Saweeeeeet Billy :nod:

Thanks , coulda done a bit better but it was fun , most fun was messin with you of course :D

RC CARS!

ARE COOL!

Hey Houston nice meating you this weekend at Silver State, and thanks for your help. Nice run in truggy, and I told you the silver square armours would make it 30 minutes!! :nod: Hope to see you at other races.

Chad

Hello,

I'm having some serious issues with my main engine (XZB Speed) and back up (Ninja B01a) Everytime I go up to half throttle to full, my xzb speed flames out. It's also quite difficult to start it up as well. I've replaced the glow plug and took apart the engine but everything looks fine. The problem with my b01a is that the space between the sleeve and the inner head is leaking out fuel. Everything is very tight and there is a gasket between the sleeve and the inner head. Please help. Also, I suspect one of the reasons is the fuel I'm currently using. Because in Vancouver, Nitro is not as big as electric, my local hobby store only supplies traxxas 33% and I think they are crap but I have to use it. I just ordered some o'donnell 30% but I don't know if that'll fix the problem for my xzb speed.

BTW here are my needle settings

The xzb speed is HSN: 1 1/2 clockwise from flush LSN:2 counter clock from flush MSN: flush

Ninja B01a is HSN:1 clockwise from flush LSN: 1 1/2 counter clock from flush MSN: Flush

Thanks

Do you have clear fuel line? Check your fuel line make sure there are no cuts in it or bubbles in it when you are running. My OS Speed was doing that two weekends ago, and I noticed a few bubbles in my fuel line, upon further inspection I found a small cut in my fuel line. If it is both engines I assume it is on the same car this could explain some of it. Also needle settings don't mean anything really, go back to flush and see if it dies at full throttle flush. Flush is the stock setting and if you are there it should not die, it won't scream but it shouldn't die, then look at the tuning bible on the forum and start with your hsn then adjust your lsn, but make sure your idle gap is not too wide. If I was a betting man I think there is a leak in your fuel line or you are just waaay out of tune

Sadly I don't have a clear fuel line so I'll just replace it and the exhaust line as well. I report back to see if it fixed the problem.

Still waiting on a engine recommendation!

buggy go with X3L 021 header and 2096 pipe if you want more power get a X5L or even the X7. If you are putting it in a truggy get the X7 or even try the FM versions. I just got my X3LFM and running the 021 with 2096 pipe and I love it. Still trying to talk the wife into a X7FM maybe I will get lucky on my birthday :D

There are many good engines out there but all engines can have problems and what is an expensive engine with no customer support worth??? I had tons of trouble with an Orion Cody King WC engine and it wasn't cheap from the start then when it never ran right and NO customer support it was just plain awful. I am changing brands to Fusion and so far I love it, plus Monty has the best customer support in my view of anyone in the RC industry. I will never buy another engine from anyone else unless Monty quits selling them

Thanks

:blush: awe shucks

I do my best guys
I race rc cars like you guys , i travel , i have a full time job a wife and two teenage girls , its hard to get all the engines out in what some consider a timely fashion (next day) :lol:

I do my best

Another place to get fusion x engines is from jim hottinger [email protected]

Monty quick question. I ordered new BUKU shoes and the crank case caps, after looking at the crank case caps and listening to the people talk about them, couldn't we just get some thin metal like the shims, have one cut out to the size of the front of an engine with the crank hole in it slap a little grease on it and button it up like the caps? I know that it wouldn't go around the case but it would work for ALL flywheels regardless of brand or lip and the grease is what makes the cap actually work, wouldn't it be basically the same principal? I know maybe not quite as good but still it would be much better and MUCH cheaper?? Maybe something you can look into and put on the market :D

if you don't have a lip on it the grease would sling out from behind the washer creating more of a mess.. the lip actually helps keep the dirt out and grease in

I don't think it would be a big mess as you don't put a ton of grease on it and if it was machined correctly it would be held against the block still giving the protection. The crank should be spinning not the washer (yes it will spin as the bearing spins but maybe not at the same rpm), you would probably want to check it after each race but the grease would hold it to the front of the engine I know it might still spin but as I said it might be something worth looking into, hell if you just put a thin layer of grease on the bearing before every race it would probably do the same thing but the thing that does bother me is that grease would attract dirt, but it would also lock it in instead of allowing it to pass through. Again just a thought:tire: