Anyone know if the S3 L2G runs well with a Dyn 086 pipe? I know the 3 port Nova does and thought the S3 might be similar. I don't have the 2045 pipe I've seen recommended for the engine. I need to go through my pipes, but I have a couple of old RB's and I think one of them is similar to the 2045 (2020 maybe?). Thanks.

The 086 pipe is good for most all engines, just kinda an all around pipe, the 2045 works well with the RB engines best, the best fuel economy also, IMO, the 2020 will work well, but it is mostly a bottom end pipe, works well on shorter tracks, header for the RB pipes make a difference also, the 192 header is top end, the 198 header is bottom end.

I just took the main needle assembly apart to see what you mean. If I'm understanding correctly, you're talking about the two metal gaskets that sit between the fuel inlet piece and the needle housing, and between the inlet piece and the carb barrel? I fiddled with it and it seems as though the gaskets actually thread onto the needle housing and if not adjusted correctly, could leave a gap between the inlet piece and gaskets causing a leak.

Am I on the right track here?


I don't recall ever taking it apart, but it certainly seems a possibility for the source of my leak. Especially considering the amount of fuel there was under the engine mounts.

I think I've got it adjusted so there's no possibility for a leak from the inlet now. Should I reassemble and reinstall my engine and try it out, see if my problem is solved?

Yes, it is a pretty common problem if you turn the fuel inlet. It looks like a front bearing is leaking, but since the inlet is right over the bearing this can be missed. Those little washers can be filed smooth again or get new ones. After reassembling put some of that black airseal stuff all the way around those two areas.

What is a good pipe for the RB WS7??

JP4 is a great pipe

My JP-3 is only getting 6 1/2 min. a tank, and my JP-1 is about 7 1/2.
That's with a 8mm carb restrictor and running at 235-240*
I am selling them and getting a RB2045 with a 192 header, from what I have heard that will get me over 10min a tank and run about 225* with the same needle settings!
IMO a JP-4 on a WS7II would not have any bottom end!

I don't think the JP-4 would kill the bottom end of the WS7.

It already has tons on its own and would just calm it down a little and give you more top. Depending on the track size the JP-4 can be a great pipe and helps with fuel mileage as well.

Anyone know if the L2G head from a s5 will fit on old head c6bb?

hi,
i'm thinking of switching to 16% nitro for my ws7 and c6, anyone tried?
i gotta remove 0.1mm head shim right?

seems like nobody uses 16% for .21 and above engines, any reasons?

any one run the c6 on a truggy if so how is it

I got my c6 usa broke in.It toke a while and last i was at the track i started to race tune it.Im running it with the jp4 and the thing runs like a raped ape but im thinking the jp4 may be hurting it more then anything.Does anyone know if i can/should run the jp4 manifold with the rb 2045 or is there anymore recomendations?
Thanks

2045 with 192 will be your best bet for the c6.

Not as much power, hotter temps than 20 and 30%. These engines can easily handle 30% fuel.

What kind of run times are you starting to get with your USA? Buggy or truggy? I know its still new but......