Thanks, how to break in? the old school? "the break in bible"? Hudy break in bench?
and about the shims, if go to Byron 30% or meccamo 33%, need change something ot not?
and I get all the stuff from RB ,except the ceramic bearings and the clips，the nova clips is it match for use？

Yes

RB instructions will tell your over 30% to put the .1mm head shim in....I have had 5 C6's and never put the shim in, 10 gallons on all of them. I am doing the shim on the B9, seems to tune a little better, but I only have 2.5 gallons on it right now.

Hudy break in bench is best for me, controlled enviroment and all that. I heat to 200, cover the head with a cover/sock/foil etc. I run my first tanks at 1/2 throttle and 1-2 hrs rich......then just an hr. rich for the next 6-8 tanks. RB's take atleast a gallon and sometime 2 to be right. I break in a ton of motors for my friends and this works best, never have had to replace the rods, I believe it is due to my break in method.

Running a motor cold and bloody rich puts way to much stress on the rod. I know some will disagree with me, but I have gotten great results and will nevere change no matter what anyone says. I hear guys at the track that run their motors 200 and under thinking running it rich is helping the motor to last longer, the materials in these mills are designed to run at a certain heat range, it may be 230-260 for RB's, but under that during racing is only hurting the motor. As long as the motor is in good tune, I do not worry about temp, it is just always atleast 230 with a RB.

This all based on my results and my opinions, but it does work and all my and my buddies motors run strong and 10 plus gallons.

Good Luck, hope this helps.

I have an RB C6 what are the factory carb settings

Factory settings are 5 turns out on the LSN and 3 1/2 turns out on the HSN. I usually always find those too rich so I try to start with 4 3/4 turns on the LSN, and 3 1/4 on the HSN. Before you turn the LSN all the way closed to count out the turns make sure the throttle is open, if you close the LSN all the way with the carb at idle position you could damage the LSN.

RB motors run like to run richer on the bottom what temp are you running the motors

I never add the extra head shim in my engines when running 30% either. They recommend that if oyu run at sea level and use 30% to add the shim to be safe. The best thing to do is just check the top of the piston for pitting from time to time, if you see pits you may want to add the head shim. There are a ton of things that factor into the head shim game so just be safe and check from time to time.

I also agree with the Hudy break in bench. I don't like to run my engines super rich either as I also think that is extra stress. The key is heat cycle so always preheat and always run the engine at 200+ degrees. After break in try to get the engine on the track as much as possible on practice days and just run tank after tank thru it. You will notice the more you run the faster it gets and the cooler it runs. The best way to know your engine is ready to race is to stop the engine after running it for quite some time, while the engine is at full operating temp turn the flywheel over by hand and you should not feel any metal pinch when at full temp. The engine will have metal pinch when it's cold for 2 gallons or more, this is why you should always pre heat the engine before starting it. If you are forcing the engine past the tight spot in the stroke you are creating A LOT of stress on the con rod bushings.

KalGard I completely agree that preheating these and fully breaking them in will help them last a long time. I have WS7's that I pre heated EVERY time I started them for a good 3 gallons, both have the original rods and bearings and one is at 9 gallons and the other is at 15 gallons. I think with the new Comp Engine Heater I have this years engines will be old technology before they wear out.

That is actually a myth that has been carried around since the square stroke engines like the S7, S5 WS7's. Those engines were not known for having a violent bottom end so people were tuning them in all kinds of random ways to try to get more bottom end out of them. Generally people ran the HSN soo lean that they had to run the LSN a little richer. In reality people should have been changing gearing in the cars to fit the power band of the engine.

I tune my C6/B9's to have a very crisp bottom end, if you run the LSN too rich your going to have flame outs after refuels. Generally when I have a good race tune on the engine my LSN is just about flush, this is normally right about 4.5 turns, maybe a little richer. Tune the HSN just like normal so that you have good smoke and good top speed. I always run my engines between 220-250 depending how hot it is outside.

:nod::nod::nod:
very helpful

I tune my bottom end with the pinch test so i try to get it pretty close to being snappy but i notice they run hot cause I also run ninja motors and they run alot cooler and that's what im use to but if im getting smoke running the rb at 240-250 then i'll be good

I have never been a fan of the pinch test but it will get you in the ball park. One key thing to watch for on the LSN is if you start to develop a slight bog out of corners once the engine gets fully up to temp, if it felt good to start then went soft when warm your LSN is too lean. If it always feels like it's loaded up and puffs out a lot of smoke before it really takes off it is rich.

Another thing, if you are used to a Ninja the C6 is not going to be as violent on the bottom end, especially in a truggy. You probably need to run a different clutch setup for the RB than you ran for the Ninja.

thanks a lot, very useful. will break it in on my hudy branch.
I has email RB to aks about the Shims, the answer is "don't need do anything can use it this way with 33% nitro".

about the pin clips, maybe any other brand or not? because I don't know from where to get them, the dealers which I got the engine, they don't have this, and very possible for a long time they will not get this.

looks like I was made something wrong. I was run my old GO 3PT always between 260-280......

The Novarossi and RB wrist pin clips looks to be the same. Get the Novas and just be careful when removing the old ones so you can compare. If need be you can re-use the clips, I have done this several times. Just make sure the clip is seated down in the groove real good, you don't want those coming out in the engine.

I agree with the other guys....it is a myth that the LSN needs to be rich. It is the easiest way to tune it (running bottom rich) but that has ALWAYS with my motors ended up being the top was lean. It is tricky, but once you tune these enough, you have to fight riching the bottom. If you do not tune it right, you will never see the full potential of these motors........

Good Luck

Not sure where some of you are, but I race all over the mid-west and south and would be happy to help. I see it all the time, I am trying to help someone right now....but he is stubborn:lol::lol: and won't listen!!!

Another note, like it was stated before, if there is any "metal pinch" you have to run the idle a little high until it goes away. It will cause "ghost flame outs" due to the pinch when the motor cools just enough and the pinch will kill the motor, so keep the idle up a little until the pinch is gone.