What are the factory needle settings for a c6/b10

Hello Tix

The factory settings of your engine are:
Main needle: 3.5 turns out from closed
Bottom needle: 5 turns out from closed
Idle needle : 4 turns out from closed

These are just factory settings, and the final tuning will of course depend on the fuel, the plug, the clutch etc.

Also on the LSN and Idle screw make sure you have the throttle opened up ALL the way before you screw them all the way in. If you screw the LSN all the way in with the throttle slide closed you could very well damage the needle.

+1 On my shark 10 the factory settings were about 1.5 turns too rich on all needles to even start. With my fuel, plug, cluch and driving style i'm getting 13min on a tank :nod: and my track is like the Neo11 track.

thanks reno and chris
it been a long time since i rebuilt one of these rather than buying a new one

lowrider4life
 

hey guy lookin 4 a little advise.
will a orion 2013 or aplus 0801 pipes work ok on a RB shark-9 motor,

thanks,
carlton,

The 2013 will work pretty well on your Shark! Not sure about the 0801, give it a try and let us know what you think.

Hi, my old sirio evo4 was dead. I used 33% meccamo run my buggy, can I just use it to break-in my new B10 and B11?

Some people prefer to use 20%, but in my opinion it's not necessary. As long as you run it very very rich for break it in, the nitro percentage doesn't really mater, only the oil percentage will help you. So no problem with you meccamo.
Enjoy your new ride!

ok, there might be a problem with my rb s5 with the lg2 head well i got in broken in by a engine guy last year and this is my second season.

running, it i dont run every weekend im on my second gallon and it has enough "compression" it has lost its "tight pinch" on it but i still has enough pinch though i just checked it out today and it has a tick of play on the crankshaft already.

and, when i took my cooling head off and turned the flywheel where the "piston is up" i notice back and forth play im guessing that the bushing in the rod is shot already i dont feel it with the cooling head and the glow plug in though.

and also when i move the flywheel it feels easy to turn the piston up ?

it will tune still but not easy though.

im running 20% race blead ebmods fuel.

i never ran it to lean there was always a good amount of smoke :confused:

anybody know ?

What is needed to change from turbo plug to std plug on the Killer 10 engines??? just a button or a whole new head???

Hello tc5 man

Concerning your engine, you should have enough pinch and no play in the conrod after such small tracktime. Did you check your air filter? Maybe it eat dust... The best way to check it, is to pull the engine apart, and check the crankshaft. If it's all scratched (like you would use direct sandpaper on it) at the admission, the engine ate dust from the filter or the fuel, and it doesn't sound good... If not, check the crankshaft pin : if it's over 4.98mm you can still use your engine. If not, you will have too much play and probably break the conrod.

Feel free to contact us anytime

Hello dan-o

Why do you want to use a std plug??? You will get better fuel mileage, better performances, more RPM etc with a turbo plug!!!
You should maybe try RB N°5 plugs to open the tuning window if it's too hard to get the proper tuning, but I don't recommend to go back to a std button head!
If not, you can just change the combustion chamber to a std one.

Reno-

Thanks for the advice, I have been out of the hobby for a bit but always loved the way my S7 always ran back 6-7 years ago. I will take your advice on sticking with the turbo plug.