R/C Tech Forums - RB Concept Engine Thread..

Try to heat it up to 200 before starting it. Once you have it going even for the first few tanks try to always keep the temp up over 200 degrees. After the initial 5 or 6 tanks you may notice the temps getting up around 240 ish even when kind of rich... That is fine!! If it starts creeping up to 250+ you will want to richen it up a bit.

+1, but why the richen it up if it reaches 250. If this is during break in than fine. But if not, nitro motors are NOT BUILT TO RUN AT A SET TEMP. THEY ARE BUILT TO RUN AT A SPECIFIC AIR/FUEL RATIO. If that means that your temp is at 280 then leave it, don't richen it out to get a "safe" temp because you won't be getting everything you can out of your motor. Mine runs its best at 265-270.

Jupe-21

05-17-2011 09:41 PM

ok thanks for all your help guys. Oh and will this be fine for run in. just 2 half tank intervals at idle keeping at 200 then between tanks cooling for a few hours at bdc then after that slowly driving it around increasing amount of revs each tank while still letting cool between tanks and heating before starting it?

PS know of any online rc sites that sell a temp gun?. i will try amain.
thanks

Chris Peralta

05-18-2011 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jupe-21 (Post 9128033)

That breakin will work out just fine for you. Really it's whatever is easiest for you to be able to heat cycle the engine and thats what will happen with your described method. Keep the temps up around 200 and you will save a lot of wear and tear on the rod.

When I used to breakin my RB's without pre heating I always had to replaced the rod at the 3-4 gallon mark. Now that I preheat I run the same rod for the life of the engine.

Jupe-21

05-18-2011 01:47 PM

Alrite, just when you say 200 are you talking farenheit because im degrees over here? :lol:
Thanks

Chris Peralta

05-18-2011 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jupe-21 (Post 9131250)

Alrite, just when you say 200 are you talking farenheit because im degrees over here? :lol:
Thanks

Yes I was referring to Fahrenheit, sorry. Look for 95 Degrees Celsius as a number to preheat, and keep temps over that as well.

jk1152

05-18-2011 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick411 (Post 9125366)

That is only the case because they don't maintain the bearings the way they are supposed to. I have an MBX6 and lube the bearings after every other race day but i clean them out with WD40 after each race day through the holes in the hub carriers. I have timed my drive train after a quick rev of the motor and shut it off and it literally spins for 45+sec with the stock bearings.

But anyway, I have the Shark 10 which is practically the B11, with the 2045 pipe and can do 11:30 pit stops.

45 seconds :rolleyes:

Jupe-21

05-18-2011 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Peralta (Post 9131297)

Yes I was referring to Fahrenheit, sorry. Look for 95 Degrees Celsius as a number to preheat, and keep temps over that as well.

ok thanks chris you have been a great help. :cool:

NitroKiwi

05-22-2011 09:21 PM

I put the 2087 pipe on with the 7mm oval venturi this weekend. Header was the 198.

Run time went from 8:30 to 10mins on my WS9.

I found the low end a little tricky to tune with the oval venturi but it was worth it. Definitely recommend the combo.

Chris Peralta

05-23-2011 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NitroKiwi (Post 9150645)

I have been running the Oval venturis and 2087 as well and I really like the powerband in my engines with these. Tons of torque, better fuel economy, and very smooth and easy to drive!!

Chris Reilly

05-23-2011 10:32 AM

Is anyone looking for a nip 9863 pipe and header set? Long square header

bruins1873

05-23-2011 10:39 AM

hey guys.. i have been racing for a while now but i am thinking about switching motors and going to RB.. what is/are the popular racing enignes for a buggy.

Chris Peralta

05-24-2011 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bruins1873 (Post 9153027)

hey guys.. i have been racing for a while now but i am thinking about switching motors and going to RB.. what is/are the popular racing enignes for a buggy.

For buggy I suggest you go for the B11 or the X11. The B11 is going to have more overall power and for me has also seen better fuel mileage so far. Might just be that I push the X11 a little harder than I have to push the B11. Both are great and have plenty of power for a buggy. You should also get the RB 2087 pipe with it right off the bat, this pipe is a great all around pipe with good mileage and power.

Jupe-21

05-24-2011 10:50 PM

Hey guys, my new motor arrived today and i will be starting run in soon, but ui remember reading back in this thread something about the b11 and os plugs. Can i use OS plugs or do i have to buy rb plugs from america all the time? And would just a p4 or p5 be the go?
Thanks Mitch

Chris Peralta

05-25-2011 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jupe-21 (Post 9161765)

I do not recommend putting OS plugs in your RB. If you want to use an alternate I would go for the O'donnell plugs. The OS plugs have a different taper on them and don't fit quite as good. If you already put an OS in it you are going to have to keep using OS plugs or get a new head button as there is a good chance an RB or O'donnell will leak now.

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