I don't believe you understand what Uriah meant. It won't be a B9/B10 crank when he's done with it. I've never seen an RB run like a Murnan modded one. Trust me. Now i hafta run mine sat, can't stand it anymore.

how much difference is there between the 1164-14B and the 1164-14B/R crankshaft

I can see that is missing the counter weight and coating, but are the intake and turbo cuts the same?

http://www.mst-modellbau.de/motoren-...prod_2644.html

1164-14B is a designed offroad crankshaft that has a tungsten weight in it, that is all that is done to that crankshaft from a standard C6 crank.

1164-14R also has the weight in it and like you mentioned it has the coating on it but the opening on the crankshaft for fuel entry is opened up a lot, it is an onroad crankshaft so it's open sooner and stays open longer. Also the middle of the crank that funnels the fuel to the turbo cuts is opened up more, the turbo cuts are also cut in deeper on the face of the crank. The timing of this crank makes the engine seem pretty violent but I love it in a truggy!!!

It looks like the site your looking at might be showing the wrong pic with the part number. Look at the last two on this page. http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...x=0&image2.y=0

C6 is a beast!
 

I just bought a slightly used C6 from a buddy for my XT8. The motor has less than a gallon on it, and it is a beast. The problem I have is that I keep burning up clutch bearings. I am running the Xray alum 3 shoe setup, and I feel that I have more than enough play on the clutch bell. I can't make it thru a race day without changing clutch bearings. Anybody have any good ideas??

so my question is. seeing you cant but these rody cranks anymore. would you buy this crank and open the turbo cuts and throat up more?

tko clutch bearings the best, get them.

Well the only thing on the engine that would cause clutch bearing issues would be the crankshaft being worn out where the clutch bearings ride. When you pull the clutch bearings off feel the end of the crankshaft, it should be nice and smooth. If there is only a gallon on the engine this really should not be the case tho. If you have a clutch that really slips a lot and gets really hot that will kill bearings. If your gear mesh is too tight that can also kill bearings with all the chassis flex.

I think that would be the best option if you have access to equipment to do it, or if you have a modder that does a lot of crank work like that. It's not a drastic mod it's just opened up quite bit.

I think those cranks might still be able to purchase but they are expensive really expensive.

Don, the Shark 9 looks killer......time to break it in tomorrow:sneaky::D

Pm me if you need any help or Chris P. is here to help too.

anyone run RB fuel, any feedback

do you know where?

Wher can we get RB fuel in Canada? Don, can you help us out on this one:D

I will find out tommorrow and get back to you I am sure that crank is around $250.00.....Expensive




Dwayne I would have to find out what LHS in Canada might be able to carry it. I cannot ship RB Fuel to Canada.