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Originally Posted by houston
(Post 8818139)
Thanks for your continued support Kijana!!! greatly appreciated :nod:
you are now the proud owner of an X7 Xtreme "houston tuned" !!! you should receive all the details and tracking info when they arrive and are ready to ship :tire: |
Its Huston tuned lol!!! :sneaky:
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Originally Posted by houston
(Post 8812731)
i have one new plus 21-4btt and one new plus 21-7 bonito xlb if anyone is interested just lmk
also have p5xlt's . plus 21-4c teams , plus 21-4T , p3xs , toro nero team , plus 21-7fms fusion X3 , fusion X28 , fusion X7's very soon :nod: just lmk what you want guys , special pricing for first X7's ordered standard pricing will be 340$ for Xtreme (ceramic front/rear bearings , silicone filled crank) and 300$ for standard edition , just so you know the Xtreme value you will get , the X7's all come with team pistons , 17011 front bearing , R7 rod , 24063 reverse (plus 4 carb) and plus 21-4c team style and 28028 oring supported turbo button !! its a great deal for a novarossi built engine fershur:nod: i want you guys to see how good these engines are !! are these Novarossi ceramic bearings or another?? |
Originally Posted by TommyBlazin
(Post 8819560)
are these Novarossi ceramic bearings or another??
Cost effective and high quality :nod: |
Hi Monty, I was at a race this winter where a rod slowly went out on my Plus 21-4C. Before it finally let go and I realized what was up, I had been turning the needles to keep the motor running. I've replaced the p/s/r, but I'm sure the carb is all wrong. Can you help me w/ the base carb settings, that would rock. Thanks in advance.
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What restrictor should I use when breaking in my engine? I'm getting ready to break in my p4c and I'm gonna do it my own little way, how would this sound houston this is my plan, Steel flywheel, first 2 tanks idle no wheels on, then 3-3min cycles on the ground rolling, maybe rolling laps op the track? then x2 7 minute cycles, then 2 10 minute cycles, after all that I'll do 2 warmup tanks 'Rich on top' then keep it rich on top for a gallon.
Also should I use a more lubricated fuel then nitrotane for the first gallon? |
Originally Posted by Matt Piva
(Post 8821031)
What restrictor should I use when breaking in my engine? I'm getting ready to break in my p4c and I'm gonna do it my own little way, how would this sound houston this is my plan, Steel flywheel, first 2 tanks idle no wheels on, then 3-3min cycles on the ground rolling, maybe rolling laps op the track? then x2 7 minute cycles, then 2 10 minute cycles, after all that I'll do 2 warmup tanks 'Rich on top' then keep it rich on top for a gallon.
Also should I use a more lubricated fuel then nitrotane for the first gallon? |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 8821699)
I wouldn't break your engine with nitrotane if I were you, if you do find some lube booster from byrons or similar. That method sounds all fine n dandy but the temps are the most important part ;) keep engine between 190°-210° for break in, head covered for idle time, uncovered when running car on the ground or track
A Big X2 on Not using Nitrotane for break in. :nod: |
Originally Posted by Integra
(Post 8821886)
A Big X2 on Not using Nitrotane for break in. :nod:
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Originally Posted by Integra
(Post 8821886)
A Big X2 on Not using Nitrotane for break in. :nod:
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Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 8821972)
I'll take HPI purple for Breakin !
Anything from at least 11% up to 18% oil is good for break in Do not use full synthetic fuels or any fuel under the oil contents listed above:nod: |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 8821992)
Holy lots of oil batman! :lol:
Anything from at least 11% up to 18% oil is good for break in Do not use full synthetic fuels or any fuel under the oil contents listed above:nod: As funny as it sounds, but that HPI purple has to be the sweetest fuel for breakin I have found...Its got lots of cheap oil, but its not super slippery and allows proper lapping of the piston to the sleeve in a timely fashion...I don't like fuels with to much of a high grade lubricant as they seem to lubricate too well and greatly prolong the breakin period..... |
Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 8822016)
As funny as it sounds, but that HPI purple has to be the sweetest fuel for breakin I have found...Its got lots of cheap oil, but its not super slippery and allows proper lapping of the piston to the sleeve in a timely fashion...I don't like fuels with to much of a high grade lubricant as they seem to lubricate too well and greatly prolong the breakin period.....
Which fuel exactly,i will see if I can find it Not that I am not happy with the way byrons race 3000 works for break in but always wanting to try stuff, you never know, you just might find the pot o gold! :lol: |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 8822054)
I can understand that, maybe I will try it
Which fuel exactly,i will see if I can find it Not that I am not happy with the way byrons race 3000 works for break in but always wanting to try stuff, you never know, you just might find the pot o gold! :lol: HPI Purple 30%..i think they only have 1 fuel.....We found it gave us the best lapping between the sleeve and piston...We found many of the race fuels were just too greasy and the pistons would never size to the sleeve in any reasonable amount of time...The older Picco's we ran were extremely tight and breaking in with something like OD 30% would result in a beat up rod and a engine that still jammed the starter box at 3 gallons...But with the HPI we could get a great fit much earlier, in less then half the time..then once we knocked the pinch down we switch to the race fuels......Thie method seemed to give us the best breakin with the least amount of stress on the internals...... However it sure grinds my gears having to go pay more for my breakin fuel then the high grade fuel we race with tho LOL |
Originally Posted by Maximo
(Post 8822163)
HPI Purple 30%..i think they only have 1 fuel.....We found it gave us the best lapping between the sleeve and piston...We found many of the race fuels were just too greasy and the pistons would never size to the sleeve in any reasonable amount of time...The older Picco's we ran were extremely tight and breaking in with something like OD 30% would result in a beat up rod and a engine that still jammed the starter box at 3 gallons...But with the HPI we could get a great fit much earlier, in less then half the time..then once we knocked the pinch down we switch to the race fuels......Thie method seemed to give us the best breakin with the least amount of stress on the internals...... However it sure grinds my gears having to go pay more for my breakin fuel then the high grade fuel we race with tho LOL
Byrons race 3000 has been great though :D |
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