I'm with you that is very strange that it lost all the pinch just after a quart.....
Seems like something went wrong during the break in but i'm not an engine "guru" and i don't want give wrong info or advice, hope some expert can shade some light on it.

Bye
WWD
:)

I had problems with my Cody King engine, where it would run great then just die like you stopped it at the flywheel. Turns out I think it was the pipe as the 2058 when it would die you could hear a boiling sound, changed the pipe and it seemed to run great but still died but not as bad, checked my fuel line when it was running, there were air bubbles in it, someone on the Losi forum said to blow in the fuel line to get all bubbles out and NOT to run it out of fuel, said he had the same problem chasing a tune, and the other help stated it might be the pipe boiling, check both things this might help. My Cody king and my 7 port CRF both lost pinch really quickly and I thought that might be a problem without pinch it is easy to stop the engine and I thought maybe the chassis was slapping hard on landings or rocks kicking up hitting it but in the end I think it is with the fuel delivery, check for air bubbles, and when running you can check with a spray for leaks, I would use wd-40 if you have a leak it should studder, dont use either or a cleaner as it would rev instead of studder. I am about to give up on my Cody king but I am going to try another new pipe and the blow trick and see if that helps, but with any tune issue check for air bubbles, i was revving and just as a big pocket of air went into the carb it just died like it was stopped, so I think this is the problem on most tunning issues. you might also try a fuel cooler, maybe it can help keep out the air? Also seal up and make sure your carb line doesn't move in and out of the tank and use a sealer to make sure there isn't a leak there, another way to make sure for no leaks is to cut a small piece of fuel line maybe 1/8 inch and use it as a clamp where it connects, it makes it really tight, I have done this on all connections in the past

Don't be alarmed.. If your engine is truelly fat fat fat. Keep leaning it out it'll eventually wake up..

Before you lean it to the moon however, Lets go over how LM based, (Orion, Werks, Sirio, etc) motors like to be tuned.

1. Set Idle gap to .5-.7mm, no more no less, about half the width of a credit card.
2. Tune LSN so that you just get the engine to idle smoothly..
3. Drive the car around to get engine warmed up.
4. Once warmed up tune HSN for performance. It is easy to go to far. If you find a point where you are no longer gaining power, you need to go back to the last point you did gain power. (In other words richen it back up the last movement you made.)
5. Check Idle, and adjust LSN if needed to keep a nice consistent Idle..


Do these things, and if you are still concerned come back and we'll try to help you further..

I had one go almost 2 gallons before it finally broke-in and I had one go in under 2 quarts.. It doesn't really matter when they break-in, or Lose Pinch, just notice when and tune accordingly..

Also so everyone is on the same page..


PINCH is METAL to METAL contact, and it is BAD!!!!!!!! It causes heat. You want Compression, but not pinch.. So please be careful how you use the word pinch, and understand its meaning..

I am going to try again to tune it, but when I say pinch I ment compression, when I spin the fly wheel it just does not feel like it has any, but compared to my jammin motor, this Orion has more compression. I am going to put all the needles back to flush and start by tunning with the tunning bible. I hope this motor is not already shot.

If you lost compression after 1 quart then there is a serious problem..

Once my 7 port was broken in it spun freely and still does. It has never felt like it had great compression yet it starts every time and runs like a scalded dog. The Nova engines have always been hard to turn over after break in but my Orions both the 7 port and the Cody King engine are pretty free. When I say they run like a scalded dog I mean it, I ran my 7 port last night against a fresh broke in Bonito 7 port, both in Losi 8ight b's and from idle to the turn I was 3 car lengths ahead, every time we were even I could pull away from him, his engine is much tighter than mine is but both are broken in properly. BTW my 7 port has about 4 gallon through it plus break in

I understand pinch and compression. My motor problems started after metal pinch was gone. I have plenty of compression. the pipes i have are the 2013 and 2058. They are both as new as the engines maybe a gallon a piece. i doubt the pipes are the problem. I appreciate your help.

The pipe that was bad on my Orion was in a kit with the engine and it was bad, something that I never thought to look at until someone mentioned it, but... with two pipes I doubt that is your problem if you have tried both pipes already

Anyone got any idea on this one?

It may be the rear bearing.....but before you order a rear bearing, try cleaning your clutch bell, and putting new clutch hardware and bearings in, and re-shim it.

I picked up a 2012 5 Port this week for my truggy and today was it's first race meet. I'm amazed at how much power this thing makes. You have to be careful with the trigger otherwise it will pick the front wheels up under power :lol:. Only has ~3litres on it so the runtime isn't there yet. Thoroughly chuffed with how it's running so far :smile:

One thing i have learnt, is that for a consistent trouble free tune & running it is advised to the seal the carb.

the new engines are really good.. we have been running our new 3 port since AMS, and through Nats, and the piston is still tight.. :smile: the cool thing about the new engines is the RPM is high even when the piston is still a little tight.. nice

I was noticing the post about air bubbles coming into the carburetor in the fuel line.. this is a bad condition. Not only will the tune be erratic, but the fuel also provides the lubrication and the cooling. Most of the cooling for your engine comes from the fuel. On top of that, if the engine is constantly dying from this, that means you are running it out of fuel over and over in an uncontrolled environment. IMO, it's bad to run your engines out of fuel on the track, especially when it's new, let me say that.. I will acknowledge that it's probably ok to run your engine out of fuel in a controlled environment, because there is plenty of oil left behind, but if your car is upside down, and you try to get the corner marshal's attention, it can hurt your engine... I've seen the piston fused to the cylinder wall in this way before.. any way, my .02 :D