.;):sneaky:


.

Yeah just take them suckers out, you don't need no stinkin' shims! :D

I'm sure Monty or one of the gurus can give a more detailed answer, but for the most part people just run the stock .8mm shimming with 25-30% nitro. Once the engine has had some gallons put through it you can take some shims out to gain a little compression and performance back. Some folks even take a shim out as soon as it's broken in and run .7mm... which would require taking the copper .2mm shim out and putting a .10mm back in.

Many thanks for your input bash bros much appreciated.:nod:

Just so I don't add too many shims, does your figure of .8mm INCLUDE
the .3 STEP that is built into the button head, like the photo?

:confused:This is the bit I can't get my head around.('scuse the pun):weird:
.

Nope, there should be three separate shims under the button. Two alum .3mm and a .2mm copper shim... part #s 03005 and 03003 respectively.

What are the running symptoms of a glow plug that is too hot or too cold? How do you read a glow plug to determine where your tune is?

Running too hot of a plug in too hot of weather will result in quick burnout of plug ,loss of overall power/performance, will be easy to tune but........

Too cold of a plug in too cold of weather will leave you with very narrow tuning window , unstable idle and flameouts galore


Reading plug......you should have a shine on glow plug coils but not necessarily the body of the plug

Coils should still be coiled in a circle ,not pushed to one side or pulled out or pushed in

Pitted or dull plug is usually caused by over lean running ,change plug and reset needles to a setting you know is rich for your particular engine
If your engine is still running with a consistent tune whether it be perfect or not but has changed dramatically very suddenly .....CHANGE YOUR PLUG.

Its not a marathon race to see who can get the longest lasting plug ,let me put it this way ....one broken filament from a plug youve used too long goes through the engine. .....engines done usually


Hope this helps


Havent been on the forums much as of late ,sorry guys

Thanks for the help. How often do you change your plugs, just as a preventive safety measure?

I dont use a c5tgc any longer than a quart usually

C6tgc about 1/2 gallon

Plugs will last longer if you keep engine at a conservative tune though

Just check plug about every 4-5 tanks when engine is tuned close to "kill" mode

:nod: On the money right there. I always keep a spare new plug or 2 in my bag. Keeping up on the plug is best.

Cant wait to have some fun racing rc cars at the dirt nitro challenge !!!