Quick question what is the most powerful RB .12turbo engine with a Std. crank? The V12 000420? Thanks

New tune pipe 2087?
 

Hey guys and gals has anyone got the new tunepipe i think its the 2087 and if so hav ya seen any improvement in fuel econamy and will it give any of the older engines more econamy like the C5 C6 shark9.
Cheers for any feedback

Jamie

if anyone looking for new B9 with used 2045 pipe. $300 shipped
[email protected]
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93...m/a44f619c.jpg

These things are AMAZING!!!!!!

I noticed a bit of increase in torque, but it is so much smoother and run time did increase slightly (7.5min-ish to 8min on a break in tune). I am never going back to the normal ones EVER!!!!

In my mind, the best new innovation since the silicone filled crank. :nod:

So as i was doing some post practice day maintenance, i noticed that the air inlet tube was torn, so i took it apart and there was a bit of dirt on the ventury, i opened the motor up and there was a small amount of what seemed to be like sludge on the piston, so i cleaned it out with motor spray and everything seemed fine until i checked the pinch, i can turn the motor over by hand but there is still some pinch, the worrying thing is that this motor is only about 3/4 of a gallon old.:cry::cry::cry:

Is this motor ruined or is it still good?:confused:

I would say yeah. It only takes a small amount of debris to ruin a piston and sleeve. Once u run it and get it up to temp u will notice the tune will be off and it will run hot.

But that's the not so worrying part about it, i have to idea when in the day it happened and it was idling fine and holding the tune all day long with no problems.

A worn out piston and sleeve will usually run fine when first started but will not want to idle or have any torque when at temp. If it runs fine...don't worry about it.

I took it apart cleaned it, put it back together and idled it for a 1/4 tank and everything is looking fine, but the real test will be tomorrow to see if it holds a tune when i'm at the track. I'm pretty sure it will be fine cause the idling was so smooth that all that probably happened was the brake in process was speeded up :lol: But the rear bearing did look like it had seen better days so i am ordering a new one for good measure, i'd rather replace it early that have it blow.

Did you pull the engine all the way apart? As in remove the carb and crankshaft and everything from the block? Tear it down like that and flush it our with some fuel, blow it out wiht a compressor, and flush with fuel again. That fine dust gets in places you would not imagine, and if you go and run it tomorow with some debris still in there you could finish off the engine for good.

After you flush it all out hold the block to your ear and turn the bearings with your finger, if it sounds crunchy or gritty you may not want to run too much. You can pull the bearings out and clean them up, but best to replace them.

I seem to get about 30-45 seconds more run time with the 2087 over the 2045. I like the power of it more too, it seems to make more torque but is still very very smooth.

Yes i did pull it all the way apart, but i used soapy water, brake cleaner, compresed air and WD40. The front bearing is still like new but the rear looked and felt like it would only last about another gallon or so, so i have a rear on order, should be here in a week or 2.

Thanx chris so it is better and i geuss with the better power band you could get even more eco depending on driving style.Which engine were you using it on as im told it works best with the B11 cheers.

jamie

Is this for buggy or truggy. Also what header

I have only ran it in buggy so far, and with the 192 header. I have one to run in my truck so I will try that next weekend with the 198 header to start.