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kdol8 02-15-2011 09:40 AM

What pipe is everyone running on the ABI 3 Port? I currently run the 2013 and it has a little to much bottom looking for something a little softer any suggestions.

transplantlife 02-15-2011 12:07 PM


Originally Posted by kdol8 (Post 8656797)
What pipe is everyone running on the ABI 3 Port? I currently run the 2013 and it has a little to much bottom looking for something a little softer any suggestions.

2058

pitpop 02-15-2011 06:17 PM

what he said ^^^^^^^^^^ :D

team316 02-15-2011 10:16 PM

Orion Alpha ABI 3 Port
 
I have my new engine :D:nod::nod: and I am setting up the clutch bell. How much back and forth play should the clutch bell have? The Mugen 6T kit has a bunch of shims but dosn't say how many or how much play there should be. :confused: Should there be a shim or two between the inside clutch bell bearing and the clutch retaining nut?:confused: In my simple brain the bearing should ride against a shim instead of the edge of the clutch retaining nut.
I am also looking for some more detailed instructions on properly sealing up the carb.
The only complaint I have after buying the NEW Team Orion ABI 3 port engine and a NEW Team Orion 2013 tuned pipe is not one sticker came with either item for my truck body.:cry::weird::cry::eek::o:flaming:
Thanks in advance.

pitpop 02-16-2011 08:52 AM


Originally Posted by team316 (Post 8660620)
I have my new engine :D:nod::nod: and I am setting up the clutch bell. How much back and forth play should the clutch bell have? The Mugen 6T kit has a bunch of shims but dosn't say how many or how much play there should be. :confused: Should there be a shim or two between the inside clutch bell bearing and the clutch retaining nut?:confused: In my simple brain the bearing should ride against a shim instead of the edge of the clutch retaining nut.
I am also looking for some more detailed instructions on properly sealing up the carb.
The only complaint I have after buying the NEW Team Orion ABI 3 port engine and a NEW Team Orion 2013 tuned pipe is not one sticker came with either item for my truck body.:cry::weird::cry::eek::o:flaming:
Thanks in advance.

Just the tiniest click of play should exist on the clutch bell. Basically the smallest amount of play you can get, while still having any play at all, does that make sense? :lol: You are correct, the bearing should run on a shim on both sides, not against the nut. No stickers? Where do you race? Hopefully you can get some stickers at the track. There should be a sticker sheet in the engine box, no?

Take your time sealing the carb. Thick grease on all the o-rings, and a small zip tie around the dust boot. If you move the bango fitting, you should use sealant on the washers before you tighten it back up.

transplantlife 02-16-2011 11:44 AM

pitpop~ what engines are you guys running in truggy. i was looking at the .24 and the 7 port but dunno.

Thanks,

Andrew

pitpop 02-17-2011 10:03 AM


Originally Posted by transplantlife (Post 8662966)
pitpop~ what engines are you guys running in truggy. i was looking at the .24 and the 7 port but dunno.

Thanks,

Andrew

Honestly, I would run the 7 port. Just as much power and much better on fuel than the 24. The 7 port is race bred and the 24 is really just out there for the guys that want a big number on the head. :D

trickedout 02-17-2011 05:28 PM

any news updates on when the discovery combo will be in stock??

team316 02-17-2011 08:28 PM


Originally Posted by pitpop (Post 8662232)
Just the tiniest click of play should exist on the clutch bell. Basically the smallest amount of play you can get, while still having any play at all, does that make sense? :lol: You are correct, the bearing should run on a shim on both sides, not against the nut. No stickers? Where do you race? Hopefully you can get some stickers at the track. There should be a sticker sheet in the engine box, no?

Take your time sealing the carb. Thick grease on all the o-rings, and a small zip tie around the dust boot. If you move the bango fitting, you should use sealant on the washers before you tighten it back up.

Thanks Pitpop. Your help has been indispensable! :nod: I did move and seal up the washers. Should I pull the different needles and grease the o-rings on them too or no?
BTW, I tore the boxes apart looking for stickers and nope, no stickers. :(
All in all, Orion has a great looking product and you represent them well! Very pleased with my purchase and I haven't even fired it up yet! I cant wait to tear up the local track! :tire::tire::tire::tire::D

kdol8 02-18-2011 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by trickedout (Post 8670179)
any news updates on when the discovery combo will be in stock??

My LHS called me and said they are available

pitpop 02-18-2011 01:49 PM


Originally Posted by team316 (Post 8671135)
Thanks Pitpop. Your help has been indispensable! :nod: I did move and seal up the washers. Should I pull the different needles and grease the o-rings on them too or no?
BTW, I tore the boxes apart looking for stickers and nope, no stickers. :(
All in all, Orion has a great looking product and you represent them well! Very pleased with my purchase and I haven't even fired it up yet! I cant wait to tear up the local track! :tire::tire::tire::tire::D

Thanks for the nice comments :smile: yes, you can carefully take out the needles and grease the outer o-ring

debo179 02-18-2011 03:33 PM

what do you seal the fuel inlet washers with?

pitpop 02-18-2011 09:22 PM


Originally Posted by debo179 (Post 8674520)
what do you seal the fuel inlet washers with?

I use permatex form-a-gasket, being VERY careful not to get any on the bango fitting itself when putting the washers on. If you get any goop in the holes on the bango, it's not good. Some guys use black silicone adhesive, which is also made by permatex. Either of those work. I like the form-a-gasket because it doesn't harden. If you want to clean it off it's pretty easy.

Mugen racer123 02-19-2011 04:06 PM

i just broke in a new MTE today, I ran it on the track for about 4 tanks and 5 brakein tanks. I got the temps at 230 at the most. Was just wondering if i still need to pre heat it before i run it or no?
Thanks

trickedout 02-19-2011 04:49 PM


Originally Posted by Mugen racer123 (Post 8678688)
i just broke in a new MTE today, I ran it on the track for about 4 tanks and 5 brakein tanks. I got the temps at 230 at the most. Was just wondering if i still need to pre heat it before i run it or no?
Thanks

Pre-heating is never a bad thing as it will help get your tune quicker and less strain on the rod..Me personally i like to pre heat my motors at least for the first gallon, although i dont think its always needed...If you cant turn the flywheel over by hand then i strongly suggest you preheat it until you can...


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